W/B Bolt - Its OUT!!!

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Richard Mk2, Sep 24, 2010.

  1. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Are there any local CGTIer's who would help me next weekend to get that annoying broken wishbone bolt out of my subframe.

    Ive literally tried everything and failed each time, badly [:^(]. Need someone who knows what they are doing tbh ;)

    Just need to get this out the way so i get it MOT'd ect and get it on the road...

    Would be much appreciated and would sort you out for doing it.

    Im 5mins from Uxbridge/slough/M25 juct 17...

    Cheers
     
  2. danTbone Forum Member

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    if its the rear bolt on the wishbone you will need to open or cut the floor plan from inside the car, there is a cover you can remove but might have to trim a bit out to get better access to it , re weld the bolt or use some grips on it
     
  3. WillG

    WillG Forum Member

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    or would a new subframe be easier? [:s]
     
  4. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Subframes fine.... Its literally the bolt which goes through the big round bush on the rear of the wishbone. There is some of the bolt left sticking out, as the head snapped off it.
    To get to it though, you have to drop the subframe slightly, as you can see in the pic below...

    Ive tried grips on it, Irwins, even drilled a hole through it to get a screw driver in to twist it and it wouldn't budge.

    Dont really want to start cutting the floor to pieces either.

    [:^(]

    Here is a quick pic, will get more up tomorrow -

    [​IMG]
     
  5. danster Forum Addict

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    If you can drop the subframe down to get better access to the broken bolt that will be a good start.
    I would then weld (mig) too build up what is left of the broken bolt. The heat generated will be transmitted up the bolt threads getting to the corrosion and assist loosening the bolt. You will then have a larger stub to grip with vice grips and it will just unscrew. :thumbup:
     
  6. WillG

    WillG Forum Member

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    looks like you'll either need to weld a nut to it or cut the floor and put a new captive nut on it
     
  7. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    he has no power so you would need a genny as well
    or oxy acetylene welding set
     
  8. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    cheers for the replys everyone. Danster- that sounds like a good plan tbh. Ive got a generator so will have power but im not a welder unfortunately. What about if i was to give it some heat only? Would it wind out easily?
     
  9. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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    When Only VW did mine they did it with a realy neat small hole in the floor.
     
  10. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Might have to be an option if all else fails. I since replaced every other bolt with new replacements for piece of mind.;)
     
  11. danster Forum Addict

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    Heat from a blow torch is not ideal as it will tend to heat the whole area. The welder gets it just where it is needed.
    I remove broken studs in alloy heads with this method too. You just give it a lot of short bursts every couple of seconds and build up the metal. Be careful not to weld the stud to the subframe though! This will make the stud cherry red and burn off the corrosion. It may take a couple of attempts but it will come out.
    Even a small portable mig would do the job, that would easily be powered off a generator.
     
  12. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Any cgti welders local then ;)
    Sounds like a good plan Dan. I just really want this little f***er out of there, its the only thing holding the project back.
     
  13. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    yep id drop the frame off , get a large washer that fits over the bolt and weld it good on full power , then weld a nut to the washer

    the heat should break the rus
     
  14. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yea it looks like i'll have to drop it. Only thing is supporting the engine as i borrowed it before. I can drop one end slightly which will give me some room. Its just the most annoying problem to have on a mk2!
     
  15. danster Forum Addict

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    The problem would be far worse if the captive nut was turning inside the chassis leg / member.
    Some folk would love to have the problem you have! :lol:
     
  16. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Lol im glad its not spinning, just so annoying when you cant fix something though. Will definately try everything said in this thread above. Need to make a homemade engine support now if i drop the subframe completely! :thumbup:
     
  17. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Going to have a go at this tomorrow. Ive bought a small blow torch so going to give it some heat.

    If not the floor is getting cut out [:x] [:D]
     
  18. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Just spent the last two hours trying to get the bolt out.

    I had it glowng red using the blowtorch and tried to ease it out with a pair of grips, and its still stuck fast. [:x]

    Here is a couple of pics -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Its in such an awkward place. You can see where i drilled a hole through it before to try and lever it, which also failed...

    HHHHHEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  19. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    pair of grips isnt really suitable ...think how tight the bolts are when its all in good condition , youd probably be wanting a 18" breaker bar to loosen em so grips aint gona do it imo

    have you tried irwins and a decent bar?

    id also have the subby off out of the way
     
  20. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thats true. I did try the irwins on it before and they failed to.

    Plus as you can see from the pic, most of the thread has been rounded from various attempts to loosen it...

    I would remove the subby if i had an engine crane handy to support the engine. :thumbup:
     

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