Hi Brian i.ve totally stripped the balance shafts with the oil pump but kept the cradle which will be screwed back to the bottom end for some support. Thanks for asking.
Still contemplating on the cam/valve train and uncertain weather i will be using plenium or throttle bodies. That section is still up in the air at the moment.
Cams will be the 'character' of the engine so worth getting right. This is also probably the weakness of the 20v engine, you can't use really aggressive profiles as the cam followers are to small, but it doesn't sound like you are racing, assuming you are using it for fast road and track days then it should be fine and will give more than 'enough', I'm sure. There seem to be lots of profiles and parts available, many in the USA, but most seem to be for forced induction, not N/A. I'm sure you have done your homework though, what are your aims for the engine? Use and power levels? I have a similar problem but have decided to use the FSi head, and due to regs and an older block, so have a similar set of problems. Have spent quite a while looking at the options!
That's the same problem i'm having at the moment. Wont be using a 20v head. Looking at Fsi head. Valve train upgrade cost a arm and two legs. Trying to source inlet manifold to run itb's is a joke. May have to put my other engine upgrade up for sale to fund the uprated head. Mainly fast road since i'm always out to Worthersee or M.I.V.W. The odd track day would be nice too. Just have to weigh up my options
The crank/short block combo isn't the greatest out there for rod ratio. The 95.5mm stroke works well in a tall block, but the extra forces excerted by using a short block will put a limit on your upper rpm. Nice build though. I notice there a chap on eby selling those race bearings. Definately worth it on the rods maybe not so on the mains. A trick they use on main bearing cap bolts is to use 5mm longer cap head 12.9 bolts with headbolt washers. Saves about 100!
I have a brand new inlet manifold for use with throttle bodies for a ALT head. I bought it to replace my homemade effort with on my ALT converted Mk1 prior to selling it. Still have it and for sale if its of interest. Great work on the engine by the way! Also, I have a spare ALT in the garage cheap if you need/want a spare.
At the price them race bearings were going for it was worth it as for the studs i got 2 sets for that 100 quid
Cheers will keep that in mind about the spare ALT as i've also got a spare one too. Thinking of using a Fsi head so the inlet will be of no use. Thanks anyway.
As far as I can tell the FSi head is a much better bet that the 20v. HPR told me Lehmann only did a few 20v's before binning it as soon as the FSi appeared, they never rated the 20v head. Also 20 of something costs more that 16! That said if you only want 240/250bhp then I believe that isn't so difficult with the 20v head.
Now that all rings are in their correct position and rods are locked into place with their circlips it was time for the pistons to find their new home. Rod bearings and rod caps as well as crankshaft have been well lubed before everything is put into place..Line them up.. 1st coat.. 2nd coat.. Now the other side getting ready to be lubed.. All lubed and ready to move into their new home.. Piston away .. 1st piston safely home.. 2 down 2 to go.. All 4 fitted safe and sound
Can you spot the difference?.. This was a big hiccup in my engine build. It's a learning curve for me so i will share with others who decide to go this route.