Innotec Turbo Cleaner comes highly recommended for vehicles with VNT. Check your engine code as previous posts suggest. A WG turbo only requires the Italian tune up. A VNT would benefit from an innotec clean. An EGR delete, intake clean and CCV delete are great mods.
You would think I was exaggerating if I told you how many cars I have fixed with idle/mpg/emission/performance issues just by redlining every gear for 10 seconds to get the cylinders as hot as possible. It vaporizes all the soot and deposits off the piston crowns, and can actually solve oil consumption problems by un-sticking piston rings! Subject to the engine being in good condition ie cambelt good etc. For the clean, dont use oven cleaner like other forums have said to do as a cheap alternative, I cant even think where to begin on how stupid and totaly wrong that is lol
Yeah oven cleaner had me a bit dubious. The reason I'm enquiring is apparently my car goes into limp mode if you really push it and the reason is a coked up turbo. Any other reasons it could be? Checked vcds and have no errors. Had a panic moment earlier where I got the oil light when sitting on a slope. Level was ok and as soon as I got on flat it went away. Might check it cold later and top up if needed. It's not leaking and nothings kicking out the exhaust so I'm confused by that.
Check oil level. You could also have a partialy blocked oil pickup strainer, located in the sump, sort of looks like a shower head. As for coked up turbo, if its not a vnt i would ignore the advice about it being coked up. There isnt anything to coke up unless the waste gate cant close properly, which is very rare, and can be the result of water/silicone in the fuel. I would check the boost signal hose that goes to the ecu for cracks/splits/leaking boost as well as the one's that go between the wastegate and control valve etc. If in doubt replace these as they are cheap to buy in meter lengths. If there is any oil in the feed to the ecu, or it is leaking, it wont see the correct boost and will panic. Also check the output of the MAF, Lreg on here knows the correct value you need to see if its working correctly.
As said above, whip the sump off and get the oil pick up cleaned out! or buy a new one. Oil and filter change would be worth it too
Engine cleaner is petrolium based, safe for all types of rubber/silicone and tefflon. Ovan cleaner is acid based, can even eat away alluminium, copper and brass. Not good.
Quick question regarding the cam belt on these cars, is there any special tools needed like older diesels and does the water pump need to be done at the same time or does it still have the older style water pump setup like the petrol EA827 engines?
You need a pin suitably sized for the diesel pump and a locking tool for the camshaft. Water pump doesnt need doing.
Cheers for that, think my friend that works at Audi thought it was newer than it is and got me concerned about the cost. So it's a case of locking things in place then doing the cam belt as you normally would?
Couple of quick questions: Will modifying the airbox in the way you modify the petrol cars give me any kind of benefit? Is it worth me asking a friendly welder to release the precious metals from my CAT?
Cat - absolutley, you wont regret it. All benifits. Airbox - not a huge increase, i have gained more from a bespoke induction kit with a cold air feed and engine bay air seperator. But you have to put up with more diesel noise, and alot of turbo noise on acceleration. But i have grown to loke the noise. If you are not keen then add your own larger cold air feed to the airbox, add an aftermarket panel filter and enjoy slightly better mpg around town.
Modifying the catalyst should improve the way it drives and give better MPG, but make sure you fully understand the emissions regs for your age of car before you start. A drill and a big hole saw should do the job, if the cat is near the end of that section of pipe. Not sure why you'd need a welder.
The welding option would be to simply get my mate to cut it open, remove the insides and weld it shut again. If there's MPG improvement to be had them I'm all over this idea. Might grab a knackered CAT from a scrapped car and modify that then swap it over at my leisure so I don't have to rush the job.
Just a bump for another wee question seeing as you chaps have been so good. Ebay chips for diesel engines, rubbish or do they work?
