Hello all just wondering if anyone cant shed any light, fitted a weber carb 32/34 dtml over the weekend, took ages to set up. Refurbed it with a weber kit, new everything besides the floats. Didnt do anything with the floats because thought they were set up correctly, well it flooded the carb and soaked the plugs at first. The floats were then set to the correct height, no fuel came though them at all then!!! so trial and error and about 10mm it seems to work fine. How ever after running for while it idle's too fast, it drives great and the throttle response is far batter than the pierburg 2e2, im just wondering if i have connected all the air pipes correctly?? its confusing me slightly, this is the first golf i have worked on...can anyone clarify what pipes should go into the weber? This may sound stupid but just how critical is the height of the floats, i put them to the weber manual spec 7mm and that didn't work at all!! now i can gather that too much is also as bad, how much difference would them being 1 mm out the wrong way cause? I read this on here 'If pulling on some choke did make the symptoms go away, it would suggest a problem with the idle fuel system, possibly caused by icing, possibly something else. The reason this works is that by pulling on some choke, you involve the main jet more, so if the idle fuel isn't getting through, it'll still get some' Now my idle will slow if i pull the choke out, when hot, but wont drive correctly until i push it back in... it's dead frustrating as i feel im nearly there.. any help greatly appreciated thanks
I would get a garage to set the idle and CO levels properly since you've refurbed it, as the idle and mixture screws will have been removed as part of the refurb process. Doesn't sound like a fundamental problem, more a set up problem. For the vac line connections read the thread started by nathan in this section and remeber that any spare vac connections left over need to be blocked (you may have some spare after removing the pierburg)
hi HI thanks for replying, i did the refurb myslef with a genuine weber kit, i didnt remove either of the idle or mixture screw. should i have? i will get it tuned asap and also reading nathans post was of great help, i have been really confused in regards to the ari box, i have it off a the moment apart form the top bit , none of the rest is attached , i will sort this out now thanks steve
The screws should be removed to check the condition of the tips but I'd leave them for now seeing as the carb works and probably only needs fine tuning. You shouldn't run without an air filter of some sort, the factory airbox controls the air inlet temp as well as holding the filter.
hi So i will get chance to do this tonight as i didn't last night, my quick findings were that whilst th engine was running and idling too fast, turnig the idle adjustment made no differance , does this confirm that its dragging in air from other sources? or that the system is not air tight as it should be... i hope this fixes it as it runs great , just idles too fast, or may it be floats need turning down a notch....
The idle screw adjusts how much fuel gets through to the idle drilling by blocking it either more or less - it has a tapered end so screwing it out lets more fuel in and vice versa. Its not really adjustable yourself to the exact correct settings (although it could be adjusted to a point where the car seems improved) unless you've got a gas analyser as it affects the emissions levels of the car and needs to be adjusted in unison with the mixture screw. Although having said that some people have good results doing it themselves with a Gunson Colourtune kit. Asking a garage to tune it will be the simplest (the garage I use charge 20 for this)
going mad Hay couldnt find a garge open after 12 to tune it, so that will be monday, its using a ton of fuel, and the idle screw doesnt seem to make any differance if its in or out.. the mixture screw still affects the idle. Any thoughts? i have put the orignal air box back on it, and conencted all the pipes as per drawings shown. One thing i have noticed is that whe i looked into the air pipes there was no flap in the pipe there was a small metal rod going down it , no flap... is it a case of taking it off and starting again ?? are the floats too high? thanks
It is hinged in the bottom of part 1 on the piccie. Its normal resting place is flat for cold air, vacuum pulls it up for warm air. There should be a vertical rod to pull it up if you look down the cold air end.
flap? Hay when i look down it all i see is a metal rod , nothing else, i have tweaked the mixture a bit and its running slighty better, i will get it tuned up today or tommoz though.. will getting the bolt on k&n help the matter? thanks for your time
Twist and pull off the hot air plastic elbow and try to push the flap from below (if its there) suppose it could have been removed to bodge cure a sick carb in the past. If it is there you should be able to move it freely with your fingers and it should snap shut when the vac pipe is removed. A bolt on K&N wont help and it might promote carb icing in the cooler months. Look up the thread by EZ Pete called 'talking hot air' for advice about the thermostat that controls the flap as this needs to be in good order too.
better HAY been for a tune and timing check 47!!!, what the hell !! sounds and feels a lot better... only thing now it has a slight run on ... il check the forum as i se this has been spoken about elsewhere, i have no flap in the air tube, il have to go poke about a scrappy i think? or can you buy that bit ? thanks
47. I'd take it back about the run on for that price!!!! The dealer would probably want to sell you the entire flap mechanism. Maybe you could make a flap?? The rod you can see pulls it up and down and its hinged horizontaly across the front bottom of the cold air intake so it closes over the top of the hot. When not subject to vacuum it should spring shut to maximum cold air.
throttle cable i think i have found out my over revving issue!!! i noticed that the throttle cable is slightly sticking... when its revving too high if i out my foot under the pedal and press in back it drops to the correct rpm i feel like a fool....
