Hello, as some of you know I'm not exactly the best mechanic, but I decided to pop the bonnet earlier to top the expansion tank up. I took each HT lead off 1 at a time at the block, wiping the tip of the plugs with a clean rag. Then it wouldn't start, just turn over. The leads are pretty old, & torn on some of the rubber sections. I've removed the dizzy cap & rotor arm. The inside points in the actual cap itself look like there are a line scored into the points? Will get new leads, dizzy cap & rotor arm. I am having trouble removing the metal ring under the rotor arm. I can see a circular clip on the shaft itself, does this need to be removed to lift the ring? & also where is the hull sensor?(I read this may need a clean?) Decided to unclip the black plastic pipework connecting the auxiliary air regulator to the unit holding the fuel distributor(that sits on the air filter box). Removed my filter which is basically black with dirt. The actual casing itself was full of a sh***y sludge & even a Stanley blade!?! I've never even opened it since buying it! : \ Ive cleaned the box now ready for the new air filter I'll get with the other bits. The black corrugated plastic pipe that goes from the bottom of the filter box is kinked to high hell, can I get one from GSF say? I also need the smaller water pipe that runs from the top of expansion tank to the top left hand side of the radiator. To be honest I would like to replace all the water pipes if possible. I am also wondering about the metal wires running from the fuel distibutor to the injectors? Am I not to remove these?, if they are under pressure or contain fuel I'll leave it alone, I just want to remove & clean/replace every bit of the engine bay also the fuel filter in the haynes manual shows a clear acorn shape filter that's like an online filter but on the engine diagram & also mine; the fuel filter is next to the fuel distributor (silver cylinder shape looks abit like the coil? Do I have an inline filter on mine? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
The hoses from the top of the airbox are fuel lines, I'd leave them alone for now. Don't remove the ring under the rotor arm, you don't need to. Insert a new rotor arm in the same position the current one is. The hall sender plug could do with being disconnected and clean the contacts. I hope you marked where the rotor arm or left it in place so the car will remain timed for when you come to start it up. Ignore the inline filter in the Haynes, you have the metal one that is as you described.
hi mate, thanks for the reply. I won't bother taking that ring out then, or touch the fuel lines. I'll get the parts later today, & the rotor arm only fits on one way & I haven't turned the engine over with it off, so should be ok with the timing issue(fingers crossed) sorry if I sound stupid but which is the hall sender plug? If I were to replace this fuel filter, would I need to do anything before unscrewing the filter, ie will fuel come out when unplugged?
The fuel will be under pressure so just loosen the bolt, wrap a rag round then loosen some more until the pressure drops and fuel stops coming out. The pipe to the bottom of the airbox is now obsolete, so try and straighten yours the best you can. It is ok to remove it if its restricting airflow, but tbh its better on to give a cold air feed, rather than sucking in hot air from the bay. While your at it you may as well replace the air filter with a standard paper one and spark plugs too if your not tight for cash. These along with the other things you mentioned could potentially transform how it runs.
Hi, thanks for the reply. I'll take the pipe off & try to straighten it out best I can. I wonder if I could find an old vacuum hose with the same diameter hole I'm not sure what you mean about a paper filter? Mine is a rectangle shape with card(?) fins & an orange rubber top? Is that the one you mean or is it something else? I got some new plugs put in not so long ago, I literally just pulled each lead off 1 by 1 & then it wouldn't start, so yeah with all the new leads & bits hopefully it will start & run abit smoother
