help does anyone have a wiring diagram showing the wires between ignition and coil for vw golf gti mk3 95 reg ady engine as i cant see any listing in haynes manual.reason is when we turn ignition on we get a short burst of crackling sound as if something is shortning.be very grateful if someone can help.
Many thanks to rubjonny for your posting. One more thing though if you could help please. My wife been trawling the net, and somebody has mentioned about a cable with 4 wires which is located under the ignition barrel which causes problems similar to mine. But they say I need to trace the cables from the connector at the ignition, back to the ecu which is under the carpet in the front of car. But is'nt the ecu in the bulkhead of the engine bay, where the wiper motor is, or did they put them in different locations depending on year of car. Or is there something under the carpet that I dont know about ? Any help appreciated.
hmm i wonder if they mean the immobiliser control box, does it kinda tick on and off a couple of times? the immob box should do this but its pretty quiet
hubby sez yes it does click and was wondering whether you would now where the normal position for this immoblizer box would be?.many thanks once again for your continued help.
its burried deep in the dash, real pain in the rear to get to. if you take the ign shroud off you'll see the key reader coil around the ign switch, follw the wire from this and you'll eventually find the immob box. could the clicking be coming from your fusebox? there are a few relays on there which might do it. if you turn ign on and off put a finger on each relay, you'll feel them click as they switch on & off. See if one of these is the cause of your noise
he sez number 30 relay does click as th e engine cuts out.the relay is brand new and genuine vw part.thinks something is telling that relay to shut down?
the 30 relay is the ecu relay, do the dash warning lights come on when the engine cuts out or is it blank? a possible cause of this could be the crank sensor. im also thinking maybe there is an ign switch issue here, does the car have an aftermarket alarm or immobiliser?
as the car cuts out there are no lights displayed but as soon as its cutout the battery and oil light come on.been told by mechanic that we have (its the mrs again k )a dry starter motor cos we get like a "shrieking "sound after car starts ( starter motor still turning ) as if your still turning the key, which he said wasnt connected to the car cutting out at temperature.There is a logic 800 alarm system, which was fitted by vw, which we presume was from new.
right ok, id be inclided to think its the crank sensor with those symptoms, coil is another possibility
thanks for replying, When it has cut out before, I have imediately checked for spark on the lead which runs from coil to distributor by placing it next to the engine block. there is a good spark. Looks like I need to check the crank sensor, but this was replaced about 3 months back, ( admittedly it was not a genuine vw part ). Do you know if it can be checked in situ with a multimeter or not ?. If so do you happen to know how.
where did you get it from? i bought mine from ebay and it did exactly this from new. if you got it from gsf it'll probably be ok. might be worth getting it scanned with vag-com see if any faults are coming up
bought it from a local parts dealer called e&m motors.im assuming you mean taking it to local vw garage to put on vag com to be honest dont think car would get there!i disconnected it at connection points and did an ohms reading and nothing did an ac reading by cranking the engine no reading.but when you start the engine still runs from cold until it gets hot.
id think about getting a new crank sensor from gsf then, your symptoms are the same as mine were even with a brand new one., it was cheapo one from ebay around 25 delivered. gsf one is around 50
just taken the crank shaft sensor off once again and found oil all round the sensor.im thinking there shouldnt be any oil there ?.any ideas?
oil shouldnt be getting past it no, it should have an oring to seal it. it is poking inside the block tho so the end of it might be a bit oily
