Will a wheel with a PCD of 4x98 fit a 4x100 (mk2) hub? Is there enough tolerence to get aaway with the 2mm difference?
http://cgi.ebay.ie/VW-alloy-wheel-bolts-variable-wobbly-4x98-to-4x100_W0QQitemZ250535376366QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET?hash=item3a551275ee
That's a good idea, I guess that I'd need to torque them up to double the recommended setting though? Thanks
if that's a fiat/italian fitment, bear in mind the centrebore is 58mm (as opposed to vw's 57.1), so the hub won't be supporting the wheel like it should but putting all the stress on the bolts. i'd want to fit some spigot rings if it was me.
You haven't thought this through, have you? Just get a 4ft breaker bar on the torque wrench for quad torque, use one bolt per wheel, newbs.
Hmm, I guess that would work but I'd feel safer with two, I was wondering if I could just make the bolt holes 1mm bigger & then use washers with the wheel bolts?
But as it's italian it's sure to be weaker than german, I reckon that although the italian hole is bigger the german one will still be stronger even though its smaller. I'd still use the VW wheel bolts which I'm sure will be far superior quality to Fiat ones so will have no trouble supporting a flimsy italian made wheel. Thanks for the advice though
Three things to consider - the wheel's centrebore, the wheel bolt hole diameters and the bolt seat profile. If the bolt hole seats are flat and there's enough tolerance on the bolt hole diameters, you might just get away with fitting the wheels, with the correct flat-seated bolts, if you can source them. As alexisblades99 says, you really want a good fitting centrebore to ensure that the wheel is concentric with the hub, since flat seat bolts will do nothing to align the rims to the hub. If the wheels have a tapered / conical seat and you don't want to go to the expense of wobbly bolts, I'd give up tbh. Trying to tighten a taper / radius seat bolt onto an eccentric hole will subject it to large bending forces; meaning that if they don't shear during tightening they'll very possibly fatigue and fail during use. A spanky set of Iti rims aren't worth the very real possibility of roof-surfing-flaming-death, tbh
I'm not sure that I understood even half of that but I'm thinking that perhaps it means that they won't fit. thanks Mike
The thought of you trying to ream out the holes with any sort of power tool fills me with dread. You're dangerous enough with a hammer, if I recall correctly. Open out the holes with a rat-tail file, if you elongate them properly they're bound to fit. Use the superior German bolts (of course!), but fit each with a copper sump plug washer, these will crush to the desired shape.
I like the sump plug washer idea although I was thinking that if I was careful I could elongate the holes with a 4.5" angle grander. I have also been considering getting around the centrebore problem by bracing the bolt holes with pieces of steel with bolt holes drilled in them so thus spreading the load across the whole centre of the wheel, CAD drawing below, the red bits (arrowed) are the braces-
Cheers, you can paypal me a couple of notes at your convenience. Seriously bud, steer well clear of the power tools. Mrs. Gaz won't be so sympathetic this time if something else gets "modified". That, I have to admit, is one of your better ideas. May I suggest you don't bother trying to fabricate the braces, but use Meccano. This would give you a degree of adjustability and open up the possibility of expanding into 5 and 6 hole fitments. At the risk of offending you i'll keep my comments about your "CAD" design to myself. Some things are best left to the experts.
I did experiment with meccano but unfortunately the holes aren't big enough to get the wheel bolts through & the standard meccano bolts kept snapping when I torqued them up. I was planning on using some strips of dexion shelving instead.
Dexion is pretty strong, get the stuff with the slotted holes, for maximum adjustability. I have to admit, I was hesitant in posting the Meccano idea. I'm more of a Lego man myself, though i'm not suggesting you use Lego, that would just be stupid. Thinking outside the box here, could you use the German bolts (which I assume are tapered), but not torque them up as much. The taper would take up any differences in PCD. It would also give you a wider track as the wheel wouldn't fully seat against the hub. A win/win situation.
That would be inherently dangerous due to the fact that the little screw that retains the brake disc is missing hence I would be running the risk of my brake disc falling off.
Actually having thought further I am now thinking that if the brake discs are "floating" slightly they would not be in permanent contact with pads under braking, this would give ABS stylee pulse braking effect.
