The fan thermoswitch connections look like mk1, but it may be correct for very early MK2 as well If you want the after-run to work you would need to modify this section anyway so you could fit a MK2 plug and boot at the same time
A MK1 wouldn't have the 2 pin plug to join it to the main harness so it's not a MK1 fan loom though, on those the live spade goes straight to thermoswitch then the fan loom has 1 spade to the other thermoswitch pin and earth direct to battery. But the thermoswitch single.spade plugs may have carried over for a year or so if that makes sense
The connection to the sensor indeed doesn't look original. Should be a 3 pin (2 occupied) female plug if you ask me. Edit: Too late Apart from the connections on the sensor, it indeed looks a lot like my MK2 loom.
Cheers... I'm getting ahead of myself, can only say it was on my MK1 and wired up as shown, though it's that long ago since the car ran I can't say whether or not it even worked. I'll get the rest of the loom into some sort of order and maybe see what this section would've connected to rather than waste your time further. There's always the chance too that it's a lash up from a previous owner.
Oh sorry its a MK1 so yes the fan switch terminals are correct. I haven't seen them run the 2 pin power/earth connector but maybe that was added as a late run out thing. It's not as if I've seen as many MK1 lighting looms as I have engine looms, mostly it's the engine stuff I deal with Potentially it was grafted in to remove old grotty wiring ends, and the MK2 style of connection was used. On looms I repair I tend to add this plug for my customers to make it more flexible for them going forward changing out fan/rad packages
The fan switch on a MK1 originally looks like this, it has been superceeded by the MK2 one though https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/radiat...rees-mk12-golf-jetta-scirocco-t25-18241-p.asp
I'd say you've probably nailed it... the thermo-switch I pictured is 191959481 and dated 1994, looks like a previous owner has changed things about to suit then. I've already committed to a 3x pin fan so may as well go the whole hog and get a MK2 sub-loom that'll also allow the U/K sensor to be added in.
Got a MK2's sub-loom as pictured below. Have also tried to get my head around the electrical schematic you posted, getting myself very confused in the process. The pics. of the relay (#220 / 443 995 532) I'm taking a chance on is the correct one, not my images... if it's not then all of the below is just crap, ignore it! Bearing in mind this is for a MK1, I'll not have some of the wiring mentioned in the schematic, nor provision in the fuse box for the relay presumably? I'm thinking I can create a partial standalone set up to allow for the wiring I don't have / additional relay #220? The top part of your schematic, does that represent the MK2's fuse box? If I'm not going via my own fusebox I'll have to build in the 10A at S15 and the 30A at S1 to my own set up? My single connector with the 2x red/white wires going in, it goes to terminal of 87 of the relay? My twin connector, the brown wire from it goes to an earth? The same twin connector, the red wire from it goes to terminal 30 of the relay? This bit confuses me, do the red wires from the twin connector and relay terminal 30 join and go to a (30A fused) positive source? The relay terminals on their own - 15 - to 10A earth? T - to U/K sensor? 30 - to 30A postive? 31 - to separate unfused earth? 87 - to single connectorwith twin red/white wires? The 0.5, 1.0, 2.5 etc., is that the gauge of wire needed? Now that I've worn the print off the ? button, hope that makes sense (?)
Yes the bit at the top is the fusebox, as you can see only 2 connections for this system to the FB and the relay is mounted in a separate holder clipped.on top. C20 refers to plug C (yellow) pin 20, which is ignition live shar D with the reverse switch. On a MK1 C/20 will have the reverse switch wire there so easy to tap to it or you could use g spade 2 or 5 or wherever takes your fancy. C7 is the main permanent live for the fan switch, can tap to that like the MK2 harness does or you could go straight to a P spade, with inline fuse To mk2-ify the MK1 fan wiring simply cut the old fan harness off, near the battery/fan switch. The old red wire to fan switch goes to the red on the MK2 2 pin plug, and the old brown on the MK1 fan goes to the brown (though you might prefer to run a fresh earth to battery) The white/red spade goes to the relay 15 - ignition live, only for switched so no load on it and so fuse can be low ampage 30 perm live (this will be us d to power fan after run, so put 15/20a fuse on) 31 earth, again lo load so thin wire to claw is fine and is how it was as standard in MK2 T is the thermoswitch wire 87 power to red/white spade above 0.5-1.5 is wire gauge in mm2 as you say
