Hi guys, its a 1.8 KR with an 020 box. Whats the correct way round this plate should go, just want someone to verify? I thought it was just my clutch stuck in after being left for so long but Im starting to think there was more going on. As when I depressed the clutch I could feel nothing other than the internal spring in the box for the clutch arm. It feels like the push rod isnt engaging the pressure plate at all. Yet it all worked fine when I took it off the first time? This way - (which is how I had put it in before) Or this way- Hard to see from vw diagram.
Yeah thats what I thought, looking at the wear marks from the push rod. Basically the problem I was having was quite strange. I thought it was just the clutch stuck disengaged. But when I pulled the clutch arm up it stopped as it should at about 9pm but the movement felt really light, all I could feel was the internal spring in the box putting any resistance against the arm. Surely this movement should be moving the pressure plate?? Its like the push rod wasnt hitting the pressure plate, or would I get this from the clutch being stuck? Since Ive removed everything, Im gonna clean it all back up, re assemble it and hopefully it should solve the problem? Once thing Id like to know though, is say the clutch was stuck then surely when I depressed the clutch and the arm moved up it would be hitting the pressure plate? And I;d feel a lot more resistance? Cheers for any help guys, Ive got to put the box back in tonight and I wanna make sure its all ok
1st pic is correct as said, make sure the sticky out side of friction disc faces outwards before bolting flywheel on. I suspect the clutch release finger has a crack in it, or the pushrod is too short: release arm check, pushrod measurements frther down release bearing & clutch finger checks
Ive been looking through brokes site. The finger seems fine as when I move the clutch arm by hand the push rod comes out fine and goes back in fine (when you push it back in, I take it the pressure plate normally pushes this back). So why am I not feeling anything on the clutch arm when I pull it up? Could it literally be just because the friction plate was stuck? Maybe Ill put it back together tonight and try it to see what happens, just didnt know if it was a common problem or not? Cheers for the help
Oh yeh, the two other things I forgot to mention are - What are the torque settings for the hex looking bolts that hold the fly wheel bit together and the the torque settings for the 6 inner bolts if you know what I mean? And does anyone know of an easy way to get a lost speedo drive out the box without taking it apart?
clicky! http://www.iol.ie/~kilkennyhockey/BentleyManual/ as for speedo drive, tip the box upside down and wiggle. make sure the oil is drained 1st I recon its probably the pushrod, i had same issue on mine and it was a crushed pushrod
Superb!! Exactly what I was looking for, Ive never bothered with a clutch alignment tool before on cars, is it necessary to do so. Also is it vital to replace the 6 large bolts that hold it all to the crank? Are they just usual bolts I can get from a local screw shop or are they vw specific?
not at all, the only reason you use it is to make it easy to fit the gearbox. if its off centre it wont go on! as soon as you press the clutch pedal it will self-centre crank bolts are use once, fly bolts can be re-used as long as you know they have not been over-tightened. I've yet to find anywhere that does the 6 crank bolts seperate This is why I always buy sachs clutch kits as they're included
Just reading through this page on installing the clutch and now Im confused. It says bout 3/4 down "NOTE- The projecting part of the clutch hub faces the flywheel, away from the engine." Do they mean the friction plate or are they talking about the lil bit that is held in place by the large circlip? As below the say the friction plate is the "clutch disc" If so what way does that lil thing go?
they mean the friction disc, the bit with the spliney hole the sticky out side of spliney hole faces outwards
Yeah thats what I thought, just trying to rule out anything that might be causing me the problem. Gonna measure my pushrod tonight to see if thats the problem. Im hoping it was just the stuck clutch against the flywheel that was causing all the problem. Dont wanna have to be taking the box out again in the near future.
Lifting the arm up to 9:00 is very light, just the small internal spring on the arm is all you feel. When it gets to 9:00, the parts are all in contact with each other, and you can't lift it any higher, by hand. The cable will lift the arm from 9:00 to about 10:00.... anything above 9:00 and the PP starts to collapse. Up to 9:00, all you are doing is sliding the pushrod out of the trans and up against the release plate there, which then will collapse the spring fingers on the pressure plate, pulling the PP ring towards the engine, and allowing the clutch friction disc to float between the flywheel and PP on the splines of the input shaft. Flywheel bolts are 15 ft-lbs, no more. PP bolts are 22 ft-lbs, plus 1/4 turn, and those are one time use. The dealer should be able to get you just the PP bolts, I can get them from aftermarket places here (but they might just be getting them from VW, they look like VW bolts, pre-applied thread locker and so on) So far, it sounds like everything is normal, the arm is being lifted to 9:00 and then stops... the cable should pull it from 9:00 or about 10:00, or just under the 27mm selector cover. At that point, the PP will be collapsed and the clutch disengaged. Are those pics of the clutch parts in question, or just pics of an old engine in the shop? If there is rust on the input shaft splines like there is on the rest of those parts, that could cause the disc not to slide properly, and cause it to hang and drag and not fully disengage. Lube the splines, hand-fit the disc, slide it back and forth to run grease out of the splines, then wipe away the excess. Grease the end of the pushrod where it hits the release plate. Grease the backside of the release plate where the PP fingers contact it. As a matter of fact, I'd sand the rust of the tips of the fingers if those are the actual parts. Brian
For a second then I thought I'd taken it all apart for nothing But the clutch was stuck to the flywheel surface. Its been sat on the drive for a while so theres a bit of surface corrosion that i'm going to clean off tonight. Now I know it goes from 9 - 10 from the cable it all makes a bit more sense. Cheers for the replies guys.
