Thanks Mrhillclimber, some usefull tips. A friend spoke to Stealth who seem to think they can get it running nicely, no problem?... I think its a 304 cam Mike. I definately have oil issues, which is of primary concern at the moment. Changed both low and high sensors to no avail. As suggested by Mike H I took the sump off and cleaned the pick up. I am changing the oil pump tomorrow as a precaution. Whilst bleeding the coolant system (changed a split hose), the head seemed to be starved of oil. The oil light/ buzzer comes on immediately now, which I assume means the oil pump is f**ked, or I have other issues? This was 'supposed' to be a budget/rapid daily whilst my Mk1 VR6 is stripped/sprayed!
Did you take the oil pump off for a look? Did you prime the pump when you put it back together? It could just be that it's too dry to self-prime properly. There's a test in the haynes for pump clearances, and a visual inspection of the impeller is good to do.
Happy days! Replaced the pump and all is well, in that department anyway. Now I 'just' need to get it set up properly.....
A thought: I could not it seems get hold of a new gti distributor as VW say it is no longer available, so I am using one from a 1991 1.8 driver. Could this be part of the problem or is it no different from the gti dizzy. Can anyone tell me where I can get a new vac advance gti dizzy?
GSF or ECP might do a reconditioned one. Otherwise, you're out of luck. You should be able to find a decent 2nd hand one on the scirocco register or Mk1 golf sites. Injection ones and carb ones are different part numbers. I don't know how different the advance curves are.
Right, I have borrowed a digital timing light to set things up as mrhillclimber suggests. The plugs are the cooler running type. Strange thing about the pinking; From cold it will rev right out, no pinking, but when its warm and the cam comes in about 4000 the pinking returns. This would suggest it is running out of fuel?? I have increased the fuel pressure via the WUR, but not set up with guages yet. I have been told there is another way to increase the pressure by shimming the bolt that looks like a 17mm plug on the injection manifold body. Anyone know if this works?
if you have increased the pressure at WUR all you have done if made the mixture more lean you need to set the presure with the guage and set it when it is up to temp and set it between 3.45 to 3.75 bar as a starting piont the lower the pressure the richer the mixture 3.4bar is probably as low as you will need to go System pressure shoud be about 5 bar and is best left at that and should only be alterd if it is low would be better getting this set up on a rolling road before you melt some thing
Good advice! I will quit stumbling around in the dark and put my hand in my pocket for a RR session. Stealth have said they can do it but they are quite a trek from suffolk. Any recomendations of an RR more local?
I have had a look on ebay for gauges and watched the handy tutorial on you tube, but can anyone tell me exactly what I need and ideally where to get them from!?
they had a group buy last year http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174726&page=4&highlight=gauges this is the ones Tomo IOW had and the one NigeP made and dose the job very will http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181947&highlight=wur
Where are you based? Maybe there's someone local who can lend you one? Kjet has odd fittings, which most of the modern kits don't contain.
I'm in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk if any of you kind folk can help! The tutorial on you tube appears to suggest one does shim the 'plug' on the injection manifold to increase pressure to the injectors. I was informed that this was definately done on the original k-jet when the engine was in the slick 50 mk1. Interestingly the original set up also used a Capri 2.8 WUR instead of the 16v unit. Anyone heard of this before? Not that this is my intention, just curious!
Interesting - hadn't heard of a capri WUR trick. I guess the engine might have pre-dated the 16v WUR. Did the capri one have a screw in the back, or the plunger type adjuster on the front like an 8v?
Pre-dating the 16V WUR was my guess also, as I am sure they would have used OEM if possible. I got the engine minus all ancillaries so never saw the capri unit.
http://www.ford-capri.ch/pictures/foto-galerie/technik/w-k-jetronic-stecker-warmlaufregler.JPG http://www.k300performance.co.uk/images/capri/engine/PICT0017-600.jpg Capri WUR. Looks very similar to me. Looks as though it may adjust like the 16v unit?
