Vr6 - GTI Ball joint extenders (again..)

Nope. Bump steer is about the wishbone and steering arms describing different arcs in motion, and the difference in those arcs results in a steering input. This is complicated by the inner pivot points not being in the same place and the lengths of the steering arm and wishbone being different. Best way to measure the whole effect is to assemble the strut without a spring fitted, prop the cars chassis up to standard ride height, and move the wishbone up and down with a jack. You will then see the wheel turn. This is bump steer. Position the steering arm in the best place possible so that over the range of normal motion, the steering change is minimised.

Its got nothing to do with the steering arm being level at normal ride height.

Bump steer can also be resolved by moving the inner steering arm pivot point inwards or outwards with rack adjusters.

 

Dave, you've bought RobT's old hubs there?

 

Nope

 

Nope I have them

 

Since people have only mentioned bumpsteer and corrected you on that front I will fill the rest in with my limited knowledge

In a strut type suspension the arm being lower than the pivot point result in the rollcentre dropping below ground
I am sure there can be some occasions where this is benefit (it potentially unloads the outer wheel, though that will normally encourge front slip manifesting in understeer) but more important for a balanced handling car is to have the front roll centre set around 1/3 vs 2/3 front to rear. Otherwise the car can experience variable handling at different parts of the corner

I believe it is possible to have both front and rear below ground using a Mumford link, but obviously that isn't relevant to a us, and to be honest I do not know if it is a good or bad thing

 

Yeah thats what i was trying to explain,bumpsteer is one thing but for roll centre and camber gain its best to have the Ball joint as low as possible. I.e arm pointing down as much as possible. This should put the roll centre closer to the centre of gravity and reduce roll.

Sent from my E2303 using Tapatalk

 

Sorry to bump in but anyone interested in these? :-)

 

They look a lot like what I had made

 

Yes, they are loosely based on yours and oem units :-D

 

From what i can see here yours ar shorter, i tried to give some more track width and camber .. hoping that wont make them weaker.

 

You might get problems with the clearance to the brake disc, depending on how log you choose the bolt.
Why is the ball joint moved upwards? Looking at the stability of the part it would be better to have the center of the ball joint at the same horizontal level like the fixing points.

I have designed a solution for VR6 hubs some time ago, where the bolt axis is turned into nearly vertical position. But it never came to the point to get them manufactured...

 

Do you have any scratch of them? I agree with you, i think i'll go with shorter version like RobT ones, made a prototype and check clearances and fitting.
OR, this is a big OR... the machiner just told me that it's easier to go straightly with a pair of these and settle things once and for all...what do u guys think?

 

Their nice

 

Tidy looking piece of kit
What does it weigh ?
Seamless tube ?
How thick wall ?

 

Hi all, I'm looking for some
Ball joint extenders for my mk1 golf... So far the best ones I have seen are the scch the others don't look as strong for track use?

is there anyone who can make the scch style extenders in UK?

 

I don't believe this solution has been posted, but it is a viable option from my Mk I. This was done by a previous owner sometime in the late '80s-early '90s and has held up well since then.

 

Hi, sorry to resuscitate that topic but one year later i still have the same problem :-)
Custom wishbones and RobT ball joints are temporarely discarded due to realization costs, that would be around 500/600 for both solutions, plus hard to find someone who can fabricate them, at least here in italy.
So i spent some time looking at the OEM ball joint and i had an idea, why simply dont make an extension that dimensionally replicate the original one and that can be screwed and welded on it? That would be basically a cone and could come almost for free.
Thoughts?

 

That has been done before iirc. And I think Gurds or possibly Dave the engineer found a few nasty stress points on them.

 

johnny is the way then... :-(