The seal between carb and airbox is part number 037129625A as far as I can find, but if you phone VW and tell them your car details they'll be able to say whether this is the right one. Small favour to ask perry, can you stop typing a capital letter at the start of every word? It makes it seriously hard to read, isn't it a pain in the bum to type like that anyway? Edit: by the way, any changes to the vac piping with the intention of "making it pokier" are very unlikely to be successful. That pipe on the filler cap, where does the other end go?
sorry about that pete.... its cus i have to write in capital letters when writing reports on my computer at work and for some reason when i write it out all in capitals its post's it on the board as each starting letter in caps and not the rest!! cheers for the part number as well mate! i'll let you know how i get on tonight...
Morning! right, I think I finally have success... I've still got to get a new flap for the air intake and get the metal shroud sorted, but it doesn't seem to be stalling! And it was bloody freezing this morning! I managed to re-connect all the vacuum lines as per the diagrams(cheers rubjonny). the non return valve and line to the brake servo were present, they had just been blocked off?! so sorted that out. The only remaining issue is that now I've sorted all that out its ticking over really low- like spluttering at around 400rpm... is this just likely to be the idle adjustment? if so can you point me in the direction of it? I know its suppose to be around 900rpm? Oh i forgot to mention that the vac line we were talking about yesterday goes into the front bottom of the carb.... i left it how it was as i couldn't really get to it. p.s- cheers to all you guys that have helped me out! GENIUSES!
Glad you're getting there mate. Idle speed adjustment is at the back of the carb, a 13mm a/f hex 'bolt' sticking out the back of the 3-point unit. Numbered '13' on this picture http://www.zen62266.zen.co.uk/images/golf/pierburg2e2/2e2back.jpg Make sure the engine is fully up to temperature, and that the actuator of the 3-point unit is touching the grubscrew sticking out of the angle-bracket on the lower LHS (as viewed from the front of the car, lower left of this picture: http://www.zen62266.zen.co.uk/images/golf/pierburg2e2/pier2.jpg), or it won't make any difference. My car came with a little 10mm/13mm open-ended spanner which is just the ticket for this adjustment. 950rpm seems like a good figure to go for.
ok then mate cheers for that. that was handy.... mine didn't come with a spanner, but did come with the original beach mat and holder in the boot!
top result, good to hear progress is being made. Adjust the idle up to 750ish, that should do it (that's when warm btw). Adjusting the idle during warm up is a bit more involved. have you checked that the pulldown unit is working OK? these things have a diaphragm in them which tends to spring a leak every now and then
ok I'll have to take a picture of the mat for you later maximo mate! so if I remove the tube from the green ball, and suck on the that line that goes into the pulldown unit then I should see the choke flap move?? is this correct way to test the pulldown unit? also when I'm doing my idle adjustment... what if the actuator of the 3 point unit isn't touching the grub screw... should I just adjust the grub screw until it is touching??? hopefully I'll get a night off tomorrow, to go down t'pub for a friday night session!!
To test the pulldown you need to suck on the other line, the one that goes into port A (with port B open to air). With a completely cold engine, it should move the choke flap from closed to about 2.5mm open (carefully put the butt end of a 2.5mm drill down the front side of the primary barrel to measure). If you then block off the hose that goes to port B, and keep sucking on A, it should open further, to about 5.5mm gap. Don't drop the drills! Also, if you stop sucking and put your tongue over the end of the pipe, the choke flap should stay open. If it closes back up again (or struggles to open at all) you have a broken pull-down diaphragm, and should replace the unit (20 approx. GSF). With the idle adjustment; if, when fully warmed up, that grubscrew isn't touching the actuator, you may well have a broken waxstat too. These are a little more expensive (30 from GSF) so you might want to take it off the car and check it out a bit. When cold, the pin should stick out about 2mm proud of the flange surface, with a bit of pressure pushing it inwards, (30 Newtons, if you have a feeling for force). If you then dip the housing in some boiling hot water, it should gradually extend to a protrusion of about 12mm. Common failure, I'm afraid. Someone may also have tinkered with that grubscrew of course... Edit: The actuator of the 3-point unit should stick out approximately 8-9mm when engine is running. If you haven't already, buy a couple of metres of genuine VW vac line and replace them all. You'll also have some spare, to use for testing purposes. Someone on E-bay is selling the stuff: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-AIR-HOSE-...oryZ9889QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I only say this, 'cos VW are sometimes reluctant to buy it in, it comes on big reels and the turnover can't be high.
hey guys. so I tested the pulldown unit and its working perfectly!! also the the waxstat is working fine as it was touching the grub screw. so just out of curiosity I took the vac line I had made running from the back of the carb to the back valve on the t/stat and the engine started ticking over perfectly... there is a strong vacuum from that line, so I presume my t/stat has had it? because when ever I put my finger over the disconnected vac line, the engine would drop to 400rpm again (blocked stat?) I left it disconnected, and the car was running perfectly this morning.... so I didn't adjust the idle. does this sound correct to anybody? oh yeah pete- i did buy 2meters from GSF but i think that is 3.5mm... better off with the stuff off ebay???
I don't like the GSF stuff myself, it doesn't seem as 'springy' as the proper VW stuff, when you push it over a vac nipple, it seems to deform, then stay in this deformed state, rather than gripping tightly. Dunno if that makes any real difference though. It still sounds like you may have a vacuum leak somewhere, 'cos blocking/unblocking that vac line that goes to the thermostat should only make a small difference to the idle. When the stat is closed/cold it basically blocks that line any way (routes the vac to the diaphragm above the flap), when at 20C or above it opens it to the inside of the airbox. Treat the stat to a clean-out anyway, take both vac hoses off, and squirt some carb cleaner in the rear nipple, and then blow it through. Have you had a look at the mounting flange under the carburettor? That's another area where vac leaks can occur as a result of age/heat degrading the rubber flange. Edit: actually I'm confused, if you had a vac leak, running would get worse when you open that thermostat vac line, not better! I also don't understand what you just said about the waxstat! It should cause the grubscrew to be not touching the actuator of the 3-point unit for the first 5 minutes or so after cold start, then when it's done its job, those things should be touching. Edit2: It could be that your mixture adjustment is way out. Could be worth taking the car to an MOT testing station and getting them to put it on their gas analyser. Should only cost a tenner or so, and then you'd know what the CO reading is at the moment. It should be around 1-1.5% with the (cam-cover) breather hose disconnected from the n/s of the airbox, and all the vac lines in their correct positions .
if the CO/idle was set up with a disconnected vac line then i wouldn't be too surprised that it runs 'properly' with the vac disconnected. When you seal up the air leak you're reducing the amount of air getting to the engine so you'll need to reset the idle/co as mr pete says
ok well it might be worth me getting some off ebay anyway. i just ordered the car-airbox seal from vw and it was under the part number you gave me. only 3 and it'll be in tomorrow. i wasn't very clear about the waxstat- i did mean after the engine had warmed up to normal running temp, as i was going to be adjusting the idle. yeah if i cant resolve things this weekend then that's my next step. although it passed all its imitions on mot in july and i haven't adjusted anything. oh just read your post rubjonny- to the test center it is then!
