at a 2L then, bugger. Well could you make a 1.8 16V sound like that? And with some modifications how much in your opinion could you manage to up the BHP by? without spending to much....Like induction differnet cam etc
Yeap the VR6 found in the mk3 and corrado are 12v, whereas the newer V6 in the 4-motion etc is a 24v iirc
I've got an 8v and if i could do it again i would of still had an 8v as a daily driver, but if it was 2ltr 16v vs 20vt then i would say for cheapness go 16v because the amount my conversion is costing to get right!![:^(] i could of stuck in a sorted abf for less then half When its on the road it will be a lot of fun though Pay your money and take ur choice really
8v's are great for around town, i much prefer my 2.0 8v in London, however motorway and long A road driving is boring as hell as there just aint much power when you into the 70+'s...i would personally now go with a 16v after tuning hell out of an 8v and only making it as quick as a well standard tuned 16v...
Small Bumper 3 door cars aren't as hard to find as you may think - fortunately there are enough people willing to pay a fortune for fat big bumper cars that they overlook the proper shape mk2. Get yourself an F reg one and you'll have the later spec big windows and big brakes, small bumpers, decent interior and electrics spec. Personally I find mk2 16v cars are fine without PAS - it's just more to go wrong.
8 v 16 v/v I currently own an 8v gti and a vr6, my personal opinion is to stuff both of them and get a g60.
The old threads are the best.... 8v will always get beaten by a decent standard 16v of the same capacity... A decent 2L 8v in a mk2 (BVH, Hot Cam etc etc) will out-do a 1800 KR 16v 0-60 & be very similar on track etc etc... The big advantage with the Valver is its so much more tuneable..... A decent spec Road going 2L 8v may make 150-160BHP & 145lbs/ft, but an 1800 KR 16v can do likewise, even if it lacks torque in comparison (stealths rollers as an example) Add a 2L conversion, flowed head, cams etc etc to the 16v & the 8v motors become so much less an attractive proposition... & thats from an 8v convert
Yeah would agree there ([:^(] at the thought off my sold Corrado G60) Then again, I currently have 2 8v Mk2's that have cracking engines. My 1.9 8v - C&R Enterprises engine - 15.7 at the pod in a Mk2. Pretty quick and revs to 7k easily. Upset a few 16v owners in that (and a few BMW 325 owners at Combe) 2.0l 8v (bored out PB), again a Mk2, when my brother drove it i raced him in the Corrado. Upto 70 it was neck and neck and only after that did the rado start pulling away. This engine is superb and would choose this over a 1.8 16v all day long for its torque. Standard 8v's would bore me now. Having said all that I am building a 9a based 2l 16v at the moment, no doubt this will change my mind on the above 8v engines.
Wow & old thread reborn but without altern8 or Gary edit: don't listen to me or chris as we have spent silly money .
Why would anyone want an 8V? Have to say I have one though as it was (and still is) just such a fabulous car for only 350 but if you are prepared to spend a little more (!) then buy hte nicest valver you can with all the best extras and when you want more go add a 2 litre bottom end
8 valve 2 lt ady with some work 152 bhp and 158 ft lb , 0-60 in 6.60 and 1/4 at the pod in 14.82 , not bad for an engine ive been thrashing for 10 years now !!! and thats still on std k - jet .
Yeah bottom end and dizzy on the 8v. A 2e will set you back peanuts, but you will have to space the downpipe as its taller
Pretty easy on a digifant mk2 GTi for example.... Just swap the bottom end for a mk3 2L version (using a 2E distributor). Think you need the original oil filter housing too... The biggest problem is the 8v head doesnt flow particularly well as standard, so increasing the capacity of the engine just exaggerates the problem. A big valve head, lightened flywheel & bottom end with a big cam are really required to make it a worthwhile conversion.....Sadly these all cost 's The 16v equivalent is a fit & forget kind of effort & works well even with a standard head & cams. Go for a flowed head, 4 branch & hotter cams etc etc & then the 8v just cannot match it due to a lack of valve area!
will look into it...I thought it was the thing you had to change! Thanks guys. Its just all about the insurance cost. Argh. It can suck being 18! (nearly 19) Oh and the practical space and time (and skill)
Ref Noise- this is a modded 1.8 16v with a full stainless system + 4-2-1 manifold http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1104245074992571959&q=tonk This mk2 was LOUD, on the way back from the ring a few years ago in the early hours we got back to my brothers house to find his miss sat outside with a cup of tea waiting for us we ask how she knew we were coming and she said i could hear you comming for the last ten minutes.....she was in bed at the time!
