Right, because I'm a cretin my '89 GTi has been stood for long length of time. However recently I have been trying to get it started again, but have had no luck. Its recently had new: Spark Plugs Dizzy + Rotor Arm HT Leads Starter Motor Thermostat Battery I've also put a petrol can's worth of fuel in there because I was worried that the fuel may have gone south. I seem to have plenty of spark and the new starter motor has things turning over a lot more freely than before. However it just won't fire, completely refuses. Any ideas of what I should try next? I'd bump it but the brakes are seized and the tyres are flat. Some basic pointers would be really helpful because I'm a complete clot.
What is the most direct way of checking that? I'm assuming there is some sort of fuel hose running into the injection manifold at the top of the engine? Should I whip that off and see if fuel squirts out?
Best way is to pull the injectors out, put them in bottles / jars and crank the engine over for 10 seconds. You should get the same fuel out of each one
That's going to be difficult with a digifant mind. Check the plugs are wet after the engine has been turning. Also does the main pump prime when you turn the ignition on? You should hear it come on for a second or two when the ignition is turned on.
Took the plugs out to check the spark after cranking it over for a few tries and they stunk of fuel, bit nasty mind, which is why I put some new fuel in it. I've got a new fuel filter I could try fitting, if that would do the trick? I'll try and have a listen for the fuel pump whirring too, its by the passenger side rear wheel isn't it?
It appears to be priming, its making the right sort of noises, then a weird ish glugging noise. I whipped off the fuel hoses in the engine bay and they are bone dry, even when the engine is cranked over. Balls.
I'll fit the fuel filter and see if that makes any difference. I did have a look at relay 18 which I think is for the fuel pump and it seemed to be in good nick, but then again I've never seen a blown relay so I don't know what they'd look like. What difference would it make if I took the relay out and tried to crank it over?
You shouldn't have to crank it I would have thought? Just turn the key to the first position. With the IGN on, power is sent to the lift pump via its wiring through a switch within the relay itself, which is only closed/on when it receives power via the fusebox and IGN. I'm sure there is a fuse in this part of the schematic too! Removing the relay doesn't help with the test here, because if the lift pump is not operating (due to a defective relay) you have already, in effect, removed the relay! What you need to do is establish if the in-tank lift pump is working. Its located behind a circular plate in the boot. Is the resevoir dry? (The black container that houses the fuel pump under the car) There are a few pipes on it. The one that carries the supply of fuel from the lift pump and fuel tank to the resevoir is the one at the base of the resevoir on the same end as the pump. By removing this pipe you can rule out the fact that if the resevoir is empty, no fuel will run out of it. (Meaning it isn't being supplied, therefore lift pump or relevant components). By removing the circular plate, access is available to the lift pump. Disconnect the wiring harness to it. With a multimeter (if you have one) establish if you have 12 volts at the harness. IGN on. If not, the problem is either the fuse or the relay or associated wiring. Easiest way, is to just replace the relay, although they can be checked! If there is voltage, check the lift pump. Make up a few jump leads and connect 1 end of them to the lift pump terminals and the other to a 12volt source. You should hear it running. If you still have the pipe off underneath at the resevoir there should be an obvious puddle of fuel on the ground. (Avoided by placing a 'catch pan' below the removed pipe) A process of elimination really!
18 is the x-over relay, fuel pump relay is 67, 80 or 167. its not the relay or main pump wiring because you can hear it working! id say lift pump failure. easy way to tell is unplug the main pump then turn the key 1 click, you should hear the in-tank pump prime. if not either the wiring to it has broken or it is dead
I swapped the lift pump over today for a new one. The filter thing on the end was caked up with a soft rubbery dark crud like material. Tried to start it again but to no avail. I took two spark plugs out and the smelled like fuel, still cranks over well and that but it still refuses to fire up. Curiously, the fuel gauge is dead, although there is plenty of fuel in the tank. Any ideas?
if you unplug main pump and turn key 1 click can you hear the lifter? do the pumps prime or run continuous
When I turn the key one click the lift pump primes, but does not run continuously. Took the plug for the underbody fuel pump out and turned the engine over and got a 11v or so reading on my multimeter. I'm taking it that this means that pump is knackered?
ah so main pump isnt working? if not yeah it sounds like it is siezed. you can use either digi or k-jet main pump unit to replace it, if you go k-jet just remove all the pipes, filter and the accumulator. then buy an M12x1.5 banjo barbed adaptor off ebay for like 3, and a digifant fuel filter. iot'll go on as per oem digi pump then if it was me though, id consider going to a mk3 fuel tank setup
Its funny you should mention that because I may possibly be getting my hands on a complete Mk3 GTi 8v soon. Its not definite at the moment, but I may be able to rob a fair few parts off it. Does the MK3 have a fuel pump in the tank? I had a look underneath the MK3 yesterday and I couldn't see something that looked like the MK2 setup. I'm still looking out for fuel pumps anyway to be on the safe side. How easy is it to get the fuel pump housing off from underneath the car? Bolts are fairly rusty so I'm gonna replace them should I get it off. Many thanks for the advice thus far.
mk3 just has the main pump in the tank, so leass to go wrong plus it doesnt get covered in salt. need the lines and filter carrier too, may as well put the 2.0 bottom on there while you have it
Right, I've isolated the problem now. Unhooked the fuel pump under the car and tested the plug with a multimeter when trying to start it, had enough juice from the plug but no action from the pump so I'm assuming its dead. So I've managed to snag a lightly used Bosch fuel pump and seal from eBay for the princely sum of 3, had a hell of a time removing it from the reservoir because literally all the bolts/screws had rusted beyond belief. So now I need to buy a new reservoir, bolts, and those stupid rubber washer things. I can't get my ETKA to work, the "starten" button is just greyed out all of the time. Can anyone help me find a few part numbers so I can price up the cost from a few places?