So, for now, a decent remap? Would still like a good parts list though, as its the direction im going to take. So may aswell start gathering everything together as I go along. Would the codes have alot to do with why power etc is down so much?
This is a more extreme case seen on a Club GTI Clinic and dyno day. Vehicle tested as received from somewhere else appeared to have had the load request turned to the max, boost to the max and spiked to 28psi of boost before choking the exhaust with energy and ramping down to just 12psi at the red line. Not recommended. This is just a WOT test though, so in reality the vehicle would spin up it's tyres at full load and loose acceleration in the top end. Regular driving off boost should still be fine though. All of the examples could be tailored to reduce the WOT torque to say 220lbft, which can be maintained over a wider range of rpm. For a track car that is the type of response that is desired.
Here was a dyno graph taken from my old Mk4 Golf 1.8T AUM with a stage 1 custom code map. The first run made 210, and this was the second run - The torque was very impressive on mine.
Is that the black ribbed hose at the front of the engine? Used for about 1min on start up? If so, its there but obviously have a problem with it.
When the SAI has a flow based error usually due to split pipes, or a cracked pump if the pump is noisy (sounds like a Hoover) Did I read back that the DV had a pipe refitted earlier? Could cause that n249 code. (N249 controls the DV) Or a DV split diagphragm, or again vac pipe issues.
Yes, thats right. A thin pipe had popped off. It caused the turbo to make a funny noise which the guy called turbo chatter. Put it back on and it was fine. All of the codes were wiped, so will get the guy to check again on monday when it goes in for cambelt etc. Not sure on the condition of the old dv but I did replace it with a forge 008 one. Im going to clean the maf with carb cleaner tomorrow and replace the airfilter with the original one. Im going to start buying a few bits and pieces and was wondering if it would be a good idea to buy a silicone TIP and s3 3inch MAF and fit it straight away?
Don't fit the MAF until you have it remapped, as the MAF 'scaling' needs to be modified in the software to allow the larger MAF to work properly. Although found post from Prawn elsewhere saying that unless you get a larger turbo the larger MAF isn't needed?
Bigger MAF housings need a different transfer function. Usually only required if the current will be pegged at 5v for larger flowing turbos.
Ok, I get that. Will stick with the current one until I get things together. Been having a look at the hybrid turbo's. I think I will just go for the bbt k300 plus all the hardware to run it correctly and reliably. I have a rough idea of what is need. I dont want crazy power, just enough to keep the grin on my face and keep me on my toes. 260/270 should be enough for me i think. Need to sort brakes, tyres and suspension too.