My new mk1 lump is going to going onto ITB's. Its a bit of a mongrel of parts. Toothed wheel behind the crank damper to start to injection and spark. The dizzy is coming out. (less weight, less drag) The 8V oil pump 'tang' needs a drive from the cross shaft. Dizzy hole in the block is bigger than a KR/EG etc block. (tall block 8v size) Looking at reliable VW options before I make stuff to fit. Fitting a 16V splined pump is an option, I know. Anybody removed the dizzy and used the 8V pump? What have you done for a drive? Jon
great thread, just found it too late....; https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...ersions-faq-added-p2-updated-p4.197527/page-3 maybe everything I need to know is in here... Jon
Got a dizzy with a big gear on and the ali ring people sell to convert to the big hole block. Dizzy does the thrust, so the gear can't climb upwards. Oil pump peg is firmly located into the female drive onto the bottom of the cog. It'll work, but its not very elegant Tempted to chop the top 3/4's of the dizzy off and turn up a cap to cover it. (less mass to spin, less redundant hardware) Anybody done this? Its a cheapo fix, I know, but I have no 'stock' of other pieces to get the job done. Anybody, or am I the only one playing with old non 1.8T stuff now? Jon
If I had the knowledge to play with stuff like this, I’d love too but sadly it’s before my time, I know it’s never too late to learn. And I’m sure I’ll have to dabble slightly into it when I built my ABF Turbo but nothing like you
Its simple stuff really, nothing clever, just using parts that are unloved by others, LOL Jon Understand I am a fossil though..
When KAD build the 16v mini engine, still A series, they use a plain shaft instead of the original cam, its chain driven one end and drives the oil pump the other. Sure I talked a few years ago to a geezer at a scrapyard who was getting bits for a herald or vitesse, with homebrew efi and coil packs on original engine, sure he used chopped dizzy to still drive pump, and 36-1 trigger on the bottom pulley. If it wasnt a herald, vitesse etc, it was someone else with old car, I talk to a lot of strangers in scrapyards.
no worse than the VW solution for the 16v which is to drop a shaped lump of metal on top of the gear to stop it lifting up, maybe long term look at sourcing 16v oil pump and kr gear+dizzy blank cap but your solution will do the job just as well
I have the 16V oil pump and a KR blank, but the KR blank is smaller isnt it? Also have a home engineered blank for the big hole but no big gear.... A secondhand big gear from somebody would be useful, but in the meantime it'll stay as a lopped off dizzy Thanks for all your inputs Jon
yes sorry missed it was a tall block, would need the abf stuff then. the kr pump will go but iirc the 2l ones have a wasted section in the shaft which gives clearance so you may find causes issues fitting a kr pump in a 2l this is from memory though. other thing the kr pump is smaller than the 2l ones, but I believe you can change the shaft over from 16v pump to your 2l 8v pump, maybe, possibly. but yeah, no need to spend out what you have will do you fine
Yeah I have wasted stem 16V pumps, think a 30mm impeller will be fine, as solid lifter top end thanks Jonny comments always appreciated Jon
Yr certainly not the only one building proper 8v's Jon...much better than woosh pop bang anyday. Your spot on with the chopped dizzy & shaft route, I've done a couple of them like that when using ignition management, works fine with no issues. Easiest way is to tidy up the top of the remaining dizzy base and tap for an allen grub plug.
Eurospec casting head is the driving force behind this build, my 8V lumps seem to have relatively modest power/torques compared to yours, but they get the job done anyway. And I'm happy with them, which is what matters to me Gotta love an 8V : (mostly) : lighter cheaper easier to build and set-up......LOL Jon
Ah I'm sure you could see almost 200hp from an 1800 too Jon if you really tried! The numbers arnt everything though, as you rightly point out they get the job done miles better with less effort...and cost. I've just done a big valve head...42/35...for an old 1900 bottom end built by a n other VW specialist in thier golden days before the owner sold up and moved to France. It was a re port of the old head and the bigger inlets, plus as much road cam as you'd need (280 degrees), and new inlet and exhaust manifolds...the old ones were dire. On the same 45 Webers re tuned it's really lively on the road...I mean "really" lively!...the owner was in fits of laughter when I took him up the road in it....the numbers do it no justice, it just delivers. It's around 35hp up on what it was...about 165hp at the moment...with the full 170 the spec will make to come once I re do the bottom end next winter and raise the C.R from its current 9.5:1. Your 2ltr should be pretty lively and will no doubt work as intended....long live simplicity!
I ran a 1900 9V on 45's in my mk1 tarmac car 5+ years ago, lovely engine. I (unusually..) bought it rather than built it, from a member on here. BHP numbers were nothing to brag about, but it went very well. Took it to bits for a refresh and it was all nicely built but quite a modest spec. Later, got sold in the car, to another clubgti guy, name escapes me. I'm going to do the initial mapping (myself, obviously) and running on a 270 schrick, before going onto a phase 4 newman or GS6. Reasoning is purely to keep the noise down. (neighbours etc) The ports , combustion chambers, valves on this Eurospec look 'right'. Getting the weber inlet matched up meant breaking through the stud holes and sleeving back to M6, so its a pig to fit, LOL. Getting the uprated valves springs properly (I hope..) fitted took over a week and uses some non VW parts (austin healey!!), some modified, some made from scratch , how many people just fit them to standard top hats, bases and keepers, when they plainly don't measure up.... Note to people doing this for the first time, measure measure measure. If it doesn't fit right, do something about it, don't just bolt it up and hope....Or buy the complete kit with titanium top caps etc. Hillclimber: some more of your techy stuff always goes down well with us.. Will stick some piccies up as it progresses. Jon
I prefer an 1800-1900, 2ltrs are always undervalved I'm affraid, you just have to make the best of what you can, but they make their performance in a more compressed powerband. An 1800/1900 is a sweeter engine. Nah go straight in with a big cam....it'll be just as easy to set up if everything works together. A GS6 is a reasonable cam...I've got a customer small valve head with one on carbs making an honest 200hp...but the phasing isn't as good as possible. A Newman P4 is a good choice for a basic race cam...last year's VW cup outright champ has one fitted in his budget 1900 I did him, makes 180hp on 45 Dellortos and strong torque...148ibft...or it did 4 years ago. Manifolds must break through the stud/bolt holes or they're not big enough...mine break through on 6mm studs, ive never needed to sleeve them though. I'm with you on the valve springs. I've had them in from enthusiastic self builders with std top retainers so badly fitting the wrong springs...perched on rather than in!...it had self adjusting cam lobes...they wore out so fast it got slower race by race much to the owner/builders surprise. The same owner that brought me the engine full of machining swarf for me to fit his new head and cam on...sometimes you just can't help people. I use a hybrid spring set up too...never tried Healey bits but good find. Fitted length is critical for power, reliability and longevity. If only I had more time these days for tech articles...maybe one day...though a little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing to those that don't know how to interpret it, even when they're looking right at it...then try to blame the source for their incompetence. I think 1850 8v's that qualify on the front row of a grid of the strongest competition in their class, then proceed to out run some of the best 2ltr Ford & BMW engines in the UK says alot for the performance potential of a simple ol Golf engine. Look forward to the pics Jon.
