Vr6 turbo conversion Help please.

Discussion in 'VR5, VR6 & Wx' started by rabnmaz, Feb 26, 2009.

  1. rabnmaz New Member

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    Just on collecting parts to do me turbo conversion on my vento vr6..
    Got the manifold and various pipes, want to know what turbo to get and intercooler size, only running low boost for NOW....
    Its a T3/T4 manifold.
    Do you think i should leave the engine or do some work on it, know there plenty done running low boost on a stock engine so some help or ideas will be great, thanks alot and i will wait for the replys....
     
  2. RallyeVR6

    RallyeVR6 Forum Junkie

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    Definatly do the Chains and Guides if they have not been done recently. I would also put a spacer gasket on it and put ARP rod bolts in, just to add a bit more strength in the bottom end.

    On the VR6T i've put together, I've used a T3/4 hybrid turbo - Its currently running about 10psi with some very good results and pulls very hard. It should be good to provide 400odd bhp with it making boost at abotu 2.5k revs - which is almost enough for anyone.
     
  3. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I can back up what RallyeVR6 says. We got a VR6T in the camp with this set-up.
    Stock engine, with new guides and chains. Fresh rings and bearings. STD VW bottom end fastners, ARP head studs and spacer plate. VW did an update to the guides post 96 so suggest to obtain from dealer. Headgear is STD.
    On the 'Huffed' side of things we used the STD inlet with the throttle entry point modified to enter from the passenger side. Exhaust manifold from ATP Huffer T4/T3 or TO4E with a T3 type back end. Fuel pump. Ebay intercooler and custom made boost piping.
    Engine controller = Megasquirt 1 V3 board Extra connected to stock engine sensors and actuators.
    Injectors 440cc/min.
    First rough calibration shows boost kicking in at 2200-2500rpm. Boost clamped at 6psi until further mapping can take place.
    The kick at 2200rpm or greater is very immense and I am confident that the T04E compressor has got the airflow capablity, so that at 15psi of pressure the engine could get to 320-340lbft over a rev range of 2800-4500rpm or so on std cams then start to taper off until 6000rpm or so. This would lead to a very monstrous feel. One that will ensure you either install a LSD or full a 4WD drive set-up. Goes without say that your suspension and brakes better be up to par!
     
  4. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    Spacer plates are officially **** for VR6's, I talk from experience! It lasted all of 10 mins, with and OE gasket either side.. On a freshly skimmed head and true block..

    Get low comp pistons.. The rods are fine for good power..
     
  5. RallyeVR6

    RallyeVR6 Forum Junkie

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    I talk from expirence too, and have not had a problem with them.

    And not just the Rallye VR6T I've built, but several others I've seen too.

    Mind you, I have Head studded that car also, so maybe thats worth considering?


    I agree i the long term, and if its higher boost, you wanna go with Low comp pistons etc is the way the go, but with the cost of low comp pistons (and rings to go with them) factored in, I have honestly not had an issue with a spacer plate and thats where I would go everytime for a "low boost setup".


    EDIT: On the fueling side of things, again I concor with Toyotec on the injectors, but instead of running megasquirt, we're still running Standard ECU with C2 chip and inlet hardware.
    Not had a chance to test it on quarter mile, but it currently runs and fuels very well indeed. The same set up I have has been accredited for a 0.7 drop in quarter mile time when switching to it from a previous set up
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2009
  6. rabnmaz New Member

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    Cheers people, well thats sounds fine will order me chain and bits in the morning and get to work stripping it down, what the best place for the head spacer and apr head or rods bolts, also how much was the c2 chip? and which 1 do i want??

    Or and what size intercooler and pipe would be best, ive seen a turbo thats 57mm inlet and oulet, will that be ok or should i get a bigger type, pipework and intercooler are on ebay in various sizes, looking at a 550/140/76mm think that will be ok or not ???

    Sorry for all the questions but dont wanna buy the wrong parts or have problems when it running. Thanks again.
     
  7. rabnmaz New Member

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    Scrap that previous remark, the turbo is 75mm inlet and 50mm outlet will that be ok ??
     
  8. RallyeVR6

    RallyeVR6 Forum Junkie

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    You have PM.
     
  9. baker57 Forum Member

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    If im wright c2 chip prices depends on the chip stage ,1,2,or 3. I went for stage 3 runs with green top 440# injectors, your looking around 400 for stage 3 plus the large maf housing, also if i remember stage 1 or 2 runs with smaller injectors. . . .less poke
     
  10. speedygti8v

    speedygti8v Forum Member

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    whats so special about the c2 chip can't you just get it remapped or do they do something else[:s]
     
  11. rabnmaz New Member

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    If you can do it that way what chip should i get ???
    What the best place to pick the oil feed for the turbo up, will tap the sump for the return so thats ok, just want to know what people suggest, cheers people.
     
  12. Rigs Paid Member Paid Member

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    The C2 chip is essentially a remap of the stock CPU but it's a lot cheaper than a custom remap. Also it's a very tried and tested setup and proven reliable (I use it)

    A custom map of the stock ecu is likely to cost twice that and may or may not be as good.

    Custom management including setup will be 1500+.

    There are a couple of turbo specialist in the UK that supply flanges for oil pickup on various turbos. Google is your friend :)
     
  13. rabnmaz New Member

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    Looking at a 19 row oil cooler kit with a t piece for the oil feed line for the turbo, is that the best place to take the oil feed from???
     
  14. Rigs Paid Member Paid Member

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    T-peice in one of the sensor outlets on the filter housing is easy...
     
  15. rabnmaz New Member

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    ok thanks, that what im gona do just waiting on a adaptor.
     
  16. rabnmaz New Member

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    got most of my parts now and the head spacer just came to, do i just need a standard headgasket now then and just split it and swap the middle layer or what.???

    anybody got any apr headbolts and rodolts for sale need some asap???
     
  17. baker57 Forum Member

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    i see your moving fast aint yah.... Ok you need to get the metal type gasket (crush gasket) iv forgot the part number but im sure some nice chap on here will provide it later. Once you have the gasket you will need to remove the rivets bein careful not to damage the gasket, i used a diamond file. You then keep the top and bottom get rid of the middle layer and replace it with your steel head spacer. No need to rivet it back up. Afthe that you then need to kick back and injoy a cup of coffee lool
     
  18. jims13 Forum Member

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    well, that was me that dropped 0.7 sec on the quarter mile.. my quickest to date is now a 13.42 , i have no lsd, and dont get traction until 3rd, when it prompt;y tries to steer me into the wall :)

    as said before c2 software works well and is proven, its also a fair bit cheaper than standalone.

    for reference im using a t4oe divided housing turbo , spa manifold, miltek exhaust, fmic, custom pipework, schimmek 263 cams, headspacer and arp head bolts.. im running 15 psi.. and it pulls like nothing else ive been in.. its on the rr saturday , so ill have some figures then.. i did this all bar the ecu , for under a grand.. check out my thread on the vr6oc..
     

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