Ouch! I use a big piece of glass and some grinding paste to check the heads flat, if it`s only very slightly warped it`ll bing it back after 10mins of rubbing. A skim will knock the timing out slightly and to be honest I`ve never come across a warped ally head on a motorcycle even after a h/gasket failure. I think there`s quite a feew head`s skiimed that don`t need doing but I suppose it`s insurance against having to tak it all out again!
i think its possible to fill the worn guide and re-cut it instead of pressing it out? might wanna check tho.
The guides you buy now from G+S are already the right size for the valves. So when you put them in there is usually no need for reaming.I usually have found from changing these that there is usually no need to have the seats re-cut, only lap them in as usual As for pressing them out. It's a 10 min job both ways. I use a hand brocher in work to do this, similar to a fly press exept you pull straight down rather than swinging a weight. All you'll need is a dolly that has a nice fit inside the guides and clearence on it's o/d to prevent it from catching the head on the way through. HAve done this in the past with the head hot and cold. To heat the head we place them in a welding rod oven for 1/2 an hour. This does the job nicely. If by any chance the guides are out, have the seats re-cut with a third angle while your there. My local machine shop charged about 110 to recut a whole G60 head with 3 angle seats. As for skimming. Get it done as a matter of course. You can safely remove 20 thou before you need to worry about bringing the C/R back down to prevent detonation. Edited by: Fozzie_Bear
Sorry to put a boot in all this. But, the guides you buy now from G+S are already the right size for the valves. So when you put them in there is usually no need for reaming. A. Yes the guides from G&S are a finished guide but they will only close up on an 8 valve if your rough fitting them and they close up on the 16vs because they are a tighter fit. And I have found from changing too many of these that there is usually no need to have the seats re-cut, only lap them in as usual. A. Not a chance, it will look like they have lapped in depending on the type and amount of grinding paste you use. Grinding paste is used to grind the valves in and not to prove the valve is a good seal on the seat. The only way to correctly tell is a valve is seating correctly on its seats is to perform a vacuum/fluid test or to use engineers blue. If by any chance the guides are out, have the seats re-cut with a third angle while your there. My local machine shop charged about 110 to recut a whole G60 head with 3 angle seats. A. 110.00 is way too much for 3 angle seats, should cost about 4 per seat unless they have an old Kwick-Way and they will have to set it up for each angle. Serdi cuts all three angles in one go.
my local machine shop charged 7 quid per guide. that covered machining down the bronze guides to stock spec, pressing the guides in, recutting the valve seats.
The most common name for it is K-Line after the supplier of the sleeves. The old guide is reamed or cut to a pre determined size and a thin sleeve is forced down the inside of the guide via an applicator. The sleeve is then trimmed to the correct length and a broach used to make sure the internal size is correct. I have seen these slide up and down with the valve and I think they work best in the old cast guides. The guides can also be knurled, this is done by forcing a tiny wheel which sits in a shaft down the guide by turning the shaft. Its almost like cutting a thread apart from it doesnt remove any material it just pushes the material to the side making ridges, a broach is then used to take the guide to the correct size. Both of these are quick fixes and although Ive done both I would always fit new guides on my own car.
Sorry got my wires crossed. Not reading the message fully. 110 was for replaceing the guides, having them machined to suit, re-cuting the seats and for replcing 3 bent valves. Edited by: Fozzie_Bear
Stripped the spare 027 KR head I have, worse thing was double nutting all the f'kin cam bearing cap studs out, all 24 of them [:^(] Anyone know how much KR exhaust valves are? I had an accident with one in the valve refacing tool, I was spinning them in the machine and decarbonising .. took a chunk out of one, clumsy tw*t What's the best way to get the valve seals out? I've got 8 of them out by whacking a 12mm deep socket over 'em and giving them a yank. Zetec ones come out a lot easier Edited by: G_V_K
I took the oil seals out just with a pair of pliers just grabbed the metal casing and twisted no problems. Exhaust valves are expensive from VW and I believe GSF or ECP sell them for about 8.
Why were you taking the cam bearing studs out? You think the machinists will need them out of the way? I just used long pliers for the stem seals on my 8v but I don't know about the 16v. I'm sure there'll be someone out there who can spare an exhuast valve ... Joe
I found that the cam bearing studs were of sh1t quality on my 16v and replaced them all as when I tried to torque them up something didn`t feel right and on inspection it had slightly stretched one of them so to be on safe side I replaced them all. I machined one of the old ones at work and found the material to be very soft which isn`t a good thing IMO.
have you not got a set of valve stem seal pliers?if your stuck for a exh valve pm me and ile pop one in the post
Yeah, one of mine didn't feel right, where did you get the replacements or are they a standard size? Joe
