I have a 1985 MK1 Golf GTI Cabrio which has a problem starting. I have had the fuel filler pipe replaced, the fuel tank flushed, both fuel pumps and fuel filter replaced , plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm, cleaned air filter and checked for air leaks. I have also used an injector cleaner which I added to the fuel. But when I try to start from cold, it sounds as if it is only firing on a couple of cylinders and I have to keep spinning the engine to eventually get it to start. After running the engine to normal temperature it starts first time as if nothing is wrong. Can anyone help me find the cause of this problem and advise me of the cure. Many thanks dglad Edited by: dglad
I had a problem like this...I disconected the cold start injector. This is the blue switch at the end of the inlet manifold, for some reason it was over fueling when cold and would not start..it kept flooding itself. With it disconected it starts first time
Thanks PIPRX for your advice. Is that the connector at the left hand end of the manifold? and does the lead pull off from the blue switch or is there another point that can be disconnected.
It just pulls of from the blue connecter switch, just unplug the switch No sure if it will solve your problem but worth a try
dglad, What you described is exactly the same problem Ive been having for months. I also disconnected the cold start injector and it made absolutely no difference. I then took the plug out and when turning the ignition on a cold start did a voltage check and got volts coming OK to the unit. I then disconnected the injector from the manifold did a cold start and nothing came out so the problem is either with the cold start injector or the valve that lets fuel to the injector. I dont know if this is all sold as one unit or whether the valve/solenoid part can be take, cleaned and fixed. Any advise on how to progress from here would be great. REgards FergT
Hi FergT I have not yet tried the disconnection of the cold start injector, but I will keep you informed if I get a result. dglad
ive been having starting proplems like described, feels like its only firing on 2 cylinders, smell of fuel, but runs fine once started, i read this and unpluged the connection to my cold start valve, its improved the starting. what does this mean, was it blowing in to much fuel?
Id make sure the timing is spot on. Could also be the warm up regulator on the front of the block. Need a special vag guage to test this.
What does the warm up regulator do? How does it work.? I tested my cold start injector to find it not working. Power and fuel getting to it but no fuel being injected. Just got received the new one today so will get it tested over the weekend.
read the haynes or similar and all will be clear. cold start valve is irrelavant it will only come on between 2-10 seconds anyway. (unless its leaking, but you said it's fine once the car is warm) It is therefore either the warm up regulator or auxillary air valve. both of these tests are in the haynes or do a search on these.
Auxilliary air valve only helps the idle when cold and if the car won't start with a little throttle or idles OK when cold then this is not your problem. WUR reduces the fuel control pressure when cold which allows the air flow plate to sit higher for a given air flow and enrichens the mixture. The only way to test it is to connect a pressure gauge to the metering head to check the fuel control pressure. dglad. Sounds like you have a thermotime switch, cold start valve or leaking injector problem. Try disconnecting the CSV first and see if that helps. If it does, just leave it like that. They are waste of time in this climate. If you really want to fix it, make sure it is not leaking as below then check the voltage at the plug. As stated above you should get voltage for only a couple of seconds after you start cranking from cold, then nothing. If you get voltage for longer or with the engine hot, the thermotime switch is toast. Failing this, run the engine then remove the CSV leaving the fuel line connected and see if it drips. If it does, change it or remove it and blank the hole in the manifold. If not, pull all the injectors after a run and see if they drip. If so, change the duff ones. If all of this checks out OK and and you still have the problem, post again and we can give you a few electrical things to check. I guess your plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm etc are in decent nick ?
dglad, I replaced my cold start valve/injector at the weekend and I no longer have any starting problems. Tested it plenty over the weekend and it started first time when cold. You can get one for 80 from GSF (inc VAT & delivery), but I bought it from Maximum autoparts in the US. See weblink below. Dead easy to open and account, it arrived within two days. Cost around $100 total. http://www.maximumautoparts.com/ Good luck Happy Starter
