UK Kamei Mk1 Golf Replica - Prescott Hillclimb on page 53 !!!!!

That is a 'trim fork'...

 

Interesting idea about cooling the tar to help remove it Mike. It does chip off when cold but any impacts risk damaging the perfectly good paint under the tar.

I'd recommend giving the heat gun a go though for comparison. The first bit you did ('D') took me probably 15- 20 mins with a heat gun recently, and it comes off in huge amounts, sometimes 5cm x 5cm or more.

The added advantage is by having the glue hot and semi un-cured again, it can be ragged off quite quickly.

The inner wheel arch area is a real pain due to the amount of glue (different glue?) - I'm sure you will be way quicker with the rest you've got remaining.

 

Cheers, i got tomorrow off so i am having a good go at it & i have a heat gun now so i will try a piece like you said.


I have a small fire extinguisher & a few buckets of water ready .


The inner arch "B" i found quite easy with the tool above but i did cut my hand a few times as your puttingpressure & when it breaks off your hand can slip forward & i caught it on things like the piece of metal thatstop the accelerator bottoming out on floor.


Chris i wasn't going to hit it after freezing it, just scrape like i have been doing but hoping for bigger pieces to break away.


How thick did you find the glueon the floor because i have lifted a little & it looks as thick as toffee .

 

great thread,

now i don't want to appear rude but this weight saving thing is getting a bit anal

out of curiousity how much do you weigh??

that would be great benefits more than removing mass from the car?

 

15 stone & on a diet

 

Right started on it again today but hit 2 problems:


found a crack along the floor that follows the channel in middle:











This crack is actually at the top of the box section under the car which can be seen through this drain hole:





but i think it got dropped onto something but its hard to tell as the opposide side that doesn't have the dent in it is still angled with the shape of the car:








& the other thing i found is this perfect round factory? hole at the end of the channel (which is also in some of the above pics:








the box section seems to be made of thin material (when you knock it) & from my guess (tell me if im wrong) but the box section got crushed slightly (all other body lines around it are straight) and this caused a crack at the top of it that cracked along the top corner of it where it followed the floor?


Can anyone shed any more light on the small round hole or how hard the crack would be to fix because from the inside the metal looks quite thin & not structural?

 

Holes are just drain holes, ignore 'em
cracks have been caused by jacking on the chassis, should be easy enough to plate up from inside, don't use steel too heavy tho

 

phew thanxs gary i was bricking myself .

 

I could've dramatised it and said it was the tree-stump-pulling torque of the ferocious 2.1 8v lump that's ripping the front end of the car off

 

nah that only happened before i put the braces in ..........no honest the dash started coming loose .

 

Is it me, On that last pic it looks as if there is some sort of repair plate round the hole.

 

Ithink it's where the light has caught it steve but im getting it looked at anyway thanks.

 

A good reason to remove all that factory matting tat when you restore a Mk1!!

Mine has a lot of the dents along the floorpan rails too - just previous idiots with no idea how to jack up a car

Re the crack: you'll probably have to cut that small section out and have a long, thin piece of metal welded in place.

You could get away with killing the rust and fibreglassing it but this is a bodge job and wouldn't last long in the big picture. Might aswell fix it properly while you can.

Make sure you lather the entire floorpan in rust killer/sealer. I did three coats on mine prior to priming it just to be sure it wouldn't rust again.

Your car is gonna sound like a monster with everything removed

 

Mike, to answer your PM (if not already answered) it looks to me like water may have been sitting under the tar - I don't think it's the thumping on axle stands that's caused it.

 

thanks everyone for your quick responses

 

I take it that stuff is brushed on then?


Do places like halfords or other car accessory outlets sell thats stuff mate?

 

I tried the heat gun & your right it was much easier, iran it over an area for a few seconds then held it low down at the start of the piece to blow heat across it & with the other hand i slide a metal paint stripper underneath it & it came up in huge strips .


Todays pics:











only problem im having is with the glue thats like the stuff elastic bands are made of?


There are bits on the arch & it was all over those round peices on the floor which i would like to know about.
Edited by: fthaimike

 

frosts sell all sorts of good stuff

 

ooh ta

 

Warm the glue and fill a rag with thinners, and wipe over.

The rag will get full of glue, become useless, so sooner or later get a new rag & repeat until the surface is clean.

The round discs - they're plastic - are visible from underneath also.

Personally I wouldn't touch them. If you really want a 'proper job' you'd need to spend a while digging them out, wire brushing around the holes, and then tack welding in some round steel discs. Really doesn't achieve a lot though IMO - pure cosmetics.