Anyhow, i managed to get rid of the old problems, but now the problem is the horribly high idle rpm , the car goes 30 km/h with 2nd gear(4 speed gearbox), without pressing the gas at all ( dunno exactly how high the rpm is , the car has no tachometer) , and as far as i see, the thingy for regulating idle rpm doesn't seem to work either , or i'm so retarded that i was touching some wrong screw... So i was wondering could someone give a photo of exactly wich thing i'm supposed to turn, and to what direction, to reduce idle rpm. The car is a 1985 VW Jetta Coupe with Pierburg carb (has 2E written on it) Thanks in advance.
On the side of the carb there should be 2 holes, 1 for the air flow and another for the fuel, the biggest hole with the biggest screw should be the fuel and another smaller just below it for the air mixture, both of these need to be used to set the idle speed you will have to do this by ear as no rev counter but you should be able to hear the engine note getting lower/slower. When the car is running turn the screws either way untill there is a different note, if it speeds up obviously turn it in the opposite direction lol and you will be able to balance them out, if you have to take the air box of to do this remember to set it slightly higher beacause the box restricts flow when on the carb! Hope this is some help to you? Dan
I was trying to do it with the #13 on this picture... no effect whatsoever. The bolt actually almost came out, but that lil' thingy that's supposed to move on other side didn't move as much as i could tell...
Hi Mr47, that is the correct adjustment for the idle speed, but will only work if one or two other things are behaving themselves. Three main possibilities here. I imagine you've found the 2e2 FAQ by now, and have read about some of these things. If this is a sudden change in the car's behaviour, suspect an electrical cause, namely a broken wire going to the thermal-time valve (11, above) which has a two-pin connector on one side of a round black disc-shaped thing, and two vacuum pipes coming out of the other side. If this isn't getting it's 'juice' it will result in the primary throttle being held quite a way open, for much longer after a cold start than it should be. If the ambient temperature is above about 15C this is unlikely to be the trouble though. This fault could also be caused by a leaking vacuum pipe to, or from this valve. You can see the electrical connection (with rubber boot), and this 'disc' on the left hand side of this image: http://www.zen62266.zen.co.uk/images/golf/pierburg2e2/pier5.jpg A second possibility is that your automatic choke is malfunctioning due to an o-ring in the manifold coolant circuit failing and blocking the flow of hot water. Rubjonny's FAQ deals with this thoroughly, unfortunately the fix isn't all that easy as it involves inlet manifold removal. You can assess the problem here by feeling the temperature of the autochoke water housing (#10 in your pic). From a cold start, it should get too hot to touch after only about 6 or 7 minutes of engine running. If it never gets this hot, or only does so very slowly, you really need to get a new o-ring in there. Third, and most likely, in my view, is that your waxstat has failed. This is an expansion element on the front of the carburettor near the small heater. After years of doing good work these can fail by means of the wax escaping past a split rubber boot within the device, and slowly seeping out past the seals. You can diagnose this by looking at the device in the bottom of the above photo - the 3-point unit, when the engine is fully up to operating temperature. If the actuator/pushrod is not touching the sheared-off-headed screw that pokes through that right-angle bracket, then the primary throttle is being held in the 'warm-up' condition because the waxstat has failed to push a cam (on the other side of the carb) round to a position where it no longer affects the idle. Does the idle speed eventually come down to a sensible rate, after say 20 minutes of driving, or stay sky high even then? P.S. Hawkesybaby has a different type of carburettor, I think.
Well... it was sort of sudden, it happend after i took the carb to pieces and cleaned it and put it back together... The electrical wires seem to be good tho. The outdoors temperature was somewhere about 12C i guess. The vacum pipes did seem to be in fairly good shape. I did get a new o'ring , but i decided i ain't gonna try to remove the inlet manifold,as it seemed pretty complicated. The choke is supposed to operate this flap on top of the carb right? Well, that flap is more or less jammed... it was completely closed before, but then it was causing soot on the spark plugs and the idle was really poor @ warm temperatures + the engine was stuttering fairly often.Therefor i set it in the "open" position now, and all the old problems are gone... And the long thing on the "3 point unit" is touching the screw, and it was still touching the screw , no matter wich way i turned that #13 bolt. when i had the engine turned off... i tried to take a closer look at the bolt, but the bolt actually came loose after turning it so much, so i put it back in and turned it really little, and turned engine on... no diffrence whatsoever... more or less turned the bolt quite a lot to both ways, but didn't do anything. I couldn't get a closer look at the wax thingy as it was stuck in that metal thingy with 2 pipe connections and didn't come out when i shaked it or whatever... I did drive around for say 10-15 minutes, and when i came back to garage, i'd say the idle was the same, if not even higher than before. Oh yea, and in the beginning when i turned it on , it made more smoke than a steamtrain.... like horribly lots of white smoke coming from the exhaust... so i turned it off... waited like 20 min, went back... turned it on, no smoke whatsoever... But the engine seems to run really fine other than the horrible high rpm, was stuttering a lot during acceleration before seting the flap/plate thingy to open. Anyhow, seems like i just traded 2 old problems for one new problem
OK, I didn't realise you'd had the carb in bits. One thing that can catch you out (it did me once) is when refitting the throttle cable, it is vital that the cable is completely slack when the engine is up to temperature, and your foot is off the accelerator pedal... That 'bolt' (#13) that almost came out has two o-rings on it which could be usefully replaced, if you have access to a selection, just take it right out and you'll see the ones. An air leak here could be putting the 3-point unit in the 'start' position of about 14mm extension? Normal running position should have about 8-9mm of that actuator/pushrod sticking out.
Well, the throttle cable seems to have pretty much of slack , seems to be about the same it had before. But yea, i don't have those o'rings for the 3-point unit. But i got this silly idea now... isn't it possible to move that thingy that looks like a headless screw? Perhaps compensate for the pushrod being too far out?
Yeah, you could move that, or bend the bracket it goes through, might have unwanted effects on the start-up behaviour though. First double-check the vacuum hoses round the back, particularly the one that comes from the right hand vac source at the bottom of this picture: It tees off to the 3-point unit and TTV. It has a restrictor/jet in there that makes for a very small hole, around 0.5mm. This might also be partly or fully blocked. I think the o-rings are relatively unlikely to be your problem, even in a 22 year-old 3-point unit. You could test it by putting a long length of hose on the lowermost, rearmost vac connection of the 3-point unit, sucking on it, and seeing if the 3-point unit's actuator withdraws, and holds position (i.e. vacuum).
Anyhow, the problem was that i forgot to add this little piece that goes between the waxstat and the spindle on other side. And thanks to EZ_Pete who helped me with finding out the problem.
