Roll cage installation guide - illustrated to help with MSA compliance

Should be fine - some have captive nuts welded to the underside of the floor plates as far as I can see. Do check this one though/get someone else to confirm.

All in here:

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163166

 

Be careful welding nylocs .. they`re not supposed to be used near hot surfaces.

 

He mentions non-nyloc above.

 

Well spotted

 

hopefully you can help, im currently fitting a 6 point s/d cage in my mk1 ready for this years sprints, the bottom pads sit on the floor like this (pics used from page one)


i understand they can sit on the floor like so and dont need a 120mm x 120mm plate welded on the floor first and that the plate can sit on the underside like so

question is does this plate on the underside need to be welded as its not in the pic
only other slight problem is where the base sits the brake lines run directly underneath in the channely bit, do you recon it will be ok to keep these there inbetween the plate and the floor as there will still be a channel as such for them to go through , and on the otherside i belive there are fuel lines aswell, forgive me if i sound stupid but i need to find out
car will also have to be logbooked
cheers Tk

 

I would say in a big roll that would just rip straight through the floor.....

 

TK1 .. fyi

 

cheers for the pics but my cage is very different than yours, my pads on the bottom of the legs sit flat on the floor next to the sill instead of L shaped and over the sill, i know what im going to be doing now and weld plates on the floor (inside) and bolt through
cheers for the pics though always good to see people's installs, next problem is harness bolts for 5 point sabelt , but i'l look and ask in other threads

 

Could always shorten the legs a bit & put them like my fronts (not capped off yet):


Upper Plate goes up along sill as well.

Or have a large floor plate like mine but run it up the sill as well "L" shaped & sit your foot on that.

It will help to spread the load & take more impact.

 

mine sit like this, the hoop leg coming down hits the B pillar them bends in slightly and sits on the floor, i think i will just weld plates to the floor and boly through with washers on the underside, (sorry for poor quality pic)

 

If you do try to get the plate to come up the 2 corner sides a bit if you can to give it some extra strength.

 

Fantastic info in here !

 

The essence of Club GTI

 

Interesting pic of a BMW 3-series WTCC cage installation. We don't normally get the in-process pics, just before & after. The nearest side is in on a bungee, and an entire side of this cage is preconstructed, waiting to be turned into position:



Possibly they are done on a jig, off car beforehand?

Note absence of roof panel.

 

The sizing of that tube suggests T45 which has to be formed with minimal stress and then cooked to relieve it. It also has a limited lifespan, after 5 years I think the cage has to be binned

There's a video on custom cages showing some of the process - with my weld in cage, the main hoop and front and top sections were all mounted roughly where they needed to be, then the first half of the weld on the underside of the tube was made. We then cut holes in the floor to allow the whole assembly to drop down, then we welded the upper half of the welds on the top of the cage, raised the whole assembly up and fixed the holes we'd made, then slid the reinforcing plates under the tubes and welded them in and the tubes to them

http://www.customcages.co.uk/roll-cages/weld-in-fitting-guide

 

First I have heard about it having a 5 year lifespan. I would like to know your source for that?

 

There would need to be expiry dates on untamperable cage certs for this to work.

Is this a new thing?

 

I've bought the CL3 kit from custom cages for my mk2 rocco and plan on buying a length of CDS tube to build the door bars, rear diagonal, and the supports to the rear strut top/rear inner arches. (saving me some cash!)

Now, do i need a length of 45x2.5mm tube or can i use 38x2.5 for the rear diagonal, door bars, etc

 

See post 28 onwards on here.

A call into the MSA would be useful, just to make sure they rubber stamped the bars that can be of smaller diameter

 

Yep, will give them a shout, a few mates reckoned that the door bars, rear diagonal and rear supports could be made some 1.5" tube and the main hoops needed to be 2".
will update as i go.