Vr6 - GTI Ball joint extenders (again..)

Just to clarify, hotgolf and Adam284 are talking about a particular supplier of ball joint extenders, not ball joint extenders in general.

 

the castor bit to be fair...but the whole drop link thing hasnt really sunk in...... if i have wishbones about level for best handling then add extenders am i right in saying i can now lower even further for better handling....race car not stanced car....

 

hi mart

what or who would be your recomendation then??

 

Mart please tell me if this is a dangerous / stupid diy idea I'm a have a go diyer hobbyist ,no professional lol

20 I.D spherical bearing in a ball joint bottom plate like others do

Now this is my dodgy idea bit , a m20 cap screw which is 12.9 tensile ratting running into a 20 thread tapped into the bottom tapper of the upright you could use different length screw to get the desired drop and have a sleeve over the thread between the wishbone and upright cut to length to keep things the same on both sides ie you cut them the same when decided on the right leangth .
Maybe it's a stupid idea but I've been thinking about this every time the question is raised and know how strong m20 cap heads are as I use them all the time for big heavy duty applications I think this would be a easy do ???

I'll delete this idea if told its to dangerous or stupid but one day I'll do it when I get the time and motivation just to see if it works

 

The Mk3 VR6 hubs (and possibly arms, not sure - RJ will know) give a lot more caster, just because they have different dimensions.

Exactly. If you have 2" ball joint extenders (with matching tie rod flip kit), you can lower the car 2" and have almost standard roll centres and bump steer. It won't be exact, but close enough.

 

Carnt believe i have never heard of this before?? this does open up a whole new question on hubs...can i use use same gubbins ie brakes 100x4 wheels etc etc


UOTE=sparrow;2380249]The Mk3 VR6 hubs (and possibly arms, not sure - RJ will know) give a lot more caster, just because they have different dimensions.




Exactly. If you have 2" ball joint extenders (with matching tie rod flip kit), you can lower the car 2" and have almost standard roll centres and bump steer. It won't be exact, but close enough.[/QUOTE]

 

That's where it gets tricky.

VR6 stuff is 5 stud, and brake disc offsets need to be taken in to account. I've not done any of that, so have no idea. You'll need to research that.

 

Delete it

 

You're biased lol

What type of steel did you use for your pins ?
How've they been doing ?

 

how bout these???

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Mk1-Mk...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item259e94d8a8

or are the scch version the way to go??

 

Some thing like this

I have made theses for myself and had them on my track car for 5/6 track days

 

They look pretty pucka..

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MK1-Go...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c4c28ab99 ??

 

So, are the bolt in 'naff' type ones any good IF they've been welded in?

 

looks like the scch option is the wayforward then....
anyone dealt with them before?

 

Mine are 'naff' welded in ones and have been subjected to some pretty hard driving and are structurally sound. As Mushy says though, the hold on the ball joint isn't great, the bottom of the extender is very stiff and the pinch bolt is only M6 so the clamp isn't great. I'm yet to come up with a great solution to this.

As an aside, the ball joint itself is ok in its normal position because there are very little bending stresses at the pivot point, I believe the problem is that people replicate that narrow section at the top of the extender, that is (in my case) 50mm away from the pivot. At this point the bending moment is quite large when cornering, and this combined with the shear force that this section is designed to take causes failure.

Welding the extender in creates a much stiffer and stronger section diameter that can handle the higher stresses.

This illustrates it quite well, imagine it rotated through 90 degrees with the force coming in from the hub at the middle, the beam represents the strut, the bottom part of the diagram shows bending monent (which results in stress) increasing:

 

OT as it's for 5 stud, but I finally got my SCCH extenders in the carriers. Welded top and bottom as well as dropping a couple of spot welds on the pinch bolt. Should hopefully be rock solid!