Turbo/boost issues - 1.8T 20v

Mine Had A Loose Connection Ontop At The Maf Sensor...
But They Still Dont Fly Apparantly, Needs A Remap To Make It Shift

 

Hi Guys....well...while I was changing my turbo, I realised that the standard AGU downpipe was rubbing on my steering UJ so I ordered up a QPENG one.

Upon taking off the AGU downpipe, I noticed that the O2 sensor was loose. Looks like someone took it off to put a clip round the heat wrap around the cable and didn't tighten it back up. I'm not sure if this was done by the guys that fitted my air con or when it had its MOT, but I reckon that it could well have been the reason that it was running like crap. It was loose enough to let air in, so the O2 reading would have been all wrong.

So....I've got the QPENG downpipe, but didn't realise it's 2.5" the whole way, so it won't fit around the standard 8v exhaust Looks like my car will be out of action till I can order up the reducer from their site

 

Hi Guys...just in case anyone has similar symptoms and finds this thread through a search...I finally got the problem fixed by AmD in Essex when I took the car to get tuned.

The problem was a faulty fuel pump. They swapped it out and now it's running beautifully

 

Kav... after all that! bet u were glad to get it sorted.

If u have a look at some of my posts i have got what looks like exactly the same problem that u had.

Rolling road was reading low (around 120bhp at the wheels) and was told it may be a loose pressure pipe. I am in the middle of having it remaped but cant get a proper reading with this problem as im sure ur well aware of!

I also get a whoooosh noise when i accelerate but ive always put that down to the air sucking in through the induction kit? maybe not??

Have had it serviced since and unfortunatly have had to have a new steering rack fitted and with all that work going on i asked for them to keep an eye out for any loose pipes but they didnt come across anything. I have my car booked in to a performance garage next month to have a look at the engine to c what they think. JK Automobile in Bristol?? Hopefully not the same company u took urs to?
And then back on to the rolling road.

Did the company AMD find out that it was a faulty fuel pump and how much was it to replace and is it an easy job?

Also my car back fires, not all the time but pretty much every trip. Only when i change gearand release the clutch again. Did u ever come across this? Maybe its just a different problem all together?

 

also do u still get the whooshing noise now its all sorted?

 

and have u any idea what ur bhp is now?

 

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be maf..........

car runs sweet as hell now, will be rolling roaded soon.......

 

Hello mate,

Yes, after nearly 2k spent replacing bit by bit I was VERY glad to have it sorted

When the first tuning company had it on the rolling road it was producing 115bhp (ish) with the crappest curves known to man. I thought the whooshing sound was the air being dumped, but I still hear it now that it's all working, so that's ok.

The tuning place I took it to the first time round was in Aylesbury so you're ok. AMD seem to be featuring in a lot of the VW mags and I believe are one of the traders on this site (or possibly on ed38)...and I can vouch for them being truly brilliant

You can change your fuel pump yourself - it's not a difficult job. I'm assuming you have a mk4 golf? If so, then the fuel pump is located under your rear RHS passenger seat.

**WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA**

* There's a black cover (3 screws) that needs to be removed then you'll see the top of the fuel pump.

* Make sure your tank is as near to empty as possible when you do this....depressurise the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine over till it stops running.

* Disconnect the wiring loom from the top of the pump then remove the fuel in/out hoses (black and blue)...remember where they go. Be prepared for spillage...have plenty of kitchen roll handy.

* There is a black ring around the fuel pump - please see pic below


* Twist this anticlockwise to loosen and remove. The fuel pump and sender will now pop out of the tank. The fuel pump is the metal cylinder inside all the plastic...I can't quite recall how to remove it as it's been a while, but it'll be self evident once you get it out.

* Re-assembly is a reversal of the above process. Remember to reinsert the fuel pump fuse

The fuel pump is not cheap though...you'll be looking at around 280 from VW, so I'd recommend having the sensors checked...there are about 4 or 5 that could be causing this issue, with the MAF being the most common. Next step is to follow all of the turbo (and vacuum) pipes for splits...there are a few vacuum pipes under the inlet manifold...these tend to crack after time so check them carefully.

Diagnostics can be quite expensive so it's worth doing a bit of the dirty work before taking it to the pros.

Backfiring is usually caused by the timing belt being out or the tensioner failing, but it could also be a problem with the fuel injection system. Is your car due a cam belt change soon?

Have you got VAG-COM? Maybe do a scan and see if any faults are coming up. Also check your fuel injectors - they could be causing an air leak or be faulty themselves.

AMD sorted my problem and also tuned the car up while it was there it's running at 210bhp with smooth ass curves

Hope this helps dude...let me know if you have any more questions.