hi have a p reg 20l 8v gti and looking for sum fairly cheap ways of uping the performance? any good ways to gain a little more bhp. gonna be putting a viper induction kit on and a cat back powerflow exchuast and lookin for a greater power gain as imagine this wont change thing that much!!!
you can buy some plastic explosive off ebay for peanuts, stick that in your engine bay with a fuse and stand back.. the power you'll get off the explosion will be awesome.. and will cure all the potential problems with the car in one go!
Will improve the responsivness and pep up the top end. Make it a little more fun to drive but not give any massive improvements in power. After that depends how far you want to go. You can get good power out of these engines but you need head work, cam, de-cat pipe, manifold etc. I'm sure a lot of people on here would tell you to swap the car/engine for a bigger/one with more valves. Depends what you like really. I always like to use nitrous and this is a really good way of boosting power in a big way for relatively little money. (I run 75hp shot from a kit which all in cost less than 800 pounds) but obviously you need to keep refilling the bottle. (If you're interested in this see my sticky thread in the turbo, supercharged and nitrous section.) I've done alot to my 2.0L 8v, and love the way it drives, not just flat out, but I've spent alot of time and effort on the motor. I just didn't want to go down the 16v VR6 route.
cheers for all the advise... not looking at nos really as a little extreme for me but im also not lookin for more valves as love the torque from the 8v... wat do u mean by head work, p&p? also wat cams would u recomend?? i was thinking instead of removing the cat cos of mot and insurance reasons, putting on a sports cat!!! wat u recon bout that too? cant afford a nice new stainless manifold at mo unfortunatly!!!
Sports cat will be better but you probably won't notice the difference until you've done other things. I'd go for a mild road cam, not too bad on emissions, but will pull much better at the top end. (Kent GS22H if I remember right has a power band from 1500-6000rpm) Head work then pick all any of the following, porting, polishing, skiming (compression increase) multi angle valve seat cuts...depends how deep your pockets are. or...buy a 2nd hand head (well cheap on the bay) read a book or two and have a crack at some of it yourself. That's what I did, best way to learn about a subject so you can make an informed purchase if you decide to spend a load of money later!! Personally if its a daily driver/ mainly a road car leave the flywheel alone. If you were adament about it then get the stock one lightened at an machinist, there's no need to buy anything aftermarket.
sound mate, loads of help.. will look at cam and getting heads done i think first as seem the most common way to gain power easily! would a haynes be handy at all for sum of these jobs or do i need more specific info?? will leave the fly wheel then dude. my pockets a little empty at moment too!
what order would u sugest to get all this done as gonna sprerad it over sum months?? the next thing i will do tho is get a fse power valve but then after that im not sure where to start... dont trust my self to do the head so gonna have to pay for that!!! would it be wise to do this next then move on to the cam etc???
If you're doing head work then definitely get a spare 2nd hand head (I may have one after the weekend) as they cost peanuts. Then you don't need to have the car immobile while you do the work (have the work done). Makes sense then to put the cam in this head and just get the head swapped one weekend, even if it means waiting another month to buy the cam. (That's what I usually do) What year is the engine (better still what's the engine code, will be 2E, ADY or AGG) Be warned head work can be expensive as its pretty labour intesive (which is why its worth having a crack yourself, not that I'm saying I'm an expert but if you can get 80/90% of the performance for free...)
Sorry...order... Well the big power is in the head, and so is the big money so depends whether you want some little cheap bumps or wait a bit for a bigger hike.
think ill go with ur sugestion of gettin a spare head and tring myself. that way if i f*@k up i can start again.. i can get the cam really anytime as have sum money aside for an upgrade!!! do u no of any good guide for doing the heads as really dont no where to start??? let us no if that spare heads up for grabs too....
multi angle valve seat cuts??? wats this too?? man i really no nothing!!! just aswell im a quick learner!!!!lol
sorry forgot to say. was wondering how to find out wat it is. it a p reg 1996 3door. dont surpose u can tell me wat it is from this info? 2e, etc
Got loads of useful internet based guides (not morons who don't know what they're on about, but the links are saved on my other computer, will post them up when I'm next on it. What i did was took my head to a local (friendly) head shop and said ...I'm going to give the head to you for skimming and a 3 angle valve seat cut (cost 100) and in return asked for a bit of guideance on where and how to remove material from the head. Worked out well for both of us. Done a few now for my cars and friends. Other than that when you're ready PM me and I'll swing you my phone number, then you can just call when you get stuck!! For an idea of what to pay for a head...I've sold really tidy heads with inlet manifold, cam, valves and fuel rail for 50 and I've but just a head, with cam and valves for 25 So somewhere in there is good money.
It'll be and AGG. That means the Compression ratio is 9.6:1 (2E and ADY are 10:1) That means when you skim the head you can afford to take a bit more off to get back some of the compression
This is all getting a bit bitty cause we're replying at the same time!! Valve seat cuts.... Most stock head have a single valve seat cut angle which matches the back cut angle on th valve so when the valve "sits" back down on the seat the faces match up and seal. 3 angle cut has two different angles either side of the valve seat angle, basically making a smoother transition into the combustion chamber and hence better flow. 5 angle is smoother transition still with 2 angles either side of the seat angle. You can go further but less reward for the effort and not worth the bother in a road car.
And.... You can find the engine code in the Log book, or if its still there the sticker under the carpet on the RHS of the boot. But I'm certain it'll be AGG (99.9 anyway!) Best read the last 436 posts before anything else...!!
that would be brillient mate!!! well this weekend gonna go up gsf and midland vw so whilst out ill try picking up a new head and find a local friendly head shop.. wat ill do is wen im up to speed ill drop u a pm (prob lookin at next weekend now) but in meantime if u could find out thos links that would be brillient... cheers for all ur help dude. hopefully force sum more power out the 8v's and show up sum other cars!!!
i i hav a habbit of repling lots!!lol thanks again would never of looked under carpet to find that out!! had a hunch it was that code... thats alot clearer on the angle seat cut now cheers... can seem very complecated wen u hav no clue but uv made things alot clearer and im sure ill be happy with the results....
I've bought a head of sdj_mk3 (hello by the way) and its in amazing condition. I bought it because i'm also going to port n polish it by myself...thats when i've got the time. Where you from bluntman_oli?
