yes coils are the same. however depending on the yera will determine whether it has a male/female ht lead end. So you may have to swap the king HT leads over aswell
just an update on the situation... changed coil and fault still persists disconnected the relay behind the dash and the car wouldnt run or sustain idle. it just spluttered and died so i assume this is working... next move, another metering unit
have you replaced the temp sencer next to the WUR (bottom left) i done this and start up and idle was instantly better but it still stalls every now and then
all the 3 temp senders are the same part number so i tested them with a multimeter. 2 are fine 1 is a lower resistance. this one has my temp gauge on it so that is reading slightly incorrect atm
right i have swapped the metering unit and had the CO setup so it is "perfect" according to the garage i took it too. still does it, feels jittery and jerky at 40mph and slightly over 2000rpm im going to get another ISV and see if i can score another ecu PAUL
as far as im aware the isv wont to jack when not idling i know weve mentioned it before...check the air hoses arent being pulled on while you drive and exposing a split is the timing spot on? plug leads good? u sure its not engne mounts letting the engine jerk around? what did the garage say?
My money is on the ECU or the vacuum hose to the ECU as this controls the timing advance/retard under load. I'd try swapping in a known good ECU if possible as you say
Mine had the same jittery feel at 1500-2000 rpm in 5th gear. Or any gear if held at those revs. Turned out to be the intercam timing out by one tooth.
pigbladder only reason why i was contemplating the isv is because when you change gear or rev the car, the revs come down, hang about 1300rpm then come down to nice idle at 1000rpm The garage check the timing the mixture the coil (although i changed it anyway) the injectors the fuel pressure. He said he didnt know what could be causing it and to try swapping spare parts. not the best advice i know but without them ripping the car apart for great cost not much they could advise i suppose ive swapped the metering unit and it still occurs. Could try the leads but why would it run fine on the motorway at (ahem) 100mph?? Hoses im sure are fine. Took the elbow off the metering unit and scrubed it in a bucket of warm soapy water to clean it up and it was in good condition. The elbow near the throttle body i have recently replaced because of a previous split. The plastic sectoion is good too. Ive checked the small vacuum hoses and the hoses to the Overrun cut off valve and jubilee clipped them but no change. stu Ive checked the hoses and wiring to the ecu but i'll look around at getting a replacement item and seeing how i go. Deako could you explain a bit more for me and how i would check? this is sounding likely as this is the symtom, although it seemed to be less noticable with a passenger in the car? dunno if it was under more load? but it occurs and is most noticable at 40mph at 2000rpm on or off the accelerator. PAUL
You had already had it setup at Stealth though, if the cam timing had been out then it would have shown there. Vince changed mine for me at the weekend as the guy that i bought my engine from set it up wrong. But as i ssaid, yours was already setup and ran well before, so there must be something else causing the problem. Edit: Did you try another WUR? I have a couple spare if you want me to send you one to try?
yeah i didnt get it rolling roaded but it was done on the 30th september 2005 when it recorded 161.3bhp at the fly and 129.7lb/ft torque the curve doesnt have any spikes so i reckon its started happening after that i unplugged the WUR and it made the car run at higher revs, as if the choke was out. does this suggest its working fine? also the WUR only runs for about a minute into startup and i can normally detect when it comes off "choke" as if i sight for a couple of minutes and watch it the revs seem to "relax" slightly after about a minute or so. would changing the WUR mean i have to adjust the fuel pressure as im not really keen on messing about with all that after the garage tested and said it was ok. I dont want to move the goal posts again and cant keep asking them to reset the cO for me!!! PAUL (if not ill give it a go yes please!!)
