i'll see how they are, its not impossible that it was a bad set, equally it could be possible its just how they are. i like the design and the 48mm throttle should be plenty big enough! if its rebushing etc, thats easy enough to do. i take your point on the underslug throttle mech, but that i think should be simple enough to fix or work around.
Oh they'll keep you occupied! Throttle plates are the wrong shape too. 48mm is way too big..big enough for 250hp.. but to be fair doesn't upset drivability on Adam's 1800 so a 2ltr will cope fine. He persevered with his based on how they look too and made some trumpet extensions as the overall length is too short ideally. We got over 160hp with them on his 1781cc bottom end, mild ish head work and tame 272 hydro cam.
Looks like the guides are cut back flush with the roof of the port too...which wont do many favours for the guide life and ultimately valve seat seal in the long term...easy enough to replace tho.
i managed to get a bit of time this weekend, on first look the throttle plate dont look like the best fit, further inverstigation revealed that only number 1 was actually reaching its stop and closing properly, strip down the linkage and reset them working from 4 to 1 and now the all open and close properly, the gaps around the plates are comparable to a number of VW throttle bodies i have. i also noted that there was a tiny amount of play in a couple of the spindles, however once the mechanism was fitted up that seemed to be signifcantly reduced. in all i reserve judgement, i am not about to junk them yet. I had an random thought of removing the throttle plate and mechanism and using the bodies as runners for a plenum with a VR6 TB..... maybe thats plan B.
That was one of the problems. .the plates are round...which to seal at the angle they sit when closed they shouldn't be...Adam and his dad made new ones. I'll speak to him and see if he fancies a crack at another set if you like. .they can be made to work.
Ah I understand, I thought about knife edging and fettling them. I am considering dropping the ABA head on the bottom end whilst it's in the car and tweaking the ITBs to get them working before I send the head down to you. As the car is still mostly complete it seems a good opportunity to put it to use. That way I can also work out water flanges and cooling circuit mods.
Not a bad idea Alan. Speak to Tim (mitlom) on here...he's done all the plumbing on his plus some tweeks we recommended...Adam (dumma) too...his has the OBX bodies and he'd give you any pointers you need. I'll need some cc calcs and piston location measurements from you off the bottom end too so I can get the chamber volume right to match the c.r to the cam.
Sweet, I'll drop dumma a pm, I have ordered a flange for the water outlet which appears to have the capability of taking the mk2 temp sensors. I need to check which head gasket the aba takes, I have a PB and a 2E, on the shelf, my luck it will be some thing different!
Also thinking about your comment about the length being a but short, I have a few of sets of inlet flanges that I had made from the drawing I sent you ages ago. I have been thinking about moving the whole lot out from the head as the ports are round at that point and it would just need two sets of flanges and some tube welding together.
It is I think. .speak to Tim. .depends on the block and head combo. .I don't think unless I have too these days. .too much to think about! lol I'll try and get some pics of Adam's extentions...full write up coming soon.
