Just wondering if anyone can help with some details on a motor those crazy Dutchies did a few years ago (I know we have a few that pop in here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdypa4Ble-c on the engine dyno Does anyone have an idea of the block this could be bolted on I would love to know what the bore spacing is on all the VW block "series" and the minimum bore to fit the 20v head (valves clearing the walls) We never got the small frame motors in Australia, only 1.6+ of the old generation, (we do have the 1.2/1.4 alloy blocks from the last 7-8years) but I guess if the bore spacing for one of the 1.1 motors was right and the head was to work on a (say) 72.5 bore, which is still over square, I would bet that is a winner If it is a short stroke 81mm bore 1.8, 20v, that would be a 56.7 stroke...that is really, really short, obviously a custom crank As a point of perspective I am building a CBZ 1.2 to keep in the under 2 Litre class, but I am worried that the alloy block may be a bit too light if I push up around 300hp and 8000 rpm, since we are already looking at custom pistons and rods an old 1.1 that I can rely on will be better, not to mention the bonus of being able to buy things like valve train as opposed to custom everything for the 2 valve CBZ
My friend had an engine built by them in his track car called greeny. It was mental loud as gad a crazy red line !! His was a cross flow head on throttle bodies. Loud just so loud lol. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I knew it would be somewhere but I tried a few searches with no avail! Anyone know if you could base something on a 59mm crank from the early 900cc and 1050cc Polos as well as some mk2 golfs and Ibiza mk2? Bore spacing for the engine ID codes: GL, HZ, AAK, AAU, ACM, AEV and HA
Any help on the 59mm crank being able to fit a 1.8 block (or 1.8 head on the little motors for that point) I would pay a lot of money to import one if it did, but would need to know it fits
The 20V is 81 mm bore and 88 mm CC distance between bores You could use an alloy ALT 2.0 block or an FSI 2.0 block , both N.A and 82.5 mm bore ( ca 20 kg) it would need lond rods (159 mm ? ) and a custom crank and there are much performance parts on the market... and its pretty straight forward to build Going with the small block.... you get much chance that the gearbox of those dont cope with serious power levels
You would need anyway other rods which are longer to compensate the short stroke, this to get the piston near block deck
Not sure if you guys have priced a custom crank recently, but here we are talking a significant amount, because it will not be as easy as buying a blank forging and then machining it up, it would need to be a billet (which have their own issues for strength), the irony that something from the US with twice as many cylinders is half the price is not lost on me! (and will still turn 10,000 rpm in an 900hp NASCAR) Knowing that you can experiment with something else to get the same result can save a lot off money so it is worth the research Rods are cheap to get custom made, around GBP400 for pretty much any spec you want,
Of course some of us know the price of a good steel custom crank. This is a different league we are speaking about here and is the price you pay for a good bespoke engine, durability to compete and the know how from the supplying crankshaft company in terms of crankshaft rigidity and torsional resistance.. The crankshaft for an 1170 cc 20vT will be custom only. Best bet would be Farndon Engineering. Not a cheap option as it would be a one off! Rods are cheap to get custom made, around GBP400 for pretty much any spec you want,[/QUOTE] Owner of PEC I have met and can can create custom rod lengths with various big end and small end dimensions. You also have Arrow or Farndon. NASCAR bespoke components would be cheaper as there is a demand for them in batches PS, you may also need a damper for the crank as well!
That reference was in context of the 59mm crankshaft and its bore spacing, I was trying to work out if it is on an 88mm centre 4 cylinder Cranks are about GBP3000 locally, BUT no one has done it here before, I don't mind paying the money if it is all going to be right. Modification of existing part, then we are talking a third, and it is not like I can't get another if I do break it while customer are 4 month lead time! I will check Fardon, and I have mailed VKA I try and use ATI Dampers, they are excellent, rebuildable and built in with the dry sump drive I have changed the stroke on cars before, but that was based on offset grind, big difference!
HPR knows a thing or 4 on that sort of work so might be worth a pm. Keith Murray of Dialynx performance also, using a bespoke Farndon crank in his 1.4 16vT EA827 B2 Audi. ATI or Fluid dampers, pretty well respected for cancelling 2rd order destructive forces indeed.
