Evening all. I'll be wanting to source a G60 gearbox at some point and convert my Golf 16V MK2 to use the cable change and hydraulic clutch setup. I've never done anything like this before but this weekend I messed around with a Passat GT to see how the cable change bits go together. It all looks a lot simpler than I expected, really. Just have a few questions: The cable-change gear stick mechanism itself: If I remove this from the Passat, is there any modification necessary in the Golf MK2 for it to fit? I didn't remove the mechanism from the Passat (it seems that you have to get underneath and remove the exhaust and heatshield to do it, and I couldn't be arsed today) but from what I remember, there seemed to be a couple of bolts holding it in place at the top, for which matching holes don't seem to exist on the Golf. So would I need to cut away the part of the tunnel from the Passat where the gearchange mechanism bolts to and have that chopped in? Or, would I find that a Golf or Corrado mech would bolt straight in? Or are they all they all the same and I'm talking out of my arse? Similarly, the pedal box from the Passat. Is there any chopping and welding necessary, and do I need to make an opening in the bulkhead for the clutch pedal cylinder? (Then again, I guess the shell already has a hole there with a plastic bung in it, or maybe the clutch cable - I haven't looked yet). The hydraulic cylinder that I took off the Passat gearbox has got a damaged seal around the plunger. I guess that this isn't something that can be replaced separately, no? Just wondering if there's anything else I should know? Many thanks, Trev
The ratios for the G60 box are very long, i take it you going to use the box with your 16v engine ??? I would try and find a 16v Corrado box to keep the ratios about the same as you have now. Not sure of the code for the Corrado box.
Thanks mate. Yep, I will be using it on a 16V supercharged engine. The gearbox that the Corrado 16V had - was that an 02A? I did kind of have my hands on an 02A 'box from a Passat GT, but I kind of effed it up I think trying to remove it. But I guess that, being an 8V engine, the ratios on that box are probably going to be similarly unsuitable for 16V? Any further discusson of what would be the most suitable 'box for my conversion would be most welcome. The other option that I haven't completely ruled out is to have my own 16V 020 gearbox overhauled by Hotgolf. I trust that the 020 box could be made strong enough this way?
Dont quote me on this but the 8v MkI 020 ratios are the same as the 020 16v (apart from 5th, but nothing much in it) and the ratios in the Corrado 02A is the same as the 16v 020 make sense Didnt know it was a supercharged 16v may be in a road car the G60 box would be best then. GVK'S list of boxes Last link on that page.
Hi IMO, I would not bother with the pedal box swap but use your existing pedalbox and the seat ibiza bits that enable you to operate an 02A clutch by cable - I have posted all the bits required for this recently on here (with part numbers). You dont need the hydraulic cylinder if you go this route. The shifter itself should bolt up into the tunnel with a couple of holes drilling - you are making too much work for yourself trying to graft the passat tunnel in (but this may be an easy thing if your a welder....) You are going to have plenty torque from a supercharged valver so a long legged box should be fine - get the code from the bottom of the bellhousing or at the side of where the hydraulic slave cylinder is and I will tell you what ratios are in it Forget the 020 with a supercharged valver, it wont last. For an 020 / 02A conversion you will also need front engine mount (steel bracket that bolts to engine), starter motor, flywheel, clutch Cheers Rob Edited by: RobT
Thanks again. I spent ages trying to find the damn code on that Passat 'box but I couldn't find it. According to ETKA, however, I think that the gearbox must be a code AMA or AFE (these are the only gearbox codes that were listed with a PB engine and the particular VIN from the Passat). These two are the same box I think because ETKA lists it/them as part number 02A 300 044 AX. I have looked at all the ratio tables I could find, including the one that I think GVK took that data from, and I could not find any reference to AMA / AFE. The 'box is kind of jammed in an awkward position in that Passat at the scrapyard now anyway. First time I ever tried to remove a gearbox while in situ from a car and I effed it up. So that 'box is toast now anyway. Still, it had about 190,000 miles on the car - so maybe I was better off leaving it. I saw the thread regarding using a clutch cable on the 02A when I did a search earlier. Interesting stuff. I suppose that eliminating a hydraulic system can't be a bad thing. I didn't realise that the starter motor would be different on the 02A box. I'll try and go and get the one from that Passat (like a fool, I left it nearby). I don't fully understand why I have to change the front engine mount (although as it happens I think that I will need a solit front mount due to how close the alternator is going to sit to the front crossmember). Did you mean the gearbox engine mount? If so, I brought all of those brackets home with me. Point taken about the 020. It's an extremely smooth gearbox (possibly a replacement one, in fact) as it has NEVER crunched, ever. So it would be a shame to break it! I know I'll sound like a total n00b here but I really haven't a bloody clue about selecting the most appropriate gear ratios. I just guess that I'll be needing something similar to the 020.
so you're doing this in preparation of a SC....was about say why would you bother, as the 02a is a nasty nasty box.
What is it that you do not like about the 02A? And is there anything else I should consider? I understand that 20VT conversions make use of the MK3 16V box quite often. Is that a better one to consider?
every single one i've used has been poor shifting...has a long throw, is quite mushy, and is very easy to beat the syncro's. i haven't driven a 16v but would presume its the same, as its only the ratios that are different AFAIK. also, they have a habit of the diffs going, mine started whining so had to get a repair done.
rev, you will find the ratios in etka, when you look at the exploded diagrams of the gear clusters - they are labelled 1.z 2.z, and the ratio is a is listed as a fraction. Its dead easy to fit it all in. Deako managed it.
It's not the front mount you need, its the bracket that connects the gearbox/engine to the front mount, its a different fitting than the 020 type. I fitted the hydraulic pedal box, it was a bit of a pain but i reckon it was worth it as the feel is much nicer than cable types, plus it will never snap You do need to flatten the bulkhead a little to fit the clutch master cylinder. I fitted the whole lot in a morning, i wouldn't advise trying to do it if the engine is still in place though!
Some 02a box ratios CODE 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th R&P Notes ATA,AGC 3.778 2.105 1.345 0.971 0.795 3.684 Corrado G60, Passat 16v AYL,AYK 3.778 2.118 1.429 1.029 0.837 3.684 Corrado G60, Passat 16v CDM 3.300 1.944 1.308 1.034 0.838 3.647 Corrado VR-6 2.8 CDA 3.300 1.945 1.308 1.029 0.837 3.68 Golf III 2.0 16V, Ibiza 2.0 16V CHA 3.778 2.118 1.360 0.917 0.717 3.944 VR6 Canada CNL 3.778 2.118 1.458 1.029 0.837 3.684 VR6 CCM 3.300 1.944 1.308 1.034 0.838 3.389 VR6 CES 3.778 2.118 1.429 1.029 0.837 3.684 Passat CGY 3.778 2.118 1.458 1.029 0.837 3.684 Passat CAW 3.778 2.118 1.458 1.034 0.838 3.647 Corrado
I`ll be leaving the rod change box in and fitting a Quaiffe diff when I can afford it, will just have to keep off the loud pedal Don`t think I`ve read of anyone who`s truely happy with shift on the cable change boxes?
Don't worry about welding in the Passat tunnel it isn't necessary. You'll need to drill one hole and make a simple bracket, but it's an easy job to install the cable selector. Here is the best photo I have of mine: 02A gear selector in Mk2 tunnel Personally I agree with slim. I would go hydraulic for the clutch opperation. The SEAT cable is an option, but it seems to me you're doing this conversion properly, so why cut corners here? The cable is a quicker way to do the swap but AFAIK the end result is not as smooth. You'll need to flatten a section of the bulkhead to mount the clutch master cylinder on, and cut a hole for it obviously, but other than that it's pretty simple. Easier to do it with the engine out than in tho. The G60 ratios are long yes, but coupled with the torque your engine will produce it think they will be well suited. You use a short ratio box on Valvers cos all the power and the torque is higher up the rev range. Personally I think a Valver box with FI is too short. I love the ratios in my G60 'box coupled with my 20vT. It goes through the gears quick enough as it is and it's only running 210 at the moment. Once the power goes it it'll be through the gears on my "long box" even quicker. You will need the 02A Front engine bracket and starter cos they are different to the 020 set-up. Here's a list of what you'll need:Click I agree with Rob, the 020 will be too weak for this application. Go 02A from the start - It'll save you the swap later on. Plus you get to use a bigger clutch. Depending on the BHP you are aiming for, a standard VR6 clutch should be OK for up to 250 BHP and is still relatively cheap. 100 or so. The 02A gear change is pants. They do feel sloppy and short of putting in a motorsport selector and cables it will always feel like that. But they are stronger than the old rod change 'boxes, so it's one of those things that you'll have to live with if you want reliability. It's a shame the 'box from my T26 Transporter doesn't fit. That thing feels ace - Just like a rod change except it uses cables. Still, never mind.
The posts above suggest the ibiza cable is some kind of bodge - this is a factory fitted setup and is absolutely fine - just done it myself and feels absolutely A1 - depends if you want to swap pedal boxes and whether the car is in a state to do this (i.e without dash / engine) - it will not be easy with engine and dash in situ. Your choice. Cheers Rob
Gents, many thanks again for taking the time to offer all of the advice above. The car is going to be stripped of just about everything and it will probably be sitting without an engine for a few months while I prepare it and save up for the paintwork, so modifying the bulkhead will be straightforward should I go for the hydraulic option. But I take note of the fact that the cable method can be a good solution too. I do now have an opportunity to buy a gearbox from a G60 Corrado for around 150 quid from a trustworthy chap on this forum. I'm quite tempted. So when you drive with an 02A, do gear changes feel anything like what they do in modern VWs with cable-change gearboxes, like the Golf MK4? I really don't think it'll bother me, to be honest
By the way, does anybody know what gearbox the Golf Limited used? I looked under the bonnet of G6LTD/G6DUB (can't remember which) at the BVF but I didn't take note of what 'box it had. I suppose it was probably an 02A with a non-standard set of ratios? I looked through all the old original parts lists for the Limited once and couldn't find any references to the 'box.
A few things I've learned about the 02A gearbox that I've been offered. It has done 140K miles and: - It apparently had a noisy clutch release bearing: Is this going to be a major problem? - It DID crunch, but the crunch seemed to be due to a worn / poorly aligned cable shifter, because the crunch was random in that it could crunch in any gear, and it didn't only do it when cold. And he reckons it didn't sound like a syncro crunch. Unlike the familiar 020 crunch which typically happens only in second and even more so when cold. So does that sound more like a worn clutch or cable problem? Trev
Hey, I'm not trying to out-do you with a "my set-up is better than yours" post. I was told by an experienced bloke off this forum that the cable option wasn't as good at the time I was looking into it as an option for my conversion. Having never used on myself perhaps I shouldn't go on hear-say. It is a cheaper method of doing the same job, no denying, but ask around here and the general consensus is that hydraulic is better. But each to their own and if your happy with yours Rob, then cool. We're both happy. No hard feelings. Yeah, they feel similar, but a little bit more squishier. Guessing due to worn components. The clutch release bearing isn't an issue, you can change that easily with the box off. The random crunching sounds more odd than anything. It might of been a mal-adjusted cable but I guess you're gonna just have to chance it.
