2L 8V turbo shopping list

Good thread , i cant wait to see the final results ......real interesting.

 

any idea what sort of power I can expect from the k03 within safe limits for both engine and turbo keeping in mind that it will be a daily driver.

 

Low compression pistons...

 

going fo the stacked gasket approach, pistons amount to too much spend for this build. Also easier to go back to NA with the gaskets if need be.

 

Probably need to plot on the compressor map to give you an idea. But you'll need the VE and BSFC from your engine to make it accurate. Toyotec could possibly provide this.

 

so many abbreviations but google is my friend

 

Better get used to it. And prepare for a steep learning curve with the MS.

 

Although the stacked gasket approach "works" it makes me cringe. If one can't afford to build the engine properly then can you afford for it to go bang somewhere down the line.

 

And you "cringe" because of what engineering reason or even EA827 experience?

Then all the VR6T "spacer guys" should be "blowing up" and they could not afford to build their 380PS engine "right".

If you could afford to do it "right" why use an 2E/PB 8v with a used 5303 KKK hairdryer in the first place.
If you could demonstrate why stacking MLS gaskets will not work to reduce compression/knock or cannot hold cylinder pressures of over 200psi in this application then yes your opinion is more than valid.

 

Well said

 

What he said

 

on a more serious note Im only going for the stacked gasket approach A because its cheap and B because many others in the 'know' have proved it to be safe for the levels I want to run at.

 

i am reading through this with interest, and wondered if the g60 block can run the S2 dished pistons?

yes start a build thread, and all the abbreviations make it interesting learning.

 

I always hear its not "the right way" And by people who haven't done it. If we could afford to do everything right. I'm sure we wouldn't be in golfs.

 

hmm .............looks like its goin to be a rocky build, everyone one on here has an in-put....
just be sure to ask the questions thats needed to start.

 

my builds are always rocky Nah Im going to take my time with this one and do it right first time.

 

What is the realistic targets in terms of power for this build.... i can only assume it will be conservative, considering the budget its being built on ....so no more than let say 190 bhp to 210 maybe with matching torque???

If this is the case will there be room for improvement ....can and will the engine handle higher peak cylinder pressures (BOOST) to create more power, or will it be at its limits.

 

Being the better 8v designed engine it is easy to reduce compression without stacked gaskets. Just whip rods and pistons out and have the crowns shaved around the perimeter to reduce CR. Or open the bowl to be concentric. I do the reverse of this to boost CR by removing the small 1.5mm raised swish section, then decking the block the 1.5mm or so to increase the CR.
Be prudent to have rods and pistons out anyway to check the big end shells and ring gaps prior to adding boost.
Ain't got no valve pockets modifications to worry about pistons clattering the valves like that "other" engine.

 

Would still cost more that way.

 

I was going to leave the bottom end untouched as it was quite a fresh engine with only around 50k and Ive probably done another 20ish on top. So based on that is it still better to check replace shells? and how much does it cost to get pistons shaved (roughly)