Split: Why doesnt drunkenalan's car make more power!!! little bump

Yes I completely forgot they were different cc

With that in mind, maybe it won't be able to reach the predicted 6000rpm peak

One to watch as time goes on & background improvements are being made

 

would the 56cc make that much difference? or do you guys think the extra crank throw is the cause?

 

No that difference in delivery point of peak power for a 56cc difference is a little much...I would estimate that if you acheived the same peak power it would be acheived approx 200rpm lower due to the capacity increase....but it is not an exact science.

 

from the manifold design thread

 

In order to tidy this thread I have removed a number of posts. These posts basically stemmed from a particular post or two that were written in a tone that I deem far, far too prickly. Do NOT contact any of the staff or pursue the matter here if you are unhappy about any posts being deleted. The matter IS closed. This was a last resort taken by me because a polite request for the original poster(s) to amend their posts was declined.

 

ok

after a long time, i thought i would throw in some more info.

since the original posts and that RR day, i have upgraded the exhaust to a 2 inch Jetex system , which made the feel a bit stronger on the bum dyno, but made no difference to the top end. rechecked that cam timing twice!! and swept the cam thro the range of the vernier. it only made the noise increase and the power go off.

i made a larger plenum manfold but i couldnt get it all to fit so cut it up and then lost interest!

so not much has changed, it came off the road in may, and was a statue on the drive, till october, i took it for a track day at mallory and it performed effortlessly.

so i have given up on the car and im giving it a final send off, the car has about 3 weeks left before the MOT runs out and i start breaking it up!!

However since realising that its coming apart soon, and that the Bora does everything i need, i have given it a good thrashing everywhere it goes.

and over the last week i have noticed an interesting trait, when the car is warming up and is still registering cold, it pops and farts thro the problem area, it still pulls through the range, but there is popping and coughing in the exhaust, and power drops away.

so im running out of time and i have to get rid. i have a 4-1 exhaust but i doubt ill get time to fit it but im wondering if a cam swap might be a last stab at it.

 

Why not keep it? You have a sensible daily, so use it as a track toy. Strip it and tune it without the pressure of having to worry about keeping it on the road all the time... Looked like a nice tidy shell when I saw it!

 

too many doors and it needs a few minor welding jobs and i need the space for a few months!

 

Want a Mk1 rally shell instead? Well used but solid and strong

Chuck in your running gear and engine on carbs or ITBs and away you go!

 

Sell it to me for the original purchase price

 

I'd quickly stick a Newman 272 or 276 cam in and see if it makes a difference.
Seems you're so close to having a real belter of an engine....

 

maybe....

 

webuyanycar offered me a 12 pound profit on the car shaz sorry!!

 

i have a brand new 272 sat here, but the mapping would be miles off, if i could find something in the region of a 285, i would give it a go.

 

I'll top them by 1!

 

Don't do it.

If you want to borrow a bigger bore 16v jetex to eliminate that then mines available. It has a 8v downpipe adaptor on it already. Just say if you want to give it a go.

If you do break it (which you shouldn't) I might be interested in a few things, especially the airbox.

 

I've been playing with a Mk2 that was reluctant to give up more power as well Alan...Jetex has helped in the equation here too...report coming soon...there's decent power locked up in poor shiny exhausts.

Worth a try with the cam Alan...

 

Shame to see the possible death of this thread, just read it all and found it very interesting! i have a very similar spec'd engine, AGG block, tsr pack c, schrick 288, verner, ashley 4-1 to a 2" powerflow and have made a similar power on standard digi, 134bhp, 138 ftlb which i was also disapointed with when looking at other peoples figures (i know there irrelevant due to different rollers but still) The cam has always been a niggle in my mind too nd this thread has only encouraged that now, mine defiantly sound more lumpy than yours i the start-up video though, whats yours like when up to temp?

 

As my database of the tested VW vehicles is growing at Garage Streamline, providing a credible pattern plots and referencing, an OE 2.0 (AGG) and ECU tuned OE 2.0(3A), achieves 115 - 120bhp @ 5400rpm and 124 -127lbft from 2000 - 3800 rpm.

Since Alan's car was tested, I have tested several vehicles, with a similar spec to what you described i.e. 2.0 tall block, cam'd with 272 etc and on digi2 and also found them to be average, achieving ~ between 125 to 130bhp@ 5800 rpm or so and 127-130lbft from 2500 - 3500rpm.
Regarding one of those vehicle with a cam and digi, went on to be fitted with an SEM ( like Alan's. This vehicle achieved 140+ bhp and a higher than stock torque range of 2500-4500 rpm. This vehicle had a stock GTI manifold and downpipe. Calibration unlocked the extra potential.
However non displayed the unique phenomena as Alan's, post 4K rpm and neither achieved the maximum level of torque that his 2.1 litre produced with the tuned 2.0 vehicle achieving a plateau of 135lbft vs Alan's max at 145lbft ( before the wobble).

Based on the picture I have just presented, Alan's car demonstrated a lot of promise until the torque started to wobble about at high engine speed. It would have been a challenge, I would have like to have seen completed, so the 8v I never completed .
TUBDUB, in your case, irrespective of the performance measurements and the most likely difference to what I see at Garage Streamline, the most restrictive component is the Digifant 2 ECU and total calibration. The fuel cal might be tweaked but the spark control is not. The both fuel and spark settings have to be optimised to achieve the best combustion in the engine. Once this is done you would feel a drive improvement and measure relatively similar to the engine examples I quoted, if such a car was to be tested on a dyno day, test session etc at GS.

Any question please feel free to ask or PM.