1.8T Aftermarket Management

as said..
Emerald had problems with reliability..

 

Ah , I thought they only had problems with their early systems (DOS Based) , not the M3d.

 

Don't know m8... sorry.
Hopefully its old news and resolved.. for their sake.

Know of a 1.8T Mk2 on IHI which ran on it, mapped by the man himself, and it was'nt performing very well at all.

~250bhp.. ish

Owner was'nt too impressed

 

wonder who that was

 

Yeah I know what you are sayin .. but its a little harsh to blame the ECU (not you personally).. could be down to many other possible faults with the car???? who knows ... as other cars have produced the goods and proved otherwise.

Just my 2p

 

aye..

amplifier failures were the ECU problem..
Hopefully long since resolved.

OMEX are a serious contender these days for value vs spec..

 

considereing the DTA system is the same price pretty much as Emerald,
id rather have DTA

 

I think the car you were talking about was extremely nicely setup bill, just not making the peak figures, it's all about the power spread *untill the map seemed to change and it became lumpy after 5000rpm again*

The cars not around anymore, it's gone !

Omex serious contender ? My old boss used the ecu's for many many years in his race cars and never a single problem!
Edited by: madmk4

 

Alex, what power / lbft torque you running? what spec is the engine? k04, dta and what intercooler? any other mods? What box / diff you got?

And why set it up conservatively to start with or youll blow it, you mean just the getting used to the power?

 

Before the rebuild it was about 285bhp/290lb/ft, not had it remapped since the rebuild as I'm planning a few other tweeks for it!

Engine is a BAM from an Audi TT 225, run on DTA, with K04 and a Golf G60 intercooler (huge like the Rallye one), 2 stage boost switch, Racetech boost guage, g/box is a fully rebuilt G60 cable change, converted to hydraulic clutch operation, Quaife LSD, Helix Racing Clutch (the VR ones don't last long when you're running over 250bhp and torque to match).

That's basically it. The reason I said take it easy with boosting the turbo at first is because you have bought a 2nd hand engine, you don't know the history of it (despite what the seller told you). All it takes is a weak/poorly seated valve, or a partially blocked oil feed pipe, or a weak injector and it could f**k your engine.

 

Ok sweet, sounds pretty much the same spec as mine then apart from the fact that you have a g60 cooler and i have a forge lancer evo 6 item

Oh, and i couldnt afford the quaife right now, just having to control the throttle out of corners

I still dont get the taking it easy bit. Surely if there is a blocked oil feed pipe or something else, itll be just as bad at low boost as when its whacked up?

So what boost you running now? Im on 1.3 bar at the moment. What sort of power would that be?

 

How did you work that out?

Higher boost = higher temps, turbo rpm increases, more stress on the turbo & engine.

Just offering advice, at the end of the day it's upto you how you drive your car.

Each engine is different, an approx value for yours on 1.3 bar would probably be 270-280ish bhp and similar torque.

When are you booked in with Vince?

 

has anyone used this management on an out of the box 1.8T car like a cupra?

What sort of money are we talking?

 

Vince managed to get 297bhp and 300ftlb on my corrado with BAM engine conversion at 1.3 bar.

 

I can't believe you're having a chat about management and haven't mentioned megasquirt yet. If you are even vaguely capable of tuning an engine its the only way to go! And it has all the features of other ECU's and a fraction of the price - I did mine for under 200 quid.

 

You tell-em matey. Most of this thread was about DTA. I really dont know whats the deal.

 

mine's being runing haltech for the last 3 years or so everyday without any faults at all,mapped by jabba sport