As you say toyotec, in theory this is the ideal engine if you want to try & retain the rx8 handling. Nice & compact. Just been to the breakers, can get a low mileage AWT Engine, loom & ECU from a Passat for 150. That's about all he has in at the moment. Should I go for this or wait till one of the others come in? Cheers John
AWT. Hmm...What was the last digits of the ECU number. Should start 4B0 906 018 ** AWT has the ideal hardware as well as it is north south.
Ahhhh, forgot to get ECU number. I'lll go up first thing in the morning what numbers are idea & what numbers should I avoid? It's like learning all over again. Know old ford stuff like the back of my hand. But I'm enjoying it. Cheers John
Thanks toyotec, will have a good read at that tonight. So what I'm looking for is a me7.5 ECU, engine to suit & loom. I've to go meet with the guy that ownes the breakers in the morning. Plan was always to rebuild an engine for future power mods any way, so could just keep the engine I have to do that. Cheers John
AjVR, sorry missed your post. Plan for the clutch & flywheel is still in the balance at the moment. Have the RX8 fly away to get some machine work done, to see if it could be used. Just a starting point for you, if the input shaft is the same as the rx8. A pinto/Cosworth spigot bearing fits the input & VW crank perfectly, also the pinto & Cosworth clutches have the same spline pattern. Nige, Martin never finished his. As far as I know, they don't build cars anymore & just concentrate on selling parts. He was trying to do it so you could buy an off the shelf conversion kit too. As far as going stand alone ECU, I've kind of made a rod for my own back with this one. After a few big arguments. Starts like, why you not just rebuilding the rotary, no other engine should be in an rx8. To why are you using that engine they are sh***, should but 1jz/2jz or ls1 in it. I've said I can do the conversion for lest than a rotory rebuild. They are around 2500 for a proper one. So want to prove a point. Cheers John Cheers John
Yup ME 7.5 ECU and loom + plus the sensors and consumers. Never understood why Mazda produced the RX8 after the cracking FD3S RX7.
I know, rx8 never lived up to the rx7. Awesome handeling car, just not enough grunt on track. ECU code I can get from the Passat is 4B0906018cg. Cheers John
Guys, really need your help. Now I have the engine in place, I can turn my attention to the loom while I wait on my flywheel. As you know, I managed to get the loom, engine & ecu from an AWT Passat with the me7.5. This is the loom I now have. Problem I'm having is, none of my plugs match any thread I can find. What I was expecting. What I've got. Also I don't have a 14 pin main loom connector. This is what I have. Orange plug Pin 1- red/green (thick) 2- empty 3- empty 4- black/blue 5- black/blue (thick) 6- empty 7- empty 8- green/yellow (thick) 9- empty 10- empty Black plug 1- blue 2- empty 3- white/grey 4- red (thick) 5- black/brown 6- empty 7- blue/yellow 8- red/blue 9- blue/brown 10- brown/red Brown plug 1- green/black 2- empty 3- white/blue 4- red/black (thick) 5- black/blue (thick) 6- empty 7- empty 8- black/red 9- blue/purple 10- empty. These plugs I can't get all PIN numbers, it's like 2 plugs in 1. Edit found pin numbers Red plug Pin 1- blue/red 2- empty 3- empty Other part of plug has 1-Green/brown 2-Black/yellow 3-Black/grey 4- empty 5- empty 6- empty 7- empty 8- empty 9- empty 10- empty 11- empty 12- empty 13- empty 14-Orange/brown 15-Orange/black White plug Pin 1- empty 2- red/grey (thick) 3- red (thick) Other part of plug (think some of these are the throttle pedal wires normally in the blue plug) 1-Yellow/blue 2-Yellow/purple 3-Brown/red 4-Grey/yellow 5-grey 6-brown/green 7-empty 8-empty 9-empty 10-empty 11-red/black 12-red/purple 13-red/green 14-empty 15-empty Sorry to be a pain guys, but any help you can give me sort this out would be great. Cheers John
EDITED THINK I HAVE SOME OF THEM WORKED OUT Sat, read through some of jubjonnys files & found this one 3b2apuanbecu.pds Couldn't find one for the AWT engine. I'm still missing some wires & I'm hoping someone will double check I have this correct. ORANGE T10e Pin 1- red/green - coil feed 4- black/blue - clutch switch/cruise control brake switch 5- black/blue - injectors feed 8 - green/yellow - ignition live for sensors including lambda. BROWN T10d 1- green/black - ????????? 3- white/blue - odometer display 4- red/black - starter 5- black/blue - revers light switch 8- black/red - 9- blue/purple - 8&9 are oil level/oil temp BLACK T10b 1- blue - battery light 3- white/grey - oil pressure switch 4- red - battery live 5- black/brown - fuel gauge 7- blue/yellow - coolant level 8- red/blue - fuel pump relay 9- blue/brown - coolant temp sensor 10 - brown/red - speed sender WHITE T3e 3pin 2- red/grey - ???????? 3- red - secondary air pump WHITE T15a 15pin 1- yellow/blue - accelerator pedal 2- yellow/purple - accelerator pedal 3- brown/red - accelerator pedal 4- grey/yellow - accelerator pedal 5- grey - accelerator pedal 6- brown/green - accelerator pedal 11- red/black - ????????? 12- red/purple -????????? 13- red/green - ?????????? RED 3pin can't find this plug on diagram 1- blue/red - ??????????? RED T15s 15pin 1- green/brown - abs withedl control 2- black/yellow - rear heated window switch 3- black/grey - climatronic control/air con cut off 14- orange/brown - can bus - wire to bag com port 15- orange/black - can bus - wire to bag com port. Cheers John
uploaded a couple for you. 3b2aptargecu.pdf which is the closest I could get for a passat ecu as the AWT ecu diagram is missing from the passat section, but hopefully it still helps. I also uploaded Audi 84 AWT diagram 8d2awtecu.pdf which is next best thing to a passat diagram though, its probably pretty much the same
Thank again John, this is what I've worked out from them. I'm still missing a couple of wires, if anyone can fill in the blanks that would be great. ORANGE T10e 1- Red/green- ECU supply relay - wire to ignition live (live when cranking) 4- black/blue - clutch/cruise brake switch - wire tape up behind dash 5- black/blue - injector feed - wire to ignition live 8- green/yellow- feed for engine sensors - wire to ignition live BROWN T10d 1- green/black - k line - wire vag com port 3- white/blue - display controls unit - BIN 4- red/black - starter - BIN use rx8 starter loom 5- black/blue - revers - BIN use rx8 loom 8- black/red - oil level/temp BIN 9 - blue/grey - oil level/temp BIN BLACK T10b 1- blue - battery light - BIN use rx8 loom 3 - white/grey - oil pressure - BIN use rx8 switch & loom or aftermarket gauge 4 - red - live - wire to permanent live 5 - black/brown - fuel gauge - BIN use rx8 loom 7- blue/yellow - coolant low sender - BIN 8 - red/blue - fuel pump relay can I BIN & use rx8 to run its own pump? 9 - blue/brown - coolant temp - BIN try & use rx8 sender & loom 10 - brown/red - speedo sender - BIN RED 3pin T3s 1- blue/red- need some help with this one plz RED 15pin T15s 1- green/brown - need some help with this one plz 2- black/yellow - climatronic control BIN 3- black/grey - climatronic control BIN 14- orange/brown - can bus - wire to vag com port 15- orange/brown - can bus - wire to bag com port WHITE 3pin T3a 2- red/grey - ECU supply relay - ignition live 3 - red - secondary air pump relay - can I BIN this or does it feed other things WHITE 15pin T15a 1- yellow/blue - accelerator pedal - wire to pedal 2- yellow/purple - accelerator pedal - wire to pedal 3- brown/ red -accelerator pedal - wire to pedal 4- grey/yellow -accelerator pedal - wire to pedal 5- grey -accelerator pedal - wire to pedal 6- brown/green -accelerator pedal - wire to pedal 11- red/black - brake light switch- wire leave behind dash 12- red/green - cruise brake switch - wire leave behind dash 13- red/yellow - clutch switch - wire leave behind dash. Am I on the right track? Cheers john
ORANGE T10e On my diagram I see the sensor ignition feed to pin 8, not pin 6? page 9 in the 3b2aptargecu.pdf? BROWN T10d (t10a in the A4 diagram) 1- green/black - 8d2awtecu.pdf page 9 or 3b2aptargecu.pdf, ecu pin 43 -> diagnostics port K-line BLACK T10b 5 - this one is a common earth for the speedo, level sensor and dash temp sensor, which goes back to the passat dash cluster common earth. need to earth this one if you plan to re-use the passat temp sensor, speedo or coolant level sender, but as you are not then it can go 8 - this one is an earth trigger, try to re-use this to trigger your rx8 fuel relay as then your ecu will have full control over the fuel pump. how to do this I'm unsure as I dont know how the rx8 system works? RED 3pin T3s (t3au in the a4 diagram) 1- blue/red- cant see it anywhere, chase it into the loom see if you can find the other end? easier said than done if it goes in the solid foam block. a multimeter and probe to various bits n bobs should hopefully help you track it down. as its not in the ecu diagram chances are its not engine related and can be ignored RED 15pin T15s (T15m in the A4 diagram) 1- green/brown - 8d2awtecu.pdf page 4, ecu pin 74 = no function WHITE 3pin T3a 3 - yes bin this if you're deleting all the SAI system
Sorry John, the Orange plug was a typo. Thanks again for finding the wires I couldn't, was giving myself a sore head. Also thanks for checking over my wiring. That's good that everything looks ok. I can start on the loom & get this moving. It's going to put a few noises out of joint. Cheers John
Now that I have the loom just about cleaned up from all the foam. What a nightmare that was. Should I still be able to split this loom into 2 parts the same as the golf loom? Cheers John
iirc the passat ones are all 1 big lump, there is nothing to stop you modifying it to be like a golf loom though if you need to for your build
PLEASE HELP AGAIN Finally got my ECU back today, but can't get a spark or injectors to fire. I have these wires connected. Orange T10e 1- connected to battery positive 5- connected to battery positive 8- connected to battery positive Black T10b 4- connected to battery positive 5- connected to battery negative 8- connected to battery negative White 3pin T3a 2- connected to battery positive Have the earth from the loom connected to the battery negative & the connection on the cam cover connected to battery negative. I'm getting a 12v feed at coils & injectors. I'm getting no voltage at cam sensor or crank sensor. Am I right in thinking I should have 5v at both of them? Suppose my main question is, what does the immobiliser cut out? Is it the feed to the crank & can sensors? A bit frustrated after waiting so long to get ECU back.
