This is an awesome project Ian. It's going to be a fantastic MK2 with some very nice modern features, particularly those seats. What are your plans for the exhaust manifold? Is there an off-the-shelf solution, or will you need to fabricate one? Are there any engine bay modifications required to accommodate the R32 engine, particularly chassis arm clearance and engine mounts? It looks like the bay is pretty standard.
Jedi, I'll weigh it when I'm done Trev, there is an off the shelf manifold at 359. I'm hoping to get a downpipe made cheaper. My chassis leg was already altered for the VR engine and the same mounts bolted to the R32 engine. I had to do a cut and **** on the front engine mount bracket so I could keep the R32 oil cooler.
I thought you could get a down pipe off the shelf sure i'v see ones can't think where Shame your not up hear I just got a tig welder
About time you got cracking (says me!!). Have you had any joy with the wiring yet? I can ask David again to try and get some wiring diagrams. On the plus side I get the keys for my unit next week so I can get all my cars in one place and crack on with the Golf Pete
I went up for couple of hours this morning to refresh my memory lol The wiring looked all over so i decided to remove the inlet manifold and exhaust heatshield to make way for the downpipe, Matt from the garage will trailor the car down to a place called Greenwoods Silencers so a custom downpipe can be made. With the inlet manifold off the wiring looked a lot less scary, I'll leave that off till last now. Since getting back i've been reading through the VR6 & 24v section for more memory refreshing. My priority now is removing the SAI relay and wiring, can anyone offer some advice? There seem to be lots of wires for the relay and pump. Here are a few pics: Plenty of room now: Bits of the mk5 downpipes to be recycled: 2 temp sensors, I think the blue one is the VR one and is now just used a a blank?? R32 one is green. Finally I emptied the car (found some black Samco hoses i'd forgotten about) ready to be trailored. Also taped up the inlet ports.
I did a couple more hours on it yesterday. I started a thread in the VR6 & 24v section about removing the N112 Secondary Air Injection system, with the manifold off everything seemed easy. Here's the thread and a couple of pics: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?270005-R32-N112-SAI-removal-of-wiring-and-relay Unwanted plugs and 100 relay: And this is what was removed: My ECU has been in Scotland running G60DUB's R32 Bora for a few weeks, that's coming back to me via Toyotec who is going to code out the SAI and rear lambda probes, cheers Eddie Hopefully I'll have the downpipe made before the ECU gets back. Next job is removing the wiring for the rear lambdas and charcoal canister.
are you using mk2 or mk4 clocks? if mk2 you need a resistor on the dash temp wire or use a mk3 golf 4 pin ecu temp sensor from 1.8-2.0 8v mk3. also you'll need to chop the mk4 loom plug off and splice on the mk3 one, covered here: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196 good to see you're finally gonna finish this one
cool, still applies to mk3 clocks for mk2 clocks the latest info i have found is you can add a W terminal inside the mk4 alternator: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?294596-Adding-a-W-terminal-to-alternator then use a dakota digital W signal converter: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?265211 this guy had one maybe you could ask where he sourced it? http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?75521-Some-52mm-gauges-and-Dakota-Tac-rev-counter-interface other alternative is if you can find a late type self-tensioner mk3 Golf n/a or td diesel alternator with a W pin rather than DFM you can avoid the W terminal part, but it depends how important the ecu DFM signal is... edit: or a can-bus adaptor to pull the revo signal then use a mk3/4 -> mk2 converter such as: www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=440379
found another one from here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=303682&page=2 "I used the adjustable TSD (tachometer signal divider) on setting 100 which simply converts a 5v(signal from ecu) to 12v signal for existing tach" http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_tsd/ Edit: another option also on page 3: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=303682&page=3 "The mk3 signal from the ecu is too weak to get the mk2 rpm gauge working. A solution to this, is to remove the conductance inside the mk2 cluster that is responsible for the rpm signal. Just pass it with a wire. And you have a working rpm gauge!" but no further info is given... edit2: some kind of adjustment screw on some diesel clocks, not sure if there on petrol. may help with a 6 pot signal on 4 pot clocks: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=33204.0
link for the alternator converter: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....ategory_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd128.htm
also found this simple solution: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?191964-My-Mk2-Golf-20VT-Berg-Cup-Project/page2 still think this leaves you with the 6 pot signal to 4 pot problem, unless you can find the adjuster screw mentioned a few times...
Can you not rotate the '32 oil coolers? I rotated my PD150 oil cooler so that I could use an 02A front bracket with an 02M on my MK2, just used a different pipe.
Today it got its downpipe made at a place in Rochdale called T G Silencers. It has 2 flexi's and 2 boss's for the lambda probes, it cost 120.
