Golf mk2 GTI 8v to 1.8t AGU, mk4 dash and wiring Updated 13/02/11

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Kav1187, Dec 19, 2007.

  1. BigBumper New Member

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    Seat belts

    Hi I do as it happens have some rear belts, if you're intested, if you're ever down in deepest darkest Dorset, I could post 'em though. Not sure what they're worth, make an offer.
     
  2. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Thanks matey...PM sent [:D]

    Quick update for tonight...got started on the rear ABS rings. I removed the wheel/caliper/carrier/bearing/disc....

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    back of disc...this is where I'll put the ABS ring on.

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    ABS ring fitted. I heated it first to expand then dropped it over the disc. When it cools it grips it tight.

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    Only little problem is that when I put it back on it scrapes the shield at the back of the stub axle. Anyone have any ideas? [:[]

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    I was considering getting a mk3 rear beam so that it has a hole for the ABS sensor, but I've heard that they come in different sizes and I don't want to mess about with the width of the track....want everything to be in line. Any suggestions?
     
  3. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Hi all...I had a reasonably productive weekend on the golf....

    The solution for my stub axle problem was easily resolved...
    The metal shield that the ABS rotor was rubbing on only comes on models with hubs on the back (according to ETKA) so I popped it off and noticed that the metal guard has a hole where the sensor should go through...but the stub axle doesn't.
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    So I went out and bought new stub axles..
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    The Mk4 ABS sensor fitted nicely through the hole and the bolt that tightened lined up also.
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    In the mean time I had to pop the ABS rotor onto the other disc so took a pic..
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    Once the rear axles were sorted, I thought I'd take the opportunity to get the fuel filter fitted as the car was jacked up already.

    I haven't got a huge amount of materials at the garage, nor can I weld so I just bent a strip of metal I had into a bracket...Not the prettiest work of art, but does the job!
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    Fitted it between two bolts that the original fuel pump hanged from...
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    I went to Toxic rides in Hertford (http://www.toxicrides.com) to get some hoses. They are the only shop in a 50 mile radius that had any in stock! Nice bunch there as well...they had everything I needed and also did a bit of welding for me:
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    They moved the dump valve outlet to the other side of the pipe for me...this will allow me to turn it around and use it to connect to the intercooler
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    Fits nicely [:D]
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    Next job is specific to the AGU engine. It has an ignition amplifier which sits on the side of the airbox and is cooled by the passing air...as I'm using a cone filter, this would not be possible so I raided my spare parts box and had this computer fan sitting around...Perfect, just needed a bracket.
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    I've provisionally piped up the intercooler and placed the radiator inside to see how they will fit (I've left the aircon rad out for now because I'll need to get the air con pipes shortened etc...will leave this for another time - wanna get the car started for now.

    There's a bit of a gap between the rad and the intercooler. What should I do with regard to cooling? Should I put a fan on the rad and one on the intercooler or will the intercooler only get hot when the turbo kicks in, in which case the car will be in motion anyway?
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    I've used a throttle cable from a 1.6 carburettor model golf...it fits nicely and reaches the pedal...
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    only one problem...
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    The wiring loom is in the way! DAMNIT!
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2008
  4. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Hi all....reasonably unsuccessful evening tonight. I went to bleed the brakes/clutch and one of the original pipes that runs to the rear brakes seems to have a hole in it and peed brake fluid everywhere :(

    I didn't have enough time to try and sort it so thought I'd try starting her up to see if it will work. After a bit of fiddling I got her to start up but the engine dies almost straight away...

    Here's a vid (file is HUGE so may take a while to download)...

    Start up

    Strangely the clocks didn't seem to come on. I don't know why :( Could that be why it's cutting out?
     
  5. prof Forum Addict

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    looking good, but it may be easier to use a longer radiator, Euro car parts sell great quality ones, the same height as the mk2 rad, but longer. I used a 1999 Polo caddy TDI rad, was 630 long IIRC
     
  6. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Thanks Prof...do you know if the hoses connect on the driver side or the passenger side? Ideally I'd like a rad with hoses that connect on the passenger side so that I don't have to modify the coolant hoses.
     
  7. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    IT LIVES IT LIVES [:D]


    Turns out there's some sort of reset button on the back of the clocks. I pressed this and they came to life! Quick turn of the key later and the engine started straight away [:D]

    I tested the rear lights, brake lights, indicators and reverse light and they all work as they should. I'm chuffed to bits! I can't wait to sort out the brakes and radiator so that I can get it moving [:D]
     
  8. prof Forum Addict

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    can't remember, but if you pop into ECP they have a book with drawings of all the rads in
     
  9. Classy6 Forum Member

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    Fantastic build mate.

    Just spent the last 30+ minutes reading it all. Very inspirational, keep it up dude :)
     
  10. funkbaron Forum Junkie

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    Great build thread, but I'm curious....why didn't you use the mk3 golf underbody filter/ bracket? It bolts directly to the old fuel pump studs in the mk2 and would look a tad neater.:)
     
  11. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys :)

    Funkbaron, The one I made was just so that I could get it mounted to get the car started and moving. I didn't realise the mk3 had a fuel filter bracket in that position...thanks for letting me know though, I'll get one ordered up. ;)
     
  12. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Got a heated windscreen on it's way....should be here next week so I'll have a few more updates by then. I'm almost finished with the wiring in the car, will take some pics tonight.
     
  13. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Hi All,

    I re-routed the wires slightly so now they clear the gas pedal and also welded the dash bar mounts to the bar...bit stronger than builders band.

    Here are some more progress pics...

    I've been busy sorting out the wiring loom etc. While I was doing all that, I thought it would be a good idea to run the wiring for the sound system...

    Fusion all the way :-)
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    4 channel amp for the component speakers
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    My best mate working on the cut-outs for the rear speakers...
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    They're 6x9s....as much as I like the look of them, I'll need to cover them up with acoustic carpet. (ignore the naff looking rear brakelight...I'll get a top mounted one later).
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    Front components with crossovers and tweeters
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    Another amp on the other side for the sub
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    Dash trial fitted again...with JVC AVX44 DVD head unit
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    As I've got a DVD head unit...it would be rude not to....

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    Few little problems with the dash...
    the HVAC controls don't quite reach the mounts...
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    The steering wheel is too close to the top of the dash for my liking
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    And finally...
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    Not good!

    Gonna look nice when finished though
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    Looks like I'll have to remove the window demister duct from under the dash...it's stopping it from tilting back enough to give me clearance from the steering wheel. As a result...I've bought myself a heated windscreen :-)

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    First...gotta take the old one out..

    The 'how to' said to apply pressure to the corner...
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    wasn't enough so thought I'd be smart...
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    Oops!
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    My bad...
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    Screen's out now lol
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    Got a friend of mine coming to fit the heated screen for me...he's been in the windscreen trade for a long time so I trust he won't snap it like I probably would.

    Another little job I did was to wrap the exhaust downpipe with heat wrap. I soaked it in water, wrapped it around a few times...let it dry, then sprayed it with high temperature paint. It should be good enough to stop the heat from affecting the steering rack (at least until I can get a custom one made).

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    More pics to come...
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2008
  14. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Hi Peeps,

    I've got a couple of quick questions....I've got a mk3 radiator for the conversion, but I didn't realise that it also has the little outlet port for the hose that connects to the coolant bottle. The 1.8t engine has its own feed to the coolant bottle

    SO

    Do I just block the outlet on the radiator OR do I use a T piece and connect it to the coolant bottle together with the engine feed?

    Hope that makes sense...


    Second question...
    Any idea where I can get new studs for the turbo/exhaust fitting? They're not listed separately on ETKA.

    Mine are bent
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    Thanks,
    Kav
     
  15. benthejettaman Forum Member

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    good work so far
    have u done any more to the dash yet to solve the issues u had with it
    regards to the manifold studs just nip down to your local motor factors as they should have something similar on the shelf
     
  16. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Thanks matey. I'm still working on the dash - gonna try and get it done over the weekend.

    I'll pop down to the local car shop and see if they have the studs...hope I can get them out [:s] Gonna be harder now the engine is in the car.

    Tonight I went to figure out the headlight wiring. Got most of the wires figured out except one...it's a brown/white wire. I can't find it on the wiring diagram.

    Here's a little diagram of what I have so far...might help someone else that fits mk4 loom to mk2...

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  17. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Hi guys,

    Quick update from me.

    I got a few new bits over the last few days to try and finish the front end of the car. I'm using a radiator from a golf mk2 1.3 because the rad hoses are on the same side as on the Mk4 rad. It's a really small radiator, but I'm told it will be ok for running the OEM setup.

    A 12" slimline sucker fan bolted directly to the rad, through the fins.

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    I used big ass washers to spread the load on the other side as modelled by the Fonz (eeeeyyy) lol

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    The problem with trying to fit air con is that there just isn't space enough for the intercooler, condenser and radiator, so a bit of trimming was required...
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    All 3 radiators fit now, however the coolant rad doesn't sit diagonally along the crossmember like it used to. The corner on the passenger side fits into the hole as normal and is supported by the top bracket, but the driver side will require a bracket underneath for extra support.
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    I gave up on the FMIC I was trying to fit between the crossmember and the bumper and went along with the usual Mercedes Sprinter one...much easier to fit! I've got a new front bumper to replace the one I butchered. This one will sit straight once I've made some brackets.

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  18. Switch7

    Switch7 Forum Member

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    thought I better have a look since you post in my build so much!

    Coming along nicely mate, you get a great sense of satisfaction from making tough stuff work and fit.
    Keep the updates coming!
     
  19. DOLLARS Forum Member

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    looking good, anymore updates?
     
  20. enc. Forum Member

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    great project kav, lets see some updates.
     

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