1991 Pearl Grey Golf MK2 GTi Project

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by NateS2, Oct 6, 2019.

  1. Finite

    Finite Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi Nathan, in answer to your message I didn't find a solution to use my de Carbon struts. I switched to B4s. It seems later B8 fronts (from the B12 Pro kit) can accommodate the Mk3 bearing at the top with a necked area, but I would suggest trial fitting first without the spring & spring plate. If it stops spinning freely before the nut is clamping the bearing down on piston rod don't go any further.
     
  2. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    @rubjonny that was how i thought it worked. I've used Febi for a bits in the past mainly Bolts and sundry items such as bump stops and dust covers and for this they've been perfect. Same goes for SWAG which I understand are the same group.

    @Toyotec thanks for the informative post as always! I decided to use Lemforder where I could on most of the "heavy" stuff, wishbones (which are the new design anyway so I feel these would be the same from most manufactures. @Dave did a thread about this), wishbone bushes, ball joints etc. And then I've used Meyle for the items that Lemforder don't make and as mentioned the Febi group for sundry items.
    I've also used Vaico for a couple bits like brake shields, and the Gearbox mount, just out of curiosity. I assume these will be much the same as Febi.

    @Finite thanks for that! I'm going with the B12 kit and I've decided to put the G60 mounts on my order just in case. I'll report back on any issues I have and I'll return the set I don't use. If anyone is interested I would also be happy to sell them.
     
  3. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    While waiting for the parts to be shipped I managed to get quite a lot more work done on the car this weekend. I'm going to split this into two posts, the first covering the rear of the car and the second covering the front.
    Rear
    I started by removing the fuel tank which revealed two issues. Firstly, the dreaded fuel filler rot...[​IMG]
    I will purchase a SSP repair panel for the neck mount however, I will have to fabricate a custom piece to repair the inner arch. The second issue is corrosion of the fuel lines:
    [​IMG]
    As you can the swaged section is severely corroded, all of the hoses are like this. The ETKA drawing seems to imply that you can replace these swages with hose clamps and new hose. Does anyone have any experience with this or know of an alternative?
    I also removed the fuel pump housing but will need to source new mounting rubbers and clips as mine are heavily damaged. Again, if anyone has any of these or knows a source please let me know.

    The beam mount brackets and brake proportioning valve were next to come off. The valve itself was totally seized and took some heat and persuasion to get it moving again. I think I will be replacing this with a new part as they are still available.
    [​IMG]
    Finally for the rear of the car, the exhaust was removed. I had to use a reciprocating saw to cut just behind the centre box as there was no way the slip joints were going to release.
    [​IMG]
    As you can see this exhaust has been replaced at some point the past.

    Now the rear of the car is totally bare it will be wire wheeled to remove any loose under body coating. Any repairs that are needed will be made and any bare metal will be coated with Bilt Hamber Electrox Zinc primer. Any areas of missing underseal will be repaired using TEROSON RB R2000 HS and a final coat of Bilt Hamber Dynax UB wax will be applied to the whole underside of the vehicle.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2020
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  4. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Front

    For the front of the car I started by removing the driveshafts. The short solid one turned out to be a Shaftec aftermarket part and the long hollow one is original VW:
    [​IMG]
    The end of the CV where the bearings sit actually separated from the longer shaft as can be seen in the picture above. The bearing also seem slightly loose in the race. Is there anyway I can tell if the CV's need replacing?

    All of the pulley were removed next. I had to cut the power steering belt off as the adjuster had totally seized. All 4 crank pulley bolts and 2 of the PAS pulley bolts had had torx bits hammered into them in the past, so I had to do this again to remove them. A screw extractor also had to be employed on one of the crank bolts as it was totally rounded :/
    Now to remove the PAS pump and bracket. The long bolt that forms part of the pivot had seized solid into the Aluminium. However, after the liberal application of heat and large breaker bar the bolt was freed:
    [​IMG]
    As for the pump itself, it seems to be in good condition with no play in the shaft in any direction, I will however be removed it to clean up and paint. The high pressure hose also looks as if it is seeping so I will be getting a quote from a local Hydraulics firm to produce a new hose:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2020
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  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep just carefully chop the metal crimps till you can split them, then you can renew the rubber sections. most of it is standard 7mm fuel injection hose, only special one is the connection from lifter pump outlet to the swirl pot which is a 7-11mm reducer hose part number 171201543B

    fuel housing rubber dampers 191201256 are still available from VW, as are all the various nuts and washers but they can also all be sourced off ebay or wherever for a bit less. the fat rubber mounts 191201274 that slip into the metal brackets are NLA but some on ebay if you need them. the big C shaped clips which go over them WHT002257 are available from VW still
     
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  6. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thank you! Saved me a lot of faff looking for those. So helpful as always! Just to clarify, 171201543B goes from the lift pump to the plastic pipe which goes down into the swirl pot? Is it the feed or return?

    One more thing, the 3 bolts which hold each beam hanger to the car are NLA. Have you got a source for these or would I be best just getting some generic Grade 10.9 bolts?
    Cheers
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    The 7-11mm pipe goes on the black plastic hose from the lift pump on the end which connects to the main pump housing. All the rest of the pipes are standard 7mm injection hoses. The 2 lines on the fuel rail are specially shaped obviously, but with a bit of effort and some strategic clips you can manage with normal hose

    When I get back to my PC I'll have a look for those bolts, but generic 10.9 will be fine
     
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  8. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ahh okay thanks for clearing that up. I'm thinking I will replace all the hose because I have a slight fuel smell that I can't get rid of. I'm going to do the injector seals too to ensure its not that.

    Thank you!
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    had a quick look the bolts are N 10141701 but seem to be NLA everywhere. M10x25 flanged head, or normal bolts with washers :)
     
  10. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers. I'll get some of those on order. Think I'm going to have a go at plating all the bolts so I'll feedback on here how that goes.

    I know there's been a couple of threads on here about endplay on the intermediate shaft. I've not checked mine properly but I remember when I got the car I had to set the timing and I had a lot more than 0.25mm. Is there anything that can be done about? Or should I just leave it as is?
     
  11. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    So time for another update. Life has been very hectic as you can imagine, but I have found a lot of time to work on the car. However, as is always the case with a project car, all the work I've done is things that I didn't expect. After poking around on the floor some more I found that every drain hole bar two had rusted through totally, some in quite spectacular fashion [:s]
    [​IMG]

    So, these have all been cut out, and had new plate welded in. I've also had to repair the frame rail on both sides with 1.6mm Galv sheet as the rot had started to eat into those too.[​IMG]

    I also finally got round to fitting the Klokkerholm inner arch repair panel to the rear. This was more challenging that it could have been as there was very little arch left to work with.
    [​IMG]

    The battery tray has also been tided up and given a coat of primer, ready for the repair panel to be plug welded in.
    [​IMG]

    What I have to do on the body:
    • Rear outer arch
    • A new front wing
    • Drivers side sill
    • Under-coat and paint
    For anyone wondering, the grey primer I am using is Bilt-Hamber Electrox Zinc Rich primer.

    Before the front of the car goes back together, I'm going to replace all the brake pipes. I was going to use a pre-made set from Heritage, however, I intended to swap to a 4 port master cylinder and run individual pipes to each wheel. I also spoke with Automec and it appears that my car is slightly different to the one that they make kits for as it uses short unions. To this end, I've ordered 50 feet of cupro-nickel brake hose and 20 brass unions.
     
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  12. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Does anyone have a picture of the brake line routing on a G60 or 16V with 4 port master cylinder. I can roughly guess how it goes using ETKA drawings but an actual picture would be nice!
     
  13. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    when do you want it? I can take one in the morning. I can’t be bothered to get up at the moment [:D]
     
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  14. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yeah some today would be fine cheers!! [:D] Ideally if you can one of the master cylinder section, one of how they route down the back of the engine and one to the right hand side where it goes to the passenger wheel and drops down under the car that would be great!
     
  15. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Another quick update! In preparation for fitting the new brake pipes I had to remove the old 2 hose setup. Every fitting was really heavily corroded so some plumper soldering insulation and the blowtorch were employed
    [​IMG]
    The car is now totally devoid of brake hoses so I'm ready to start making up the hardlines once I find a picture!

    In the meantime, I also did some more work welding up the drain holes in the floor.
    [​IMG]
    I've still got one more hole left in the passenger side but the floor is totally done! I'm going to put waterbased underseal on the inside to replace the sound proofing I removed, paint, and re-fit the interior.
     
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  16. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Good progress and thanks for sharing the products you are using on the underside. I think i'll find similar suprises when i begin my journey.

    I've been interested in learning the art of welding for some time and having your thread and Cope's I'm swinging to giving it a go after practicing elsewhere first! The only part I am not confident to do is the jacking points but perhaps that will change with practice.
     
  17. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    The underseal is very good, if I was doing the whole car I would probably use something like Raptor, but the Henkel stuff sticks incredibly well and sets fairly hard which is ideal. If you get a cheap Waxoyl sprayer from eBay you can get the same pattern as the factory and even over spray it in the factory paint. Modified Silane seam sealer is also really good if you want to speed the process up as you can paint over it immediately which feels very weird but works. The Electrox is good too, the stuff in a tin is ideal so you can get a nice thick coat, although its incredibly strong smelling.

    I learnt to weld with TIG and moved over to MIG when doing this which was still quite a learning curve because you're going from welding clean metal on a flat surface to old rusty stuff while laid on your back [:|] Best tip I can give is make you get all the rot cut out even if it means taking more metal, makes it far easier!
     
  18. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers Nate, I'll grab some bits from a scrappy and get practicing before I let myself loose on the car! I need to buy the gear first though - I've joined the Mig Welding forum for some ideas and watched loads of youtube.

    Well i've added the products you mentioned to my shopping list so there's a start anyway.
     
  19. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Finally another update with lots of pictures! Managed to get some work done on the car in the good weather we've had, struggling to find the time especially with repairing other peoples instruments at the same time [:-B] But anyway!

    Big Brakes - The car is getting rear brakes from a Ferrari 348, hugely overkill but the price was right and they're an interesting change from G60's. They bolt straight to 16V hubs but the disc choice is slightly limited so I will be getting Epytec to make some custom adaptors to push the calipers out and back. This will allow a larger disc and mean you actually see them under the Ronal's! They are also around 50% lighter than a G60 caliper with a comparable disc weight.
    [​IMG]

    Moreee rust

    The more I work on the car the more rust I find, this is one of the main reasons its taking so long is because its so demotivating [:s]
    [​IMG]

    Fuel filler area has all been repaired, not happy with the welds but fitting your head and the torch in the arch isn't fun nor easy.
    [​IMG].
    Battery tray has gone in, really happy with this!
    [​IMG]
    2 coats of Electrox primer
    [​IMG]
    3M MS seam sealer applied to all the joints and blown with an air compressor to get a factory look
    [​IMG]
    Sprayed with 2 coats of Henkel Underbody protection, and then overcoated in body colour, clear coat, and Dynax UB undereath and UC on top. The chassis leg has also been filled with Dynax S-50. I'm hoping this will remain when the rest of the car has rusted away:lol:
    [​IMG]
    My jacking points...
    [​IMG]
    This is what I had to cut out. It has been repaired before by stick welding a plate over all of the rot.
    [​IMG]
    Klokkerholm repair panel and the extent to which I had to cut the old material out. Luckily its only the outer skin and the large structural piece that swings down from the back of the car is totally untouched.
    [​IMG]
    Destroyed front sill too
    [​IMG]

    Smaller things
    [​IMG]

    Fitting new rear beam bushes
    [​IMG]
    New pulls for the rear bench, out a MK3 so they're slightly too long but do the job
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Selection of parts to be powerdercoated
    [​IMG]
    Powercoated slam panel in Zinc and then satin black. New bonnet catch fitted, all coated in Dynax UC
    [​IMG]
    Engine is now supporting itselg again! New to me Hella Radiator also fitted.
    [​IMG]
    I'm beginning to doubt the validity of the "MOT" I got with this car
    [​IMG]
    New A2 Stainless fasteners from Accu, who I cannot recommend highly enough. Huge amount of stock and have been really great with sorting out a postage issue I had.
    [​IMG]
    New 22mm master cylinder and the start of the brake lines. Cupro Nickel with Brass fittings. I was advised by the company that makes the fittings that "very few cars use DIN fittings" so I was provided with the standard "bubble flare" type. These obviously work fine but the Golf should have DIN fittings and metric hose being as its German not american, so I will be swapping the hoses out later this year when I do some work on the engine.

    Hoping to get the MOT done by the middle of So I'll see how that one goes!
     
  20. GG.

    GG. Forum Member

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    Love this. Pearl gray is a fantastic looking color. [l]
     
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