From looking at the pics I've seen I don't think you can - seems to just be a way of checking the wiring/signals are correct. I'm just using the 428 (iirc) relay, got rid of the other SAI relay. Was getting 12v to the coils so presume this is all working as it should....think I need to make a list of everything I've checked so far otherwise I'm going to lose track! Had to read it a couple of times but I follow lol Thanks
This kind of sounds like my problem i had and i didnt really know how i fixed it. My 24V was turning over and i had fuel, spark etc but it was just not firing! Spoke to a mate who had me check the Blue/Yellow on the MAF plug and it was dead. Traced this back to the fusebox and swapped a few things around and it started on the first turn of the key. So check the MAF plug to see if you have anything.
Thought I'd put in a little update. It runs!!! Seems it was a combination of issues: I wasn't getting 12v to the injectors - noid lights confirmed this. I re-checked all my wiring (4th time?!) and took all the plugs out that I'd changed and pressed in the connections again before plugged them back in (Mat-mk3 inspired fix ). This seemed to sort the injection issue so must have been a dodgy connection?? Also the fuel pump relay seemed to only work intermittently, sometimes priming and running, other times not. So I changed this out for relay 18 and coupled with running a throttle body alignment - the engine came to life Thank you all for the help and suggestions! Appreciate it!
Yep. Run them inline between injector connection & wiring loom connection. They draw a tiny amount of power & are very quick to change state (light on/off) so easy as Gloves has done to identify if you have power there or ECU isn't switching, any other wiring problems. The High tension test lights are here if you are interested in a set for the future, like the noid lights a cheap easy diagnosis tool working on the same principle as the injector noid lights. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-56...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ac4c85e3c Great to hear you've got it all running now Gloves. One thing I would double check as I had a few initial problems on mine with the battery light coming on now & again I checked everything 50x & a wiggle of the plug would always sort it out. Turns out one of the female terminals was overly wide due to testing I had done before by probing the multimeter probe into them to much, the contact wasn't great within the plug when going over the male terminal ... sausage in an alleyway situation! Check all the injector terminals make sure they are not opened up to much & check the 14 pin plug for the same + connections to the fusebox. If you find any that are a little opened up, remove the pin from the plug & give it a slight squeeze with a some pliers to close the gap back down again. If you are still getting intermittent problems in the future, it maybe worth doing a voltage drop test across the wiring.
Immensely satisfying! Seemed to be running very nicely as well. Just need to get the brakes and clutch bled and it should be good for a quick spin Seems I've got different noid lights from you. One's I bought can't be used while the engine is on. Either way though, they did the job. Cheers for the link, for the price those HT test lights seem worth adding to the tool box. I've actually unplugged everything again from the fuse box to tidy up all the wiring It's easier to fault find if it's not all tucked away. So I'm using this as an opportunity to check all the connections again and re-do anything I'm not totally happy with. Hopefully will all fire up ok again when I plug it all back in!
