Seat sub frames?.

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by KeithMac, Aug 18, 2023.

  1. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    Hello all, into the interior now with my MK2 Restoration.

    I've been stripping my seat subframes and they look bent?.

    Believe these were Corbeau frames but could be wrong?.

    Before I straighten them up can anyone think of a reason why they may be that shape?, I'm sure my seat runners are flat.

    Was going to straighten them out and possibly reinforce them before painting.

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  2. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    They look like something I’ve made in my shed! Can’t help with the straightness issue though. Although I’m going to say they should probably be straight.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2023
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  3. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    Frames I made for my BMW. Mr Corbeau should be ashamed of himself. Sorry still can’t help with the issue [:$] IMG_0531.jpeg
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  4. daNpy Forum Member

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    To be honest they don't look too sturdy to me. A L-profile on the sides would help a lot.
     
  5. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    I had 20mm spacers all round, might straighten them all out and welded some 25mm box section to the top..

    As said I was a bit disappointed when taking the paint off to see the welding etc, they weren't cheap either iirc..
     
  6. daNpy Forum Member

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    Why don't you just make em like this:
    [​IMG]

    It's supposed to be a track car, right? I have something similar.
     
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  7. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    Seat bases are silly money for what they are, especially when they are probably made in China.
     
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  8. daNpy Forum Member

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    I don't disagree with that but they are part of your safety.
    Sandtler used to heave neat steel plates with slotted holes which could be welded to the bottom of your car for lowest seating , but I can't find them anymore on their site.
    I also used tubes of 30x30x3 mm which are welded in the car on reinforcement plates with the specified cm2 from the FIA manual.
     
  9. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    Yes, box section is the way forward, I'm not really worried about what it weighs.
     
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  10. theboysmiffy

    theboysmiffy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Do these slide into the existing channels?
     
  11. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    You wouldn't get the seat far enough forward with those, I'm only 5'10..

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  12. daNpy Forum Member

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    ,
    Slide? They're supposed to be welded on the sill and tunnel. Preferably with bigger plates.

    On these you can mount sliding frames. I've got that for the driver side.
     
  13. daNpy Forum Member

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    Yeah you have to remove the ridiculous original front seat attachment there.
     
  14. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    I've chopped enough out already, sick of welding by now lol .

    If I modify my subframes at least it can go back to standard seats at some point (unlikely though).
     
  15. daNpy Forum Member

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    I can understand, but when I first saw the original seat mounting, I thought nothing but "that's unsafe"
     
  16. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    The VW 3 mounts or my subframes?.

    I could remove them and welded in some box section down both sides I suppose.

    I've listed the seats and frames for insurance so I don't know what they would make of chopping the OEM mounts out?.

    I've got a mate who's going to cut me some heavy duty 30mm box section for now to repair the Corbeau frames.

    I've been stripping all the Bitumen off the floors tonight back to bare metal so I suppose now's the time to weld runners in..
     
  17. daNpy Forum Member

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    The VW 3 point mounting of course ;)
     
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  18. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    Managed to strip the bitumen out (what a job that was!) and Epoxy Prime my floor.

    Think I'll modify the frames to fit in 4 corners to the floor but keep the OEM floor brace / front seat mount.

    Never gave it much thought 20 years back when I fitted them but it is a bit of a p1ss poor design!.

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  19. daNpy Forum Member

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    Yeah the bitumen is some work to remove.
    The parts on the floor you can bust out with a prybar when cold. On the tunnel you need to heat it and then remove it with a putty knife.
     
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  20. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    I did hot air gun and scraper for the floor, then wire wheel, then thinners and rags.

    Had a good look round the transmission tunnel and decided to leave that on.

    Main reason for doing the floor was it had all cracked and water had been sitting underneath parts of it.

    At least if I have a leak now it won't get under the Epoxy.
     
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