Can anyone tell me what the legal implications of having a widetrack golf, if there are any? Seeing as the car is 20mm wider across the back and 34mm wider across the front does it mean that it needs to be re-certified as its not to standard car dims? Also what about insurance - do you have to declare this too, I guess so. I bet its a nightmare when you start explaining there are 10mm spacers behind the back stub axles and the front is made up of mk3 parts... Please help?
Can't comment on the legal implications, but you have to declare ALL mods to your insurers, otherwise your insurance is invalid.
You could take the stance that (especially at the front) why would they even think to check if the wishbones are slightly wider than standard? There is nothing to suggest anything is amiss when you look at/under the car to make them look further. As long as your wheels/tyres aren't past the arches as a result the overall car dimensions remain the same.
So Its probably best to list all the suspension upgrades but not necessary to list the widetrack mods. The car has std BBS RA so the wheels are still well inside the G60 arches.
List everything, but don't make it complicated. Drown them in stuff they don't understand and they'll panic.
i've found that the way you phrase it when you talk to them can help. try to make it sound like you've upgraded for safety or braking rather than being able to corner faster, they're less likely to think you're some sort of hoon.
Anyone? good question really as virtually all of the widetrack threads are 'how to's' including the one I started. I cant say I have found any info which states distinct performance gains over std. Quite funny as i have just widetracked mine but havent quite got it completed to use it. Sometimes I question why I have bothered! Hopefully my doubts will be quashed when i get it on the road.
Increasing the front track should give improvements in feel, turn-in & lateral grip providing it's done properly! So whether you get any improvement will depend on what you do and how you do it Simon
Have done it super properly thanks to the advice of many knowledgeable people on here :0) On the brief drives I have done I have noticed the turn in is improved. Unfortunately the project stalled as I **** my back up messing around with binding Mk3 VR top mounts for 6 hours. From my experience they dont like wide track as the angle makes them grip the damper allowing the strut to rotate around it. Anyway I only slipped a disc didnt I! This Fri I'm taking off the VR mounts and fitting G60's instead. plus having the alignment done. So this weekend I should be out to play - with the appropriate ins of course...
Yea that comment was not aimed at anyone in particular, simply that some ways of achieving 'wide-track' are less than effective Ouch! Sorry to hear that. I think that's the first thing you notice to be honest but going back to the 'do it properly comment' on my MK2 I only extended the rear's by 5mm per side AND I don't run a front bar... It can be a bit 'skittish' if your not fully commited This is strange, the VR top mounts should be OK, I use them on my MK2 and Corrado ABF (also 'wide-track') and (of course) on the misses Corrado VR6 and I've never felt they were binding or not functioning correctly and I'm pretty (OK, very) an4l about stuff like that. It sounds like something is not quite right, maybe? Simon
uuuu kind of back on topic, from an construction and use / MOT point of view there are no legal implications. From an insurance point of view, personally I tell em I've changed the springs, dampers and alloys and leave it at that. I kind of take the view that I've only 'rummaged' in the VAG parts-bin a bit so what's the big deal. I guess it's down to each individual to decide how they want to approach it... Simon
when you think about it it's only an inch wider track, that results in a very small angular difference in the load applied to the damper arm, would this should this really cause problems?
ps when you're deviating from standard oe fitment for that model, they need to be told. if they made a widetrack mk2 then it's not so bad but they didn't afaik
Well the MK2 turret centres are closer together as well: - MK3 - 1116mm Corrado - 1084mm MK2 - 1080mm But I'd say 'no' I don't think there would be a problem and I've not had any issues with the vehicles I've done. Simon
I take the view if you've retained the 4 stud wheel fitment and used VAG parts (or quality aftermarket) then the insurance would be none the wiser if you had a prang anyway. and even if they did spot it any discrepancy they may highlight can be explained away by stating "parts were bought from supplier as being correct for a MK2 and replaced as routine maintenance of a 20+ year old car." also you have to remember a lot of old cars have parts discontinued, unavailable, import only etc etc and their owners have to substitute parts from other cars to keep them going so no insurer will be suprised by you doing this.
What could be wrong then? Gone a bit Off T here but hey.. I am using Bilstein B12 inverted shocks BTW. As you turn the wheels you can see that the strut turns but the damper is remaining in the same position - therefore the strut is turning around the damper causing stiff steering and eventually seal wear/failure of the damper/strut. The same thing happens with the nut and top plate removed in the engine bay - it still binds. It appears to be the increased angle causes the spring top plate to bind on the internal dia of the rubber doughnut. If you move the damper back a few degrees it frees up - but obviously I cant test it like that with it on the ground. Back on the ins I think I will advise them of the sus upgrades and ARB's but its not worth it for the Mk3 stuff as its very subtle
Nice choice of damper! OK some obvious/dumb questions: - Which spring top plate are you using the VR one is less 'pointy'. Is the bearing the right way up, if you have VR spring plates it's obvious, if not then it's not. I'll go shoot a couple of quick snaps. OK, so click on any of these for HUGE version... This is 16v/G60 Corrado: - VR6 Corrado (the parts I use): - This is a 40mm mono-tube (i.e. Bilstein) 'coil-over' but the top-mount is essentially the same: - Spring plate fitted, bearing ready to go on, that face goes 'down': - Rubber bush: - With rubber bush fitted: - And finally two angles of a std Corrado 16v top-mount Don't know if this is any help Simon
Cheers for the info Simon. I have exactly these parts and have built up as shown: Strut - top down: Lock nut Top plate Special nut Rubber donut Bearing - VR spring plate I am using the early VR spring plate (same size as Mk2 spring) on RH side below: The damper thread fits into the bearing and the shoulder rests on the metal face inside, the recess/serrated part is fitted facing down as per below: So why is it stopping the damper from rotating? I notice the Rubber donut that you have shown is slightly different - is that because it is Corrado?
