Has anyone applied any kind of absorbent solution that results in stiffening the tired compressed hard board? It’s the usual place of the bottom of the doors and the driver ‘arm rest’. I was thinking a weak watered down solution of wood glue? (PVA?) Or is there a magic potion to repair these panels?
I used fibreglass resin, and some glass mat to rebuild mine, which were shot from damp. Worked quite well.
We used to use ronseal wet rot repair if had to renovate wooden doors that had been dip stripped, definitely stiffened the fibres up, not used it on door cards, but may be worth a try, or a cellulose dope or shellac possibly? Spirit based, not water.
Mine have gone mouldy at bottoms and my heading is now a bedouin tent hanging down. Amazing how moisture can ruin a car. Even got a breathable car cover over it.
I have used wood varnish on mine in the past to try and give them a bit of water proofing and I have some which have been damaged by moisture in the past and now dry I was planning to use fiberglass repair on the inside of them to put some strength back in them.
Diluted PVA solution? I recently cleaned most but not all of the foam off the back portion of the headlining and stuck it back with high temp trim fix. A radiator roller was ideal for working the headlining from the centre outwards. Looks OK until I do a permanent repair
Ronseal Wet Rot applied throughout all 'soft' sections, worked in parts, not so well in others. Last light the panels received a very thick coating of yacht varnish too, this morning that seems to have done the trick. Just need some fresh visqueen for the doors and it'll go back on for a 'final' time. (After paintwork and manual regulators refitted)
You can use "clear" rubble bags for the door membrane. Cut one side and a bottom and unfold. A previous forum post recommended putting an additional membrane across the lower half of door. Make sure the wires to the speakers drop down into the door so that any water tracks down the cable back into the door. Not down the cable through the membrane and onto the door card. What are "manual regulators" ?
Eventually had to use some fibreglass resin to stiffen up the sections that the varnish and wet rot treatment didn’t fully succeed. Door cards are now solid and I’m looking forward to putting back together thanks again for the input guys. (As for manual regulators?, =reliable. The units I removed are ‘electric life’, ok on the way down, but sounds and looks like trouble ahead on the way back up. If it’s not oem (in this case) it’s going to fail. Just when I’m 200miles from home on a rainy day. )
I have Electriclife regulators in mine. I assume they are a dealer fit. I had the same problem as you. Firstly I reversed the "wire/spring" thingy since it wears out at the motor end. I found that the original Beetle regulator uses the same method so I swapped the "wire/spring" over. Works a treat and has been for years.
