I've got a golf MK4 2.0 Gti, I've got a small problem with my ICE at the moment and i'm wondering if anyone can help. I've got a pioneer head unit, 2 1000watt 6x9's on the shelf, a 1200 watt sub and a 1000 watt amp powering it all. It has a very good wireing kit with a fuse on the red wire to the battery, but at the moment the power keeps cutting out and its now getting worse, also when i'm driving the front and back lights flicker. I'd appriciate all help
Whats the condition of the battery like, im not brillliant on ice setups but maybe its to much for the battery and you need a power cap. This is not 100% though so let someone who knows more about it confirm it for you
those are the two main problems with amps 1. the battery cant handle wht the amp is trying to pull, which would draw power from other circits, such as lighting, giving you the flicker, power cap fixes this. 2. your grounding point is crap, it will either not power on, or cut out, basicly be intermitant, if this is the case then just find anouther grounding point. 2 is easier to check, get a multi meter across the live and the ground, if you get a voltage then its fine, check 4 or 5 time in different places, just to be sure.
Thanks Guy's please excuse how primative i am but what is a power cap and what does it do, i'll look to get one asap, plus i'm going to look out for a heavy duty battery, any suggestions on what make or the amount of power it will need to have. Thanks again
i have a 007 battery in my mk2, and it works fine a power cap goes inline with the power cable and it stores up power and then give it to the amp when it requires it, so that it draws power from that rather than every where else, you can pick them up for as little as 39, depending on if your bothered by make ect
Amp I did'nt actually fit the system, due to the fact i'm not technial like that, my mate done it for me and he's normally good at what he does, hence the reason i'm uprised its even happening. Its earthed to the bodywork were the first aid box goes at the back of the car on the left hand side. As for this power cap you guy's have advised me to get, can you give me the full name of it so i can search for one, i'm not fussed about the cash because in the long run it will be worth it, plus if you can name some decent heavt dutie battery's i'd appriciate that too. i also intend to put a dvd player in and a playstation slimline in too, do i need to buy any extra's to make the playstation work at all.
Id get your installer to check earth connection, always best to run the earth cable to a seperate point on the bodywork (dont share it with lighting earth point etc), make sure the metal is clean where it makes contact (ie not painted) playstation will take care of your dvd playing duties, depending on what screen you go for depends on whether youll need extras to make it work, you'll certainly need an inverter to run it http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=48722&criteria=Power&doy=8m1 this gives you 230v (house supply) so you can just plug it in A power cap (capacitor) stores charge, cost dictates power they can store and how good they are at storing it, usual story of more expensive is better (normally) but you should be ok with a 1.0 Farad power cap as your system isnt too demanding (no offence) anyone who sells you a screen should be able to tell you whether a playstation will plug straight into is, as i say most screens will need no extras but always best to check. As for batteries i wouldnt waste your money on a really expensive battery unless you plan to uprate your system in the future, a power cap should sort your light dimming problem (if it still persists after checking earth), if you do need a battery (sometimes a new install can prompt them to die more quickly than usual) then any branded battery should be fine (not halfords own chav batteries - again no offence to anyone with 1, the last two ive dealt wouldnt work my tv remote nevermind a car) hope this helps, Bob
http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx...mMenu=y&criteria=CAPACITORS&doy=9m1&worldid=1 for power cap btw
Thanks Thanks for all your help guy's and the links provided, and no i did'nt take any offence to your comments, i'm definately gonna get the power cap mate, nice one by the when i actually finish sorting out my car i'll show you guy's some pics and stuff. Thanks again
just to put a spanner in the works, been going on the www.caraudiodirect.com website that has some attached forums, and alot of the people on there say power caps are pointless and its better get get a good battery. also you need a good 14v from your alt to keep you battery charged properly. the other day i tested mine it read 13.2 V, the altonator (fan) belt looked fine but i replaced it as per instructions by a guy who refirbs alonators. fitting a new belt and tighning up the belt i gave me 14v very simple but you definately need to check your getting enough charge to your battery, has sorted out a number of problems on my car just like that. also find out how the amps are wired in to the amp auto on switch, if you have more than one amp running, the amp remote wire will really require a relay, i know on my old headunit it caused on / off intermittent issues because there wasnt enough power to turn two amps on in series even tho the amps don really draw any voltage down this wire. just things for you to remeber for trouble shooting to go into the reason power caps are a bit usless is because the power cap still draws alot of current up until its full and there are rarely full when the stereo is on it will probably stop your lights dimming as visably on bass notes but its still going to draw alot from your battery and if you battery is a dud then it wont solve your problems for long take a look at their forums as they are more specialised to audio than probably most of us on here
have no doubt those guys on there know more than me and my personal experience, i just thought the cap would be a cheaper option to solve the problem as the system is not relatively stressful on the electrics? I agree cap will only work on a good battery, although i think power caps are very good as they tend to take the strain and not the alternator/battery (as i understand them)? please correct me if im wrong
Id say that your Amp is drawing to much current from your battery therefore dragging power from other circuits. Dont forget these amps run on high power MOSFET which are basically high powered switching transistors. Also there could be a short circuit from another appliance. This means that you have a voltage leak onto an earthing point near to the amp, this would not necessary blow the fuse as amps have a power safe signal....... A power safe signal just means that it cuts off before it gets reasonably close to blowing components inside the amp........but would require a restart to turn the amp back on. As you say your not technical, dont bother taking it to places like halfords. They will have you spending money left right and centre. If need be get some one with a bit of experience in fault finding, as it may just be down to faulty equipment???
Thanks Right i see, thanks alot for that mate, its getting really annoying now i'l be going down the road enjoying my music then the sound just cuts out. But thanks anyway
