How do you know where to mark the holw for the oil feed without a drawing or an 02J casing for reference; or is it simple enough to work out? Mart; I have a Q for you. I'm after a new set of bolt in planetary gears for the diff (^^See post 14)- are the bolt-in 02A gears the same as the early 02J planetary gears? >> Wanted ad: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201903
I'm pretty sure they are, the only difference being thealteration on the housing to accept the different cups. As for the oil feed, it's a calculated guess at most. If you're out, you'll be drilling into the thicker material for the bearing support, and the oil feed won't stay in place. The other end isn't too bad, but of cutting, hacking, filing, just don't go too deep, or the locator will just move about. I may have a set of planetry gears in good nick if you can't find any or don't fancy being sha66ed over at the dealer
Finally got around to ordering a cheap DTI and stand off the 'bay... repeatability and accuracy don't seem too bad and a bonus to boot is the M8 thread on the main post means it can be fitted straight into any one of the casing bolt holes Set preload on DTI to 1mm and measured, reset and carried out another 20 times on each and used the mean reading from each to choose shims (ordered tomorrow hopefully) Diff was prety straighforward: Again so was the output shaft: The input shaft was a little more problematic; there was so much axial play there was a fair spread of values but again if I fit the shim I can remeasure and get closer: Ahhh the finishing line is almost in sight.
It turned out to be a ToolZone stand- The designs not the greatest and as such it's a bit of a footer to adjust. Think the 'bay username was something like 'hiznherz' If thats not it then let me know and I'll have a look and get back to you. Just nipping out now to pick up the shims.
Stag Wellseal or Blue Hylomar for sealing box? Got the box shimmed up and pretty straightforward with the correct tools thankfully. The output shaft was a bit of a pain in for some reason took 2 goes and had to go up a shim size to get the correct torque value. So now I'm basically moving onto final assembly and wonder what to use to seal the case together; Blue Hylomar or Stag Wellseal? I'm a little confused as to what to use to hold the case magnet with - Will silicone sealant be sufficient?
if its like the 020 one its held in place by the case, broke suggests a blob of random grease just to hold it in place while you're faffing about getting the 2 halves together
The VW sealer is very good, looks and smells like celly primer in tin form. 100g tube part # AMV 188 200 03 which is ample for 3/4 boxes using this paste does also glue magnet in. only i little bit is required and when casing is bolted together it doesn't knock your pre-loads out
Oh well... its finally bolted together.. Jus cant seem to get any time to work on it for now... Just needs painting (half etch primed at the moment) Angle tightening the last of the bolts:
Drive flanges etch primed and no reaction to enamel radiator paint either, bonus so onto the casing next. Ready to be properly masked up and painted as and when it stops giving off solvents: Not long now to some 3.94 fun... Just to prep the 'new' engine and it's all go for the swap.
Its as finished as it's going to get Well the box is 'done' at long last and had a couple of surprise headaches in the final furlong. Heating 5th to drop on: Ready to drop the synchro hub on: In my rush I nearly wrecked the syncro by attempting to put it on the wrong way: Thankfully I noticed before attempting to tap it home and one quick rewind later all was well. Adjusting 5th was suprisingly a total fiddle and took some time until I was happy I had it right so there's no pictures of this stage nor the fully assembled 5th and synchro hub. Some of the casing: ^^ Please ignore the poxy end casing - Budget constraints! And finally, replacing the starter bush was nearly the undiong of me but only due to the lack of proper tools and having to improvise which has been a constant theme from the beginning. Never again ... I'd recommend not rebuilding a box unless you have access to the proper tools or access to machine tools to knock up some appropriate gear otherwise it's a constant headache. Anyway I digress. 1st go resulted in me crumbling the bush and at 2am on a Saturday morning I was not hopefull of my local VW having one in stock but alas everybody gets some good luck now and again... They had two. So one plastic spacer (from a Dental floss spool) over a hex bit to provide a square pushing face and masking taped to take up the slack around the hex bit. Shove it in the freezer with bush for an hour and one gentle heating of the bore with a pencil torch resulted in an easy push-in by hand: So changes gear fine & no nasty noises so game on. Engine prep tomorrow and begin the engine box swap & hopefully finish tomorrow night or Monday afternoon.
Massive thread revival, but is the casing above an 02C 4WD Bell housing, without the angle drive? I've Got G60Dubs engine and box in my MK2, and was looking for details on the 02A Rebuild that was done, and notice the casing was different........
There are 2 types of casing. The std round 02a, or the 'unfinished' 02a which like you say is an un machined 02c. No difference inside though
Must be fantastically rapid in the MK2 Andy? The plan was always to reshell the MK3 into a MK2 but didn't have a garage in Buckie. Still regret punting it. Ps I still have all the pics if you need them?
Cool, was just curious about the casing. Its pretty good in the MK2 yeah, been going strong for 3 years now no issues, total flier with the 3.94 final drive! Picking up another lump though to do a full rebuild on and then swap in. Also looking to build an 02S/02A 6 speed box as the 3.94 is just a tad short in 5th, and qould be ideal with a taller 6th gear.
Yup the 5th with the 3.94 is a tad short - calculated it lost 3-4mpg over the stock CDA box but the mileage hit was worth it.