looks to be apssat aeb/anb/apu, and afiak basically same lump as agu so should be reet as you say. melty wires dont sound good though have you traced them all the way to ecu/coils to make sure not shorting? also the coilpack harnesses on the engien looms can split on later cars, not sure if agu suffer the same problems maybe take the injectors out and put into containers, unplug the amp (so no chance of spaerk) and crank it make sure all spraying nice
I checked injectors earlier and cylinder one was spraying but ill check again. the fact its cured one misfire suggests the amp seems to be ok, the wires that have melted slightly come from the ecu. There is 3 wires so surely the damage would cause issues to all the cylinders or is my logic incorrect? As you say, time to break out the multi meter and check for continuity etc
it depends on how bad the wires are, it may be cyl 2-4 wires arent tooo bad, but cyl 1 wire is melted thru to the copper somewhere and shorting. its something to check anyway if you have slight damage for sure as you can never know until you check it all end to end
so far I have continuity from each coil wire to its corresponding point on the 4 pin plug which goes into one side of the ignition amp. this is the side with the burns on it. I also have continuity from the purple/black switch live coil to T10a pin 8. I'm stumped with this now
best bet is unwrap it all end to end unfortunatly, there may be damage further into the loom you cant find. the trouble with continuity test is it only tells you that the wire is still connected either end, it wont tell you if the wire is also shorted to another one. unless you by chance manage to find the wire its shorted to and find that also has continuity to the wire you're checking, if that makes sense
yep that makes sense, I kinda thought there might be a chance a wire has attached itself to another but I chose not to believe it lol. I will take the engine part harness out and unravel it..a pig of a job
ok stripped the loom down no melts or crossing over, only damage is near the ignition amp plug...pics to follow Old ignition amp
apart from the above, there are no visual defects or breaks in wiring. An earth is exposed which I will tape up but I don't think this is the cause.
Tried a second working Ignition Amp and still has the same issue... Tried a second ECU, the car is suffocating but I think cylinder one is firing, I will have to plumb everything back up tomorrow to see how it runs.
running on all four again...looks like a bad ECU. sounded sooooo much better. Now can an ecu be repaired or is it not worth the time?
nice one! not sure on the ecu repair though hopefully someone can report. may be strip it and see if any obvious damage inside and piccy it up
Thanks for all your help mate, I will stick some photos up later today once I've finished putting the mk2 back together
Car back running now but jolts forward when accelerating...might be another boost leak When the car runs in limp mode, should I be able to hear to the waste gate opening and exhaust gasses bypassing the turbo? I can feel it coming off boost a lot sooner or does this sound like another leak somewhere?
None, i'll probably need to use measuring blocks now and compare to autodata.. I think its got two leaks at the moment, I know I forgot to tighten the outlet pipe. its strange, it jolts forward with and without the maf connected, so its not that. When the n75 valve is disconnected I can feel it come off boost a lot sooner but doesn't jolt then sounds like another airleak? Also the diverter valves, I think mine is plumbed incorrectly, I have the charge pipe connected to the bottom of the valve and the tip connected to the side of the D.V. My understanding is any excess boost causes the spring in the valve to compress thus pushing air back into the TIP, hence recirculating air back into the turbo. But when I look at oem pictures they are plumbed in the opposite way :S Will the fact I have my catch can vented to atmosphere cause this, as its essentially measured air that's leaving the engine?
No longer jolting forward, the throttle body was cleaned, this has sorted the nasty idle and I think its sorted the car jolting. I can still hear air escaping from somewhere :S, its an non silenced k03s so does anyone know if these things are loud units? I also have a foul smell inside the cabin when the cars running :S like an oily damp coolant smell :S
could the smell be gases from the catch can? may be worth trying to put it back to standard to see if the smell goes. my thoughts are that as long as the pipes it was connected to are all sealed it shouldnt be a problem to have it to a catch tank and vented? if I remember I'll try to get on elsawin later and print out a vaccum diagram so you can compare what you have. I recal on amy mates AGU there was a long metal vac pipe that went from the rear round to the front which he had plumbed in, and was part of some system he had deleted. as standard it should hvae had some non-return valves in which were removed meaning he had a boost leak as it went from turbo outlet side right back to the throttle body side so this may be worth a look. Also is the N75 plumbed in right? there are a few different ones out there and a I found fair bit of conflicting information when trying to get my mates car sorted
Yep think the n75 valve is fine, it boosts to about 10psi before I run out of space. The MAF is connected and the n75 from what I can see work fine, but I can still hear a massive air leak somewhere, its not as aggressive as it should be. If I go WOT it does spin but seems like there is more to come. Re PCV valve, I thought maybe because the measured air is vented out by the catch can it could cause issues but I know if I connected the PCV to the oil filter housing and Cam cover port in a closed circuit, it smokes a lot. The venting to atmosphere has stopped this. Now that you mention it, the smell might be from the PCV system. Ill open the windows, boot and doors tomorrow to air the car out first. Also I should really post this in the tyres/transmission thread but my tyres keep going flat quickly like overnight. I can hear air leaking from the tyre, I cant see any leaks but could a broken seal around the alloy/tyre edge cause this or is the alloy wheel knackered ie bent/buckled etc.
it may be the valves are loose inside, you can buy the special tool off the bay of e, tis worth a try. alloy wheels can go pourus also, powdercoating sorts it or i guess repainting would too heres the diagram, it was pipe 14 which was the problem as he had binned the carbon canister and somehow the valves went missing. I binned the whole pipe and capped the ends. Should help with checking your pipe routing anyway: