2-litre 20v engine conversions DIY - where are they?

Chris, you can put me down for a 2 litre 20v.

I've recently put a 1.8t into my car and am now wanting more bhp, so rods, pistons etc are on my list anyway.

Sticking in a 92.8 crank is no big deal to my mind.

Integrated engineering do a nice kit, not shockingly expensive either.

When I get the cash together it will happen.

 

1) slapbladder/James (Mk1 Cabrio) - ? bhp
2) Jordy (quarter mile Scirocco) - 500++ bhp?
3) dubster67 (in build)

 

JNL's is a drag car if I remember correctly, this doesn't really need to worry about low down power and torque. The turbo is where the power is coming from up the revs where it lives it's life. In fact shorter stroke may well hold an advantage in this form for acceleration characteristics.

Everyday driveability may warrant having a 2 litre for area under the power and torque curves before the turbo spools and it will probably help the turbo spool a bit sooner.

But for the average user going 2 litre is going to add alot of money on top of just a rods, turbo and software build and they won't get that much more real power out of it and cost of going 2 litre is offsetting the benefits.

 

is it due to this?

was a cheap power gain for the 8v's 16v's, once you had added a cam and some P+P, which is great for NA engine.

the 1.8t lends it self very easily to turbo upgrades for power, internals required to make it stronger.

 

Because 92.8x83 mm is more fun And also PITA
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2805002-Project-Build-sc2020/page1
This is still work in progress; mine too.

 

The engine in that link is based on an N/A ABA EA827. That is a lot of work to have a 2.0 20vT.
I believe we are taking about increasing the capacity of the EA113 or 06* engine i.e. AGN, AGU,AUM, BAM APX etc. The cranks on these are not the same as older external water pump engine i.e. EA827.

 

Both Eddie.

058 EA827/EA113s with the short nose ABF crank, and also 06* with a long nose TFSI/FSI crank - both up to 2.0 off factory parts bin cranks.

The essence of it being taking a 1.8 OE starting point up to 2-litre, or indeed above. The 92.8mm crank is conspicuous by its absence.

 

So overbored AEB/ADR to 2.0 with ABF/AGG or similar cranks or overbored AUM/AGU/BAM to 2.0 with ALT or FSI/TFSI crankshaft.

In the case of the 06A engine the cost of overboring and fitting custom 82.5mm or greater 20v pistons and finding a crank from a rare ALT or more expensive FSI engine causes owners to choose the 'boost it more' option. This maybe the one of the reasons why they seem few and far between. If built right there certainly will be benefits with a 2.0 20v/T though.

 

Yes

Agree on the point about obtaining ALT/FSI cranks, that must hold back take up. Pity, as they've been around ? 7 years now?

 

JBS stroker kit:
http://www.jbsautodesigns.co.uk/product/932/18t-stroker-kit-20ltr

 

Think the point is making it out of scrap/breaker parts to keep costs down.

 

Yes, entirely!

 

For the 06X block, it doesn't have to be the later FSI / TFSI cranks for a 92.8mm. What is wrong with using the crank from the 2.0 8v engines found in the mk4s, APK for instance? Plenty of the them to be had for peanuts.

 

Ideal, esp for chicken feed, just as long as its a forged crank?

 

But it's good engine to start with. It has right crankshaft with impulse rotor, 92.8mm rods, about ideal rod/stroke ratio ~1.7, +16mm block height compared to 1.8T, can use OEM engine mounts in mk2/mk3's (not quite sure) and B2/B3 4cyl audi's.

 

That is a good point!

Yep block is similar to our european AGG/ABF engine and will have mounting points similar to an ADR, APU or AEB 'north south' applications.

It is a good engine to make a hybrid as you have demonstrated in the link.
Most people in Europe transplant later 06A engines (AGU,AUM, BAM codes) to their MK1 and 2 (A1/A2) though and would not consider removing to fit and external water pump engine for a CC increase.

 

Not really a scrap/breaker option, Wiseco started doing ABF 20v head converison pistons off the shelf, 82.50, 83 and 83.50 bore 21mm pin and +21cc over std domes, with that extra 21cc domes takes a ABF to 2.1 on std crank.

2.1 ABF/20V turbo with a GT28 71R would spool up alot lower down than a 1.9 06*(?) block and the cost wouldn't be much more than a 1.9 20v.
Thnk I've also seen Cometic gaskets do a ABF to 20v conversion head gasket.

Wiseco piston part numbers
KE201M825
KE201M83
KE201M835

 

Post 1 did make this clear.

Cheers for the additional piston info

 

Isn't this also partly a relative difficulty between an ABF turbo and a 20v Turbo? One is a full engine build, whereas the other is a scrapyard engine, stacked gaskets/spacer, and custom manifolds/pipework. Either way you're into custom management or a remap.

Does the 20v head flow any better than the ABF one? I haven't seen any evidence to suggest there's much in it, so YFB, other than pure engineering investigation?

Maybe the pendulum will swing once ABF engines are all 20 years old and getting hard to find, or there aren't any early platform cars left to put them in.