vacuum pipes cis brake booster check valve

Discussion in 'K-Jetronic OEM injection' started by Shaniel Behari, Apr 14, 2014.

  1. Shaniel Behari New Member

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    Hi All,

    where do the two vacuum pipes on the cis brake booster check valve go to?

    im struggling to post a picture of the valve, someone please help...
     
  2. Shaniel Behari New Member

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    its a golf 2 gti 8v engine, the best way to explain the valve is originally its half yellow and half black with two vacuum holes.
     
  3. EZ does it Forum Member

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    If you mean which way round does the yellow and black valve go; it needs to allow flow to go towards the manifold, you can blow through it to figure out which way that is.

    If you mean what do the vacuum lines attach to; one will go to the brake servo, the other will go to the manifold. I can't be more specific, not really familiar with the engine.
     
  4. Shaniel Behari New Member

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  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    as for the pipes on the valve itself, one of them goes to the clocks for the MFA computer the other is capped off or used for vacuum feeds on the engine depending on what management it is
     
  6. Shaniel Behari New Member

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    Howzit John,

    another quick question while you online, could vacuum leaks cause an air lock in the fuel lines? the reason I'm asking is that the car stopped starting, what happens is that I have to loosen the banjo bolt on the front of the distributor on the metering head and then crank the motor for fuel start flowing again then re-insert it and the car will start but only if the accelerator is pushed in, if I turn the car off then i have to repeat that procedure.
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    is this on a warm/hot start? if so could be the non-return valve in the fuel pump or the accumulator has failed allowing pressure to drop off too quickly after the engien shuts down. this will allow the fuel to evaporator in the lines and make it a real git to restart. on a cold start its usually easier
     
  8. Shaniel Behari New Member

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    on any start hey, doesn't matter hot or cold it does that...
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    kk well it might still be down to that, it wont be a vac leak causng it anyway.

    ideally need a fuel pressure test kit to diagnose faults with kjet otherwise its a case of make your best guess change stuff and see if that fixes it.

    have a read of the 16v guide it covers all the basic kjet tests you can do, just ignore all the 16v specific stuff:
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?195423
     
  10. Shaniel Behari New Member

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    i should also mention that, i was digging around in the cars original service book, can you believe it since 1989 it's still there, anyway the car has been for a big valve conversion and a 276 cam, how would this effect timing and intake and the like, i have the car setup to what i assume is a rough estimate of 6degree btdc ignition timing as i cannot see any marks on the fly wheel and eye balled it on the cam shaft
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    with kjet and carbs its a case of add advance till it pinks and back off a bit, then set the base idle and co. something around 1.8% id assume would work well but ymmv with all the work done, really to get the best out of an engien thats been modified you want to drop all the kjet parts into nearest bin and install megasquirt or similar as they just aint very tunable

    the kstar+fuel kits help as you can at least map fuel and ignition better but its a case of can you find anyone who can map them!
     
  12. Shaniel Behari New Member

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    i was looking at mega squirt, but i first want to sort out all these nagging 'teething' teething issues that I'm having once i can get the car to be a consistent daily runner then i will look at getting the most out of the mods that were previously done.
     

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