You're right, wouldn't want to knock people out of their sensibilities too much. God forbid people start looking past oak green and BBS, the world would surely end? Great info in this thread btw
Indeed to long a drive to the UK... Alsoboat fees...might as well buy abigger engine than drive to stealth and tune it... Anyway thanks for all the feedback, still i have one or two questions. I ,relatively speaking, (i'm no professional) know what i'm doing, I have already dissassembled the regulator once and put it back on. To be more specific, though: The 16vwarm up regulator has two distinct compartments, one that operates under atmospheric pressure (the "main"part), and one that is connected to engine vacuum (a smaller compartment, where the springs are seated). If the hole is to be drilled in the back of thesmaller (vacuum) compartment, wouldn't that cause a vacuum leak, and also cause that compartment to be unpressurised, or do I miss something here? Or do I plug the hole afterwards? Edited by: Quasar
Theres a brass globe on the back of the wur,you drill thro this and theres an allen key bolt behind it.Its this you adjust to lower control pressure,increasing mixture across entire rev range
is this all stealth do then?? so bascially instead of driving to oxford from cardiff and paying their fees I may aswell just buy my own fuel gauge, a few shims and do the mod myself. then make sure timing is set at 6 deg. CO at 2.0% and jobs a good one???
No, the reason people are so happy with the job Stealth do is because they use the RR to set up the car for best overall performance, something you can only guess at with a fuel gauge and a CO meter.
yeah but once stealth set it up, will you need to go back to tehm everytime you adjust something stupid?? like if you change your oil do you need to go back so they adjust your CO? if you get new leads, do you need ignition timing set up?? etc. surely there must be a standard they work to?? eg. 5 bar system pressure, 48psi wur, 6 deg timing 2.0% CO??
If you were to take a note of the settings after Stealth had done the initial set-up then if you do have to replace/change anything if you return it to the same settings then it should be pretty close. Something to bear in mind though is that what's best for an engine with 10k on it may not be the same as when it's done 50k or a series of hard track days.
take the WUR off the car, clamp in a vice and slowly drill into the brass dome on the back of it. Best to use a 6 or 7 mm bit and a variable speed drill or hand drill, the brass isn't very strong. David.
Quite easy to drill through the brass but take it steady 'cos once you go through you might turn the allen screw with the drill or mess up the head on the screw.
k that sounds easy enough!. just double checking system pressure must be 5 bar and control pressure when warm 48psi??? Will that hopefully improve my economy once I've had the CO set at 2.0% after??
so it should be receiving 12.5 volts??? what if it's not? can you just up the system pressure and forget about it or is it adamant you need the 12.5v??
