I don't think my weber is setup too good at the moment the engine doesnt seem as powerful as it used to be it's really silky smooth but seems bit low on grunt (when it was first fitted a few years ago it seemed to have a bit more umph maybe its running too rich or something i'd rather have it running lumpy and more powerful tbh so whats the best way to go about setting it up like this?
give it a good clean up with some carb cleaner. Then there are 4 jets on the top, unscrew them out, make a note of which holes they went in, 2 of the jets will have bits that pull off the bottom, they are also jets/air correctors, also make a note where they came from. then have a look on ebay for some new jets all bout 99p - 1.50 buy jets with the same numbers on as theones you have got. also a fresh set of plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm wouldnt give a miss.
you can go with a clean up with carb cleaner ..and get a garage to set the c/o to around 2% or if you think its really poorly get a rolling road to set it up, they can fit differant jets to optimize its performance through the rev range
co2 was last setup by a garage in summer so with colder / damper conditions i imagine stuff has changed plugs are only about a month old i have a big can of wynns carb cleaner so will give that a go distributer cap and rotor arm .. no idea how old they are .... (actually cap is bout 5 ish years old) ... since i posted this thread i got impatient and started tweaking settings changed mixture then went for a quick run which features urban and main A roads then repeated .... first setting felt more responsive but the exhaust popped on deceleration second setting eliminated popping probably all messed up now tho lol.... drives alright just needs idle speed brought up again -ALSO when co2 was set at garage i think the guy brought it lower than 2.0% and the A/F ratio showed to be about 16:1 16:1 is lean, so is this what you want for idle?
fuel consumption and emissions thats ok, but engine wise not - could cause overheatin probs as the bore wouldnt be as lubracated with fuel as it normally is.
i did it myself weeks ago.. but its still suffering idles fine when warm .. but suffers mild icing in morning and evenings causing idle to drop to very low then stall over past few weeks i've taken dash out, fitted new matrix and pipes, fitted replacement heater blower (got to be easiest thing ever), new dizzy cap, new rotor, binned k&n bolt on, bought 2nd hand airbox and fitted it after a clean, oil the warm air flap hinge, new paper air filter, connected all vac hoses correctly, fitted new insulated warm air pipe plugs are only about a month old leads are blue ignitor items from c&r few years ago *NEED* part throttle heater and the round mounting plate for top of the weber carb to airbox
Dono's managed to order one of these from VW, around 30 + VAT IIRC. Details in the "My engine cuts out..." FAQ thread. (If you haven't already tried it) try 'shorting out' the airbox thermostat by disconnecting both of the vac hoses that go to it and connecting them together. The thermostat may well be gunged up with breather 'oil'.
explain the vac hose thing a little more pete or link me to one of your essays cheers it could be: that the poor fit between weber and airbox is the cause or the thermostat like you mentioned or the flap could be rusted well and truly (tried opening the surrounding airbox joins but it wouldn't have it) or the lack of part throttle heater
"Essays" lol. I'll try to be brief... The thermostat, if working correctly, varies the amount of vacuum it sends to the diaphragm that moves the flap, to keep itself (i.e. the intake air) at a steady 20C approx. If its internals are clogged with oil/crud from the crankcase ventilator it won't be able to do this well, if at all. If the vac hose that goes from thermostat to carb is transparent, you may be able to see evidence of the oil/crud having been sucked through the thermostat. If you bypass it by joining together the vac hoses that would have gone to it, there's vacuum on the flap diaphragm all the time the engine's running, so the flap will stay in the up/warmed-air position*. If your problem goes away you've at least proved it is icing, and probably proved that the thermostat needs attention/replacement. *Unless it is seized, or the diaphragm is bust.
how does it move to the up position with the vac hose disconnected? u have a hose from the carb to thermostat? and one from thermostat to flap?
He means direct connection from carb to flap - bypassing the thermostat that may or may not be controlling your flap. The permanant vacuum to the flap from the back of the carb would then make the flap stay constantly in the hot air position unless seized toward cold air.
thanks for making that clearer maximo! will do this in a few minutes and run them joined tommorrow during the commute to and from work to check
What's not clear about that? Sorry Ben, I'm only just learning that a picture's worth a thousand words, and I've gotta get my new phone-wid-camera going...
yea you lolz if i remember you are the master of taking blurred pics when trying to show details anyways... is the flap supposed to move at idle as it doesnt at present with the hoses now joined I just changed the oil & filter with some of the oil made up of 1 litre of atf .. it's all go at the mo i tells ya lol drove round with the new oil for bout 4 mile trip and the vac hoses bypassing the thermo. when car was back on drive idle seemed a lil low so i wound the mixture screw out abit and seems better
Sounds like yor flap is siezed, mine was too. You should be able to push it up with your fingers using the rod easily (full warm air), and it should snap back closed (full cold air) under spring pressure. Took me a few days of working the flap with WD40 and spray grease to get it smooth and working under vacuum. Also had to break one of the plastic hinge clips on the side of the unit to relieve the pressure on the rusted flap spindle.
