Wheel downsize means brake downsize - Good Idea?

This is a very good point as it's just for fun so if the brakes start to fade then I can slow down / stop and give them a rest.

I want to make everything off the shelf and easy to source for fairy cheap so it looks like the 288 set up is going to happen.

Thanks

 

For track use you can remove those dustplates, so the heat from the disc can radiate more free to the air

 

I might make the ducts mount to where the dust tins do now and remove the tins completely.

I'll have a look after work and see how I can make them work.

Thanks

 

Problem with that ducting is you are pretty much blowing on to the surface, which can lead to a bit of temp differentiation so discs are more prone to cracking
Of course getting the air into the centre is also a PITA because we have a CV in the way (!)
When it comes to open vs brake shields I think (personal) that done right they are better, if you look at the sort of things they have on most pro built cars they blow air into the caliper and the disc hub and cool both (and sometimes a third duct), but for us it is probably best with them off and a simple tube placed (and secured) pretty well deep into the centre of the disc

 

I don't use VR6 hubs, I use modifed 4 stud hubs..

 

I'll get the car on the ramp and see what I can do, thanks for your input

 

ok no worries, gutted they won't work with my hubs as I already have them in stock.

I'll just buy some VR6 brakes.

Cheers

 

Sorry about the delay

Yokohama a048r two
195 50 15
Three 205 50 15

35 each or all 5 for 140

 

I'll get back to you asap, need to get the 15" wheels mocked up before getting tyres.

Cheers

 

I run OE brake sizing with no issues on track. But I run Porterfield R4 pads and shoes with Brembo rotor and drum castings.

I brake in half the distance of most... but the final disclaimer is that I am very horsepower limited.