Hi all, My car is 1990 Jetta, cl 1.8 8v SPi and its leaking coolant from the join between the block and the gearbox at the back of teh engine. In-fact when the engine is running, the coolant sprays out of the join near the bolt with the ground wire and over the exhaust manifold, drive shaft etc. when the engine is not running the coolant drips out. Obviously I need to remove the gearbox to take a look but I was wondering if anyone has had this before or knows of why its happening? For a bit of background, I emptied and fushed ot the coolant system as I needed to replace the temp sensor for the dash gauge and the blue sendor for the ecu, plus the housing seal was leaking and the flange at the side of the head was also leaking, so I replaced those also. Then I put it all back together, filled it with evans prep fluid, no leaks anywhere. turned on the engine and no leaks apart from the one coming form the back of the engine at the join between gearbox and block. turn off engine and it just drains all the coolant out. Not good. Also, I removed the green end cap on the gearbox and found a lot of thick gunky oil here. I not sure if this is right? Has a seal gone here between the pushrod and thrust bearing? Should there be oil here or juts a coating in grease to make sure it all moves smoothly? Any help appreciated Simon
That endof the gearbox houses 5th gear, the release bearing and the pushrod finger( plus other it's and bobs) It is also the oil gallery for 5th and the release bearing so yes, there's supposed to be oil in there. If it's that thick and gloopy maybe an oil change on the box is in order .
Loss of coolant between engine and gearbox issue might be due to 1 of 2 core plugs having corroded through. They are both concealed by the bellhousing.
Thanks for the replies. I will indeed be replacing the oil Hotgolf as I am due to take the 'box to check and fix a serious coolant leak. In fact I planned to drive to my local garage to pick up the oil as part of the test drive after I replaced the coolant 1st and 2nd are really crunchy also so I think replacing the oil might help that also. Hey Marty's Dub, thanks man, I didn't realise core plugs were there but it makes sense. I was scratching my head as where this leak could be cooming from. Hopefully it isn't too coroded and a new core plug will fix it. Have to wait and see. Pics to follow!
The larger plug blanks the end of the auxillary shaft opening in the block. (Clutch end), however I will stress that before you go tearing your gearbox out, check and double check that coolant loss is not from a heater/coolant pipe or flange as most of the plumbing is pretty much in that area where engine and gearbox couple. Flanges warp and o'ring seals fail. The formed metal coolant pipe that all the smaller hoses plumb into is also prone to corrosion. Rubber hoses perish with age. All you need is a pin-prick of a hole and under a bit of heat & pressure will send a nice spray of coolant anywhere in the bay.
Thanks Mate I hear what your saying, pulling out the gearbox for a split pipe would be a nitemare. But I did check all the pipes, I have removed most of them and gone over them. I refilled the system and checked everything again, was definitely the engine join, I crawled under the car and wiped the spot where the join is behind the engine (by the ground bolt) and it sprayed out there and when the engine was off it leaked from that point. I have replaced the temp sensor housing at the front along with sensors and seals, as there was a small leak and slight damage to the seal. I replaced the flange at the side of the head as that was leaking. I have also replaced the metal tube for a brand new one and all has new jubilee clips. None of them leaked or dripped at all. I was hoping it was only a dodgy fitting or split tube but no luck
What's the best way of removing the clips from the clutch wire, last thing I need to do to remove my gearbox?
So I got the gearbox off on Saturday (P.I.T.A) and tonight got the flywheel and clutch off so i could look behind the plate and try to find this leak. Unfortunately nothing seems to spring out as a problem. Don't know if I'm missing something at all? [/IMG] Thing is looking at the back of the plate (sorry I'm not sure of the name) it is corroded and in a bad state so i want to replace it, but I'm thinking there was definitely leaking behind the plate due to the corrosion. Not sure how to solve this little mystery now apart from filling with fluid, and pressurising the system see if it leaks from the core plugs? Any other ideas? [/IMG] The bell housing had a layer of thick black oil all around it, then when I got the clutch off, there was oil inside the flywheel and the clutch looks pretty glazed. However I've never taken this apart before so I might be wrong but I'm thinking this is not a good thing? [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] I am planning on changing the clutch anyway and all the gearbox seals, oil and plate between the block and 'box but was wondering if it is as bad as I think? Jonsie
looks like one of the box seals has gone, dont forget to change the brass bush for the pushrod as if thats ovaled a bit the new pushrod seal wont last! http://www.brokevw.com look closely at the bolt holes where the gearbox bolts go, mate of mine got his back after some work and it turns out they had roard in a bolt that was too long into the front and cracked the block thru into a coolant chanel!
Thanks for the info Rubjonny, I have got a new pushrod as that was worn and seal so will be fitting those along with the new seals, thrust bearing and gaskets. I was wondering if there was anyway of flushing the gearbox other then putting fresh oil in and draining out to make sure there are no bits etc in the bottom. It looks ok but not sure what might be left in the bottom of the box hey. When change the oil in my car I usually do an engine flush every other time to really clean it out hey, was wondering if the same could be done for the 'box? I'm tempted by the magnetic plug from PSI tuning also, anyone have this on a 020? I have new cvs to put on (had them for my old car but never got round to fitting them). I plan to clean out the original grease, repack it and check the seals here also before fitting the new ones. How much play should the flanges have? Should there be noise when I spin these at all? I have checked out the link above and what resource, massive thanks to the bloke for doing that so thouroughly hey!! however didn't say anything about play or noise hey. Thanks Simon
i recon if you fill it up with some cheap GL4 and give it a run for a week then drain that should get the worst of the crud out of it for you, the ATF flush trick may also work but im not sure what it woudl do to the internals? I'd assume it would be ok as auto boxes run similar materials inside, but not sure about the syncromeshes... wait for someone to confirm anyway. for the flanges a bit of backlash is ok but you shouldn't be able to wiggle em about, any play like that suggests dead diff bearings. of course if oil comes out metallic that is also a bad sign got a 50 quid box off ebay that was supposedly perfect, fitted it and found it knocked horribly on over run and when taking up power, and clutch near enough inoperable. once checked it had crushed pushrod, with washers stuffed under the actuating lever to make up for this, wiggly flanges and box oil was metallic brown. on strip down I found the diff seals were very, very dead
Oh the old "ran perfectly when I took it off the car mate " routine. Sorry to hear that hey. I can't believe why people go to the trouble of packing washers in when a new pushrod is 5-10! I undertsnad taking the gearbox off is a pain but doing it once and a proper service is rewarding and something (if done right) needs only to be done once in 100,00 miles surely! I mean this is the first gearbox I've taken off and if I can do it, anyone can! I will recheck my flanges () tonight and see what the play is like. I didn't think there was a lot and thought that if there had been, I needed to service them. I will also re-check my oil (as have not yet managed to get rid being as the car is off the road). IIRC it was a grey colour with no bits in, but worth a second check. I'm happy to replace it none the less. I will try the oil trick and wait to see if anyone can confirm the engine flush or not. Thanks Simon
So I have a bit of an update. Anyway, I have removed the brass bush and seal for the pushrods and there is quite a difference between the new one. Worn much? [/IMG] I also removed the clutch lever and saw what I'm hoping is a machined step (as it would therefore be intended to be there) and not wear? Am or right or do I need to replace this? [/IMG] As I have got the gearbox off, I have been replacing the 20 year old bushes of the shift linkage etc and fitted the weighted rod from the mk3 golf. However I haven't done the big orange bush on the shift rod yet, is there a standard depth that the clamp should be from the end of the rod when I refit everything? I measured it as 5mm. Are there any other measurements or methods to making sure the cup that holds the reverse gear ball is in the right place? [/IMG] When I cleaned up the block above the flywheel, I noticed a leak coming from the flange at the side of the head. Not surprising considering the state of the flange and head. [/IMG] [/IMG] So I ordered a new flange, plus I cut a thick piece of rubber to fit and I intend on using high temp silicone a on the head and between the rubber seal I made and that of the flange. Could you guys recommend a good sealant to use here? [/IMG] So my new sach clutch has arrived, I have 4ltrs of 75w90 gearbox oil, new seals, bush (), cv joints and rebuild kit for the shift linkage. Should make a difference I'm hoping. I realise that the gearbox only needs 2 ltrs, but my intention is to fit the seals, pushrod etc and then fill the box with oil to see if there any leaks before I refit it, drain the oil as a bit of a wash and if all good, refit the box. Oh and I got a new backing plate from VW, surprisingly they had no record of anyone ever ordering one of these before haha. Simon
Ideally, something like Belzona 1111 Super metal however any good metal epoxy glue. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Glu...rg=20140107083358&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=230682167019 Degrease the flange face and pitmarks. When dry apply a small amount to the face and pitting. Then draw a straight edge across it so all you have left is epoxy in the pitmarks and allow to set. Wipe any epoxy from from opening and bolt holes before it goes hard. Then fit new flange as normal.
as above fill all the pitting and you should be good to go styep pretty sure is normal, looking at some pics on brokes site i think i can just about spot it: http://www.brokevw.com/TO.html but it looks to be only where the spring sits anyway the non-machined bit is where it fits into the bush so even with wear in that spot should be alright
Hi, just a quick question on refitting the cv joints to the flange. Should the be a gasket between the flange face and the cv joint? Thanks.
There should be yes! Like the one pictured here in the bottom left. http://api.vwheritage.com/_img/products/33979237/60951A8C-E443-4A0B-8E3D-9F06730773A5.jpg
no vw i have ever worked on has had these, i dont know if they have all been binned or if tits something that was only fitted to certain models
More than likely binned! Pfffft! If I had known that, I would have saved myself alot of time and energy cutting new ones. The rubber ones that came out of mine were tired looking! Such a faff!
Thanks for that Marty. They are a right faff to fit but i have them fitted now so I will keep an eye on them. My old cv joints didn't have them either but they came with the replacemet kit so I thought it best to fit them hey. that and plenty of new grease, lovely job! I have rebushed my shift linkage and fitted a weighted shaft and when the gear stick is in nuetral, it moves side to side and goes into gear fine, but when in the nuetral position there is no spring back to centre across the gate, is this right? I can't remember if it was like this before hey.
