hi, i'm planning on fitting twin webers to a scirocco which originally had the 2e2 carb. the cylinder head has a water outlet to the original inlet manifold. this hole will be redundant, and the manifolds i've seen do not have a face which will seal this hole. what would be the best way to deal with this hole?? does a manifold exist which caters for this? cheers,
Can you take a pic of the hole ? If the water outlet is a screw-in fitting then a large grub screw/plug the same thread will do the job. Or if the head is off/coming off the car then have it welded up. Mine is based on a carb head, if you cant take a pic i'll have a look and see what was done to blank it off. The most common inlet manifold is a Mangoletsi. It's cack in standard form and needs opening up to achieve a worthwhile result, mine certainly does'nt cover up any water outlets. There are some available from (I think) South Africa, Rowlands manifolds ?
thanks for that link mr hillclimber, the hole is about3cm in diam. it is above and between the inlets for cyl 3 and 4 (4 being furthest from timing belt end-excuse my engine term ignorance) my engine tuner is more than confident he can seal it, just wondering how others have overcome this, realise most people prob start with an injection head which does not have this water outlet. thanks in advance for any info. kt
I did indeed... There's an allen drive plug/grub screw in there, about 8-10mm, so that would do you as well.
A Gti, PB, cylinder head would be a good idea, the water hole is blocked, it has bigger valves and a better cam, all for 20 squid prob...
excellent, so just tap it and bung a big bolt in there. twin 45's, pack C head and a tsr203 cam. should be good for a giggle. she was dyno'ed at 140 just with the weber32/34
Not a bolt bud, a flush fitting grub screw/plug with an allen type drive. Is the fitting in there now threaded ? I'd imagine it is. Just get a threaded plug the same size. I'd use a sealer on it as well. If the bottom end is in good health and its all set up correctly, it should give around 170hp, maybe a little more. The 203 cam's about 280 degree's is'nt it ? Do you know what size choke's are in the carb's ?
sure, i get what you mean. 203 is 282 degrees. don't know how healthy the bottom end is, 125K, oil pressure good and the bores looked well healthy when i fitted the head. don't know how much you can infer from power, but she was dyno'd at 140bhp with the standard weber carb. the 45's have 36mm chokes and they're fresh oot the box if i get anywhere near 170 i'll be a very happy chappy
Thats a lot miles to be putting a fair bit of extra power through, though what does'nt kill it will only make it better ! I'm guessing that the engine was'nt totally stock showing that power... performance filter, exhaust & manifold ? 36mm chokes will be a tad too big really, but use em as you have them and take it from there.
hee hee, no, 4 branch and a decent exhaust and an ITG bolt-on air filter. when you say extra power and miles, are you referring to the 140 i've got now, or the 170est (or both!!) a fair few folk were surprised i got that with the weber, with no changes to the jets. she was running a wee bit lean on dyno day i'll keep you posted on the power gains i see, thanks for the convo, mr hillclimber
Ahh... may have to re-evaluate yr power ... i took it that you had the head on already. That power seams a bit high for the limited mods. You may have been rolling roaded by an over enthusiastic dyno operater !... What was the power at the wheels showing ?
erm, yeah big valve head is on allready. at the wheels was 99bhp, 134lb/ft torque at 4000rpm. just had a look at the readouts again, was 136bhp flywheel.
That's a fair loss through the trans. My old 8v had just over 110 @ wheels and we reckoned at about 135 at the flywheel. You can see the graph on my website (link below). On my rally car I tapped the water outlet and screwed a bolt in with some PTFE tape, worked a treat. Brunty
